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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I rarely need jumper cables but in the past week had to jump off my daughter's car and a stranger's car in a parking lot. I realize it's something you don't do often, but having to take the engine cover off and separating your cables to use the engine hanger for the negative as it says in the manual, or taking off the plastic cowling and breather tube off so you can get to the negative terminal is ridiculous and plastic parts go flying, especially in the dark and now I've got to get new screw inserts for the breather tube attachment and two anchors that are used for the cowling. It's just needlessly complicated.

Anyway, I'd had enough and fixed it for $7. Took less than five minutes, and now I can easily access a ground point without splitting my cables or removing anything.

Cable from Amazon, 10mm wrench for the battery ground bolt and a couple of zip ties.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K68YC2W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_LdLrCbSCE3K4T
 

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You can literally use any solid metal part of the vehicle ... but nice fix it is cleaner and I like that because then the teeth of the clamps aren't chewing up the metal of the vehicle.
 

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I was jumping them off, not vice versa.

You can literally use any solid metal part of the vehicle ... but nice fix it is cleaner and I like that because then the teeth of the clamps aren't chewing up the metal of the vehicle.
Yeah, I thought about just sanding the paint off some of the bodywork under the hood that the jumper cable would clamp to, but this was cheap and easy enough and I don't have to worry about corrosion.
 

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Great idea. I have never needed a jump or had to give one. Do have a question about attaching positive end of jump cable to positive on battery post. The group 48 battery is configured so that when the terminal clamp is attached to battery there is not enough room for the jumper cable end to clamp over the post and clamp. Have you just attached it to the battery clamp tightener nub that sticks up?
 

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I second Farther's response. For $42 you can get one of these jump starters from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AG2LN9I?pf_rd_p=c2945051-950f-485c-b4df-15aac5223b10&pf_rd_r=2V1KR74E5774MA7X596F

Works great, no risk to vehicle and can be used to charge phones and other devices in the event of power failure. Easily stores in console or glove box. I didn't think something this small would jump start a vehicle but have used mine several times on co-worker's vehicles. Don't have to lug around jumper cables either.
 

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2019 RTL awd, MSM
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Those little jumper packs, at least the better ones, often work BETTER than jumper cables, and take up less space (and probably weigh less). On the flip side, you should charge them every 3-6 months.

Most modern jumper cables are copper clad aluminum (CCA). They don't conduct as well as pure copper (which is very expensive nowadays), and performance drops quickly with longer cable sets. The little jumper packs often have cables less than a foot long, and can deliver pretty good amperage to the jumped vehicle. To be fair, you may need a larger pack designed for diesels if you are trying to start a vehicle with a severely drained battery, but the vast majority of jumps just don't need that much boost.
 

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2021 Radiant Red RTL
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The battery on my 2017 G2 died today after 2.5 years and 12K miles. I had to charge it.

Thankfully, I found the grommet from the plastic cover that fell out. Nice of Honda to place the grounding point on the opposite side of the engine from the battery. The cables on my Noco charger barely reached.

Will head to Honda tomorrow for a replacement!
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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I'll jump on the ditto wagon for using jump starters instead of using the battery on my vehicle to start. Those computers sometimes object to the current draw or whatever and create issues for the donor vehicle.

I carry around a Clore JNC660 in the back of my RL. But lately, I've bought the $50 lithium battery from Costco for my wife and kids and have used them successfully too. Not only are they cheaper, but they weigh a lot less and take up much less space. But I don't know how well they perform if they've been left for an extended period of time in a vehicle in very cold conditions.

I do not jump from the truck battery anymore after getting those jumpstarters. Too much potential for issues. Wasn't so bad in the old days when there weren't computers driving everything. But not today.
 

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2019 RTL awd, MSM
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Antigravity XP-10, starting power w/o boundaries. Pricey, but very useful.
I got the Chlore JNC660 and the Microstart XP-1 for my wife, since she travels a lot and can charge her laptop with the XP-1 if need be. She jumped two large trucks in MN with it a couple weeks ago....the big burly guys driving the trucks were impressed.

I keep a cheap no-name $40 lithium starter pack in my car, but it usually doesn't venture too far from home.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Just curious, but how does that XP-10 ($200) differ from the $50 unit at Costco?

https://www.costco.com/Lithium-Jump...ith-Brush-Metal-Finish.product.100383979.html

https://shop.antigravitybatteries.c...xxZQulGzpgqF5gHWsCqJ0rvdoXzHLN1YaAiaWEALw_wcB

Looks like the XP-10 has greater capacity. Are the differences worth 4x the price? I didn't look very hard at the specs on either one, so may have missed something basic.
I don't know the specifics of either pack, but the XP-10 was made to jump diesels, and i believe comes with a variety of connections for charging other gadgets (the XP-1 does anyway).

Antigravity has built up a quality reputation. I'd say it is probably like buying a Snap-On wrench vs a no-name wrench from your local hardware store. Both will do the job, but you may have a preference depending on the criticality of the need (see my post #17 above).

Others feel free to chime in here.
 
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