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I don’t like using de-ionized water in or around anything metal unless I have some kind of inhibitor in it. Antifreeze has inhibitors in it. :) So does Red Line Water Wetter. As I’m thinking and typing about it, both of the above have _some_ form of surfactants in them. That’s how those products help ‘wet’ the metal better, which provides better heat transfer and boil-over protection. My point? I think I’d use the anti-freeze rather than straight de-i water as a flushing agent.

Your procedure seems like it’s working out well for you. That’s great!
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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Well somehow this thread is fixed, although the page count is off, and images are still missing on the previous page...

As for my recommendation of Distilled Water it was only intended as a less expensive replacement to "FLUSH" the system, I would have probably used it and some "FLUSH" type of additive, rather than a $20 gallon of Honda Type 2. But since you've already done it just continue forward until you get the ATF out of the system.

BECAUSE THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED




Moderator Note: Post is for test purposes only.
 

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^^ Truly think you got very lucky here. You've taken all the proper steps to fix the problem and I applaud your efforts. Hoping it holds up for the long-term!
 

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You really got to try to get the oil out of the engine, and its going to be a lot of coolant if youre not usinf DI.

I changed a head hasket on my gf's Civic and got oil in the cooling jackets when i pulled the head. I tried my best to drain it and did roughly 9 drain and fills with DI and coolant flush... there was still residual oil. To the point where when we sold it the radiator cap rubber was brittle from the heat cycles on just that tiny amount of oil. I cant imagine what was going on with the hoses and water pump o ring. Bottomline is that you need surfactant.

Maybe what you can do is drain the coolant and let the oil and coolant separate. Then use a turkey baster to pull the oil off and rerun that coolant with a dash of new coolant and continue until the oil is low enough it doesnt separate. Then use the surfactant.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Hi yup it is tricky,
It is seperated and it sticks to and floats to top. I just opened cap again and skimmed again, and sqeezed hose to let it flow into bottle and then dump and dawn the bottle out refill new coolant..
While I agree not good to have in system dumping only shows pure coolant and it stcks and floats so dumping a waste imo.

Not sure how destructive oil vs transmission fluid is to all hoses etc..im sure not good but will continue to monitor and skim from bottle and cap.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Update...
After beating on daily and utilizing the ‘let engine heat cycle’ and dump overflow bottle and clean with dawn each time it appears to be working. Oil floats to top radiator cap pushes coolant in and out of overflow bottle and oil is trapped in coolant bottle as it draws from bottom when cooling. Opening cap visibly much less oil in radiator.

Then today smell coolant and see it small droplets all over front of engine and coolant bottle same level. Wth. No leaks i can see.

Well if any doubt tranny oil will swell gaskets it will as it cycled the oily floated coolant let the cap rubber piss coolant out the side. Luckily seen it early. New cap later 15 bucks at dealer, and ordered a second amazon 13 bucks for when oil not visible to replace.. will update..check out swelling..
 

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Update...
Then today smell coolant and see it small droplets all over front of engine and coolant bottle same level. Wth. No leaks i can see.
If you spilled any coolant the smell will persist for a while as it burns off.

I mark my reservoir and the temp I marked it at after a night of letting my vehicle sit out. Helps me keep track.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
If you spilled any coolant the smell will persist for a while as it burns off.

I mark my reservoir and the temp I marked it at after a night of letting my vehicle sit out. Helps me keep track.
Agreed ,
Mine sprayed out from cap gasket so apparently when there is no seal there it will p coolant and not change reservoir due to leak. Working on power locks right now so i cannot continue testing. Btw wtf on the power lock actuator..im posting there
 
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