Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

Pioneer AVH-4200NEX and Boss 1100RM installation

10K views 27 replies 7 participants last post by  CentexG2 
#1 ·
I installed a Pioneer AVH4200 NEX ,2 DIN, entertainment/Navi radio in my 2006 Honda Ridgeline, then I was told that I would have to purchase a separate sub-woofer to install with this system as my Bose OEM sub-woofer was not connect able/ attachable
Was wondering if anyone has run across this same problem? I wouldnt mind installing a second aftermarket sub-woofer but it just doesnt make good Sence to me since my Bose is one of the best sounding Subs.
Just wondering if anyone found a way to include our built-in OEM Bose Subwooders to these Pioneers aftermarkets
 
#2 ·
I didn't know that our factory sub. was a Bose. If it is, Bose factory systems sometimes use weird circuitry that will not work with other head units. That said, if you unplug the sub and run dedicated wires from your new head unit to a small amp, then from the amp directly to the speaker, there's no reason for the speaker not to work. Just have to bi-pass the Bose circuits.
 
#9 ·
You were right Donuteater, the Sub-woofer behind the rear seat has no identification on its casing and I'm gonna try to leave it like that. The two wires exiting on the outside rear riverside of the box appear to be speaker wires.
I mounted the Boss1100 monoblock amp under the front driver seat ,(ha, like there's a rear driver's seat...only when my wife is back there), and ran the speaker wires to the under dash to rear of my Pioneer AVH4200nex head unit. But with the auto volume remotely box connecting to the AMP, I'm certain I've hooked something up wrong. Pretty much everything else is commonsensically hooked up. Power to battery, ground, and remote , and then speaker, but I'm still not getting the sub-woofer working. I may have to dismount it and ascertain that I have the speaker wires, but one of the wires exiting the Sub has the same bright green stripe that I've seen on back of my head unit. Just gotta run through the wiring again. But the good thing is, I have no hot wires or overheating of AMP.

I wish I could find a tech who's familiar with Hinda G-1s and can walk me thru this.
When I hooked up my AVH420O head unit , it took me 3 weeks to get it right and set it up. Because I found out later that the wiring coming from the Original harness was colored backwards, but I stay firm when expkaining the color coded wiring until I found a tech who researched it for me and called me to tell me I wasn't crazy and since the OEM Pioneer radio was installed in Mexuco, that he found a note that that particular year all those radio harnesses were wired backwards in sequence.
 
#3 ·
Thanks so much. I'm not positive that the OEM Radio installed was a Bose or the Sub-woofer for all that matters, and I'll continue to research that. I do know that the Radio was made/installed originally in Mexico, however. I discovered that when installing the new aftermarket Pioneer radio Model AVH4200nex. about 1 1/2 years ago and couldn't figure out why the wiring was not the same as the instructions called for. I finally found a Pioneer Professional who informed me that there was a note in their instruction booklet that the installers in Mexico had wired the radio BACKWARDS and all wiring on the rear of the harness was opposite? Go figure? Can't wait for Industry to fully return our production back to the Good Old United States. {I digress}.
But I do remember, now that you mentioned it, that I would need an AMP and that was the only thing stopping me from connecting the Sub-Woofer to the aftermarket Pioneer.
I guess my next question would have to be , "Where do I locate my Sub-Woofer in my 2006 Honda Ridgeline". I've already taken apart the underneath seat of the rear driver side rear pax seat and found nothing. And I understand the Sub could be in one of several places? Any ideas?

And thank you so much for returning a response so quickly. I think I lost interest in installing an AMP for the sub-Woofer when I couldn't find the sub-woofer! lol
 
#4 · (Edited)
mecajunboy01, Are you driving a 2006 US market Ridgeline? Are you the same person as Larry Gulliot??
A 2006 US market Ridgeline was made in Canada. Ridgeline production shifted over to Alabama around 2008/2009 (I'm not 100% sure when)

The OEM headunit (non Navi) is made by Pioneer (I dont know where it was manufactured) and as far as I know, Bose has nothing to do with the subwoofer. There is no special circuitry built into the factory sub.The OEM head unit has a built in amplifier for the rear sub which aftermarket head units typically do not have, so you will need a separate amplifier for the factory sub with your new head unit. The factory sub is behind the seat back of the rear passenger seat.

I have no idea what you are referring to about the reversed wiring for your head unit; your headunit should be wired just like every other 2006 Ridgeline with the same trim level as yours.

If you search this forum you can find a number of threads on what people did to keep their factory subwoofer with an aftermarket head unit.
 
#7 ·
Im referring to the wiring from the aftermarket radio connecting to the Factory OEM wiring inside the dash..... I original harness left inside the dash with the 20+plus color coded wire of speakers and other accessories like woofer, etc. We discovered, myself and an intelligent electronics tech with Pioneer Corp, electronics, discovered, after I hooked up a few wires my new aftermarket head unit from Pioneer Corp. , we realized that the color-coded wiring (and numbered on Pioneers chart diagram), was not in the color order that he kept telling me had to be on the right or left of another color coded wire. Do you realize how confusing that can be to an average non -technical person trying to install aftermarket products. That's when the tech told me he read a notation at the bottom of the schematics that told him my radio wire harness was in fact, installed in reverse in the harness nest.

Anywho, this is where I'm at now at this stage of the game

Just took my rear seat out of the truck, and im looking at the factory OEM sub-woofer, that im trying to incorporate back into my sound system . (The sub-woofer was disengaged for two years because the Pioneer AVH4200NEX amp built into the radio, could not handle the factory Honda sub-woofer and I hasnt looked into purchasing a new AMP to boost the aftermarket Pioneer head unit until today, 2 years later.
Question: I have the Boss1100 AMP, I'd like to hook up to the factory OEM subwoffer AND run the wire from output from Amp to the head unit to regain sound from OEM subwoffer.....
Where is best place to mount new BOSS 1100 AMP? Should I put it with the subwoofer, if it fits behind the seat or should I mount it under the driver or passenger seat for ease of access?
Will this BOSS 1100 suffice IF all wiring is done properly?
 
#5 ·
I own a 2006 Honda Ridgeline. I installed a aftermarket Pioneer AVH4200NEX head unit , 2 DIN, in the truck . That head unit doesn't allow for us to continue using our original factory Sub-woofer, so we lose at least 60% of the quality sound without a sub. I was told by a trusted poster here that he installed very much the same way and wanted to keep his factory sub-woofer, so he also installed an AMP with his aftermarket head unit.
It is my understanding that he connected the factory sub-woofer to the amps Input then connected the AMP's output to the speakers at the back of the head unit. Would anyone be familiar with this type of transition? Is this effective and will it work......If I hook everything up properly???

HELP
 
#8 · (Edited)
I installed a aftermarket Pioneer AVH4200NEX head unit , 2 DIN, in the truck . That head unit doesn't allow for us to continue using our original factory Sub-woofer, ......

........ Would anyone be familiar with this type of transition? Is this effective and will it work......If I hook everything up properly???
While the HU you installed doesn't include an amp for subwoofer power, it does have complete provisions for adding an external amp to power and control a sub:
Games Technology Pc game Screenshot Electronic device

The thumbnail:
  1. TURN YOUR HU VOLUME TO MINIMUM before you power it off and disconnect your vehicle battery to do the following
  2. Connect the above pictured RCA OUT from the HU to the low-level RCA IN on your added sub power amp
  3. Connect the speaker OUT from your added sub power amp to the connections on your subwoofer (the wires to the OE sub)
  4. Connect power (with appropriate fusing) and turn-on leads to the added sub power amp
  5. Set gains and filters on the added sub power amp
  6. Reconnect vehicle battery
  7. Turn-on the HU, carefully and slowly ramp-up the volume with music playing, adjust gains and filters according to what you hear
See the instructions on page 59 of the AVH-4200NEX Owner's Manual: "Connections > Power amp (sold separately)"

See the instructions for the power amp you buy

If you're not absolutely comfortable setting it up, seek a local installer's professional help to avoid damaging anything.

BTW, IF "via 1100 amp" in your post title happens to mean the BOSS R1100M (400+ WRMS, @ 4 Ohms) amp and you are using that to drive the OE sub, there's a very good chance of causing OE sub damage unless you seriously limit the amp output via its gain controls (even though that's not the real purpose of gain controls), IMO.

Note that the amp used in the example linked by @eurban was rated at 150 WRMS @ 4 Ohms to drive the OE sub. If you over-drive the OE sub, you will cause it to fail. Installing an amp with a bit of extra overhead power is fine, but installing an amp that's far more powerful than the expected speaker capability can invite unnecessary complication, IMO.

Good Luck.
 
#14 ·
Honda apparently changed the tweeters late in Ridgeline production and I have my doubts as to the accuracy of your info on the tweeters themselves being different between the trims. The tweeters in my 06 RTS produced almost no sound and when removed for examination looked and felt (weighed almost nothing) exceedingly cheap. Hence the long and popular thread on "pimping" your factory sound by swapping the tweeters with aftermarket. I have never seen any evidence of this forum that there was any trim deviation to the tweeters themselves.
On my 14 Sport, the tweeter's produced ample sound and when examined are a poly cone type with some real heft to them. It must of been a production change late in the GenI life cycle. Here's a pic of the tweeter that came out of the 14 when I was upgrading the sound system a while ago.
Finger Auto part Wheel
 
#15 · (Edited)
Honda apparently changed the tweeters late in Ridgeline production and I have my doubts as to the accuracy of your info on the tweeters themselves being different between the trims. The tweeters in my 06 RTS produced almost no sound and when removed for examination looked and felt (weighed almost nothing) exceedingly cheap. Hence the long and popular thread on "pimping" your factory sound by swapping the tweeters with aftermarket. I have never seen any evidence of this forum that there was any trim deviation to the tweeters themselves.
On my 14 Sport, the tweeter's produced ample sound and when examined are a poly cone type with some real heft to them. It must of been a production change late in the GenI life cycle. Here's a pic of the tweeter that came out of the 14 when I was upgrading the sound system a while ago. View attachment 400675
The "premium" tweeter (part number 39120-SJC-A11) was used in 2006-2014 RTS, RTL, and SE. It was also used in the 2007-2011 CR-V EX-L.

The "standard" tweeter (part number 39120-SJC-A41) was used in the 2006-2014 RT, RTX, and Sport.

I can find no evidence that Honda ever changed tweeter designs on the 2006-2014 Ridgeline. Neither of these part numbers appears to supersede any other.

EDIT: It looks like this has been discussed before...

 
#21 ·
Hello techs. I know some of you are well versed in troubleshooting aftermarket Head Units. This is a RIdgeline 2006 RTS. and I was attempting to install the Boss R1100M Monoblock AMP in this truck and still keep my OEM sub-woofer. When I attempted to connect the RCA wires to the rear of the Pioneer Head unit, and reinstall the head unit I noted that there is no power to the unit whatsoever....HUM? Woowithme. I've checked the radio fuse inside the truck and it doesn't show blown but i did note a bit of dark film on the outside posts as if to say they may have gotten hot or over heated but the fuse inside the plastic appears intact. I'm going to purchase a pack of 10 amp fuses and replace it tomorrow and I hope that's the problem. I did run back through all the wiring
as to check the multiple connections as I did add on an antennae relay, a SiriusXM Relay, and a few other accessories.
Question: Are there any other fuses that might affect the radio or is this the only one I need to focus on? The only next thing I will do is REWIrE the entire radio over again to ascertain that I have all good connections, but I shouldn't have to do that since I did it properly the first time.
 
#22 ·
To my knowledge, the factory sub is powered by the factory head unit.
I’m a little confused by your post but thought I should mention: RCA jacks only provide line-level signal (non-powered).

When you say you have no power, are you referring to the head unit or the amp?

If you had power to your head unit before, then something must have come undone with your red, black, or blue wires within the head unit pigtail.
I would start by checking those connections and repairing as needed.

Is the head unit new?

If no power to amp: ensure you have a solid connection of the red wire either direct to the battery with the “remote” wire (usually blue) connected to the blue wire behind the head unit, or wired to an open fuse (a little more complex).
Ensure your ground wire (black) has a good, clean ground (scrape any paint away if creating a new ground to the body).

I hope this helps - good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#23 ·
Thanks so much, Taptalk, and thanks for the quick response...I'm always amazed by you guys who seem to be here every day, day in and day out.
Yes, the m going to start with the fuses in truck as I've already checked head unit fuse.
I do have and want to try to connect my original Factory sub-woofer to my new Boss R1100M amp and fairly new Head unit.
I'm hoping I didnt blow the head unit as it's barely 2 yrs old but the fuse in rear of head unit was not blown so I'm hoping all iui a good.
Thanks again. I think after I replace both fuses, I will try a 2nd bypass line to power to see if that gives power to head unit. That should tell me if the wire harnesses with added accessories are causing the disconnect.
Question. I'm hoping the connections to power (ignition-key), like the SiriusXM or the steering wheel are not stopping the power from engaging?
 
#24 ·
Do you have a multimeter? Check for power to the radio power with the ignition turned on. You can also check continuity across the fuse with the multimeter.

I'm not sure why you have multiple threads on this subject? The background info from your other threads would help people to understand your situation . . . .
 
#25 ·
This question references the rear fan on an aftermarket Pioneer avh4200nex head unit. I noted the rear fan on the back of the head unit was inop. Is this normal when first coming on, or should the fan begin operating as soon as or soon after the access key is turned on and vehicle is running? I did note that the read head unit seemed hot but I'm sure some of that is normal? This is on my 2006 Honda Ridgeline RTS Truck
 
#26 ·
I wanted to thank those who bared with me through my attempt to install a BOSS R1100M Amp and for the Gentleman who referred me to my manual for the Aftermarket avh4200nex I have installed with that R1100M BOSS amp..
A simple testing of fuses, (and verify more than once you have the correct fuse ).
Fuses in a G1 interior accessory fuse casing run top to bottom 1-11, 12-22, 23-32, depending on your options or G-1 type. On my truck #5 is my Radio accessory using a 7.5 fuse..
I just wanted to personally thank you professionals, and techs who come here regularly to give clear, concise and professional advise on all matters of Honda Ridgelines and other Vehicles.. there's something about these vehicles ,G-1 series, that far out-lives most other vehicles on the road today. But more importantly, it's a vehicle of little maintenance when preventative maintenance is maintained regularly. I have already saved tens of thousands of dollars on this vehicle in its 14 and running.
Thank you all
 
#27 ·
Well, I'm back already. I think my radio drank too many Coronas.
I have that Pooneer AVH 4200 Nex Head unit in my 2006 Honda Ridge. I connected the BOSS R1100M monoblock AMP and finally got all working great with my original OEM factory Subwoofer ..love the BASS sound.
Now, the Hff head unit clicks off after a 5 minute playing time.
I did note that someone said not to run the RCA Cables together next to the Power source wire as it might cause problems, but I also noted the. Cooling fan motor in the rear of the unit doesn't work.

I'm ordering a new fan motor now but was wondering if anyone has experienced this same problem.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Two just FYI's ...
  • If the AVH-4200NEX is shutting down due to overheat it should be giving you a "TEMP" warning on the display (see page 67>68 in manual re: Error messages > TEMP > Product overheat). The fan does not operate continuously, it's thermostat (internal heat sensor) controlled. It's possible that IF the fan is not cycling correctly the problem is not with the fan motor but with the internal heat sensor(s) or associated fan-control logic.
  • Running RCA's parallel adjacent to a power cable over a long distance may induce noise in the signal carried by the RCA cable(s); it will not have any effect on the power cable / power continuity.
I'm not perfectly clear on whether it's the AVH-4200NEX itself that's shutting down after ~5 minutes or the signal from the music source (e.g. smartphone? External USB flashdrive?) that's being interrupted?

You might test to see if the 'shutdown' occurs even when just listening to the radio on the AVH-4200NEX (an 'internal' music source rather than an 'external' music source). If it still does the shutdown thing then yeah, the problem is likely inside the AVH-4200NEX.

IF the problem is occurring only when using an external music source connected to the AVH-4200NEX via USB cable, I'd focus the troubleshooting on the USB cable itself - trying different / higher quality brands of USB cable. Unfortunately many off-brands can suffer cable-related issues. Same might apply to the flashdrive itself if the problem is when playing music from an external USB flashdrive (the drive itself could be overheating, I've had that happen with some of the very tiny (talking physical size, not GB capacity) 'thumbnail' flash drives). Edit for clarity / disclosure - my comments re: USB cables / drives is based on experience with other HU's, not the AVH-4200NEX specifically.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top