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The factory door speakers, are full range, no known frequencies or filters are used, when you turn them up, they will not be able to keep up playing high or low frequencies without a selected good crossover point.

The only option to make them sound good without abuse or sounding bad at high levels would be these 2, and still a power amplifier will be needed for better sound.


1. Get an external sound processor so that can low pass and high pass, and bi amplify the tweeters and the door speakers ( this means losing the rear channels) and many hours of tuning to find the sweet spot and blend the door drivers with the sub.

2. Simply get a component set with passive crossovers, this will help but having just the factory HU without a high pass filter, it may still lack in performance without an amp.


A cheaper option, with no speaker replacement is get an amplifier that offers high an low pass combined for each channel, and hope the limited choices in frequency points it offers, will allow both tweeters and midbass to play clean and loud without distortion. This option still takes the rear channels since tweeters and midbass will have their own channel. Still an effective active filtering system, no need for new speakers but and amp is needed to cross them properly.

And then you may want better sound after that, and that is when, better speakers, sound deadening more power and a better sub will help.

The bottom line, this last option, adding a qualified amp is the chepeast and you will have to be willing to lose the rear speakers.

Good luck
 

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So the sub hits nice on lows. I think the speakers mid bass just sucks and now that my tweeters and lows are good, it makes my mids sound like ass. Did you guys have this experience? Do door speakers make that much of a difference?
In regards to your current system, you've likely arrived at its limit. To squeeze more from it will require additional investment in one or several areas.

IMO: your biggest bang for the buck is a new receiver. For approximately 2X the cost of a decent amp, an up-to-date, feature rich, software adjustable head could be had.

With the receiver of your choice installed, you'd have:
- active sub control (level & crossover freq/slope) making full use of your exiting sub amp
- active HP control over front & rear outputs
- use of internal amp in new receiver to power doors & JBLs - no second amp required until you decide its needed later w/new door speakers
- multiband EQ
- BT HF and/or audio streaming
- high quality DAC with lots of flexibility for control and connection of outboard file servers.
- aux analog input option
- improved over all audio quality compared to OEM electronics and functions
- near future proof features and connectivity
- less hassle than installing a 2nd amp
- less hassle than installing door speakers or cabin noise reduction

You are destined to replace the OEM head, if for no other reason than age. By replacing it, you'll experience the gain of new features/control and leave open the option to make use of additional amp(s), speakers and fine tuning by cabin noise reduction - which are significantly larger projects.

Its an easy job, accomplished in a leisurely afternoon. A near instantaneous/future proof/no brainer upgrade.
 

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Options I gave earlier were based on keeping the factory receiver.

Keeping the factory receiver and improve SQ, would mean adding an external sound processor, adding a DSP means adding another amplifier.

I don't think that's an better option than changing the receiver, unless you want to spend over $500 just to keep the factory unit.

Changing the receiver will offer more control for existing and future upgrades, besides BT, USB and DVD playback if the unit offers that, if not a cheaper unit can be purchased, I would just make sure it has at least 6 channels, to have dedicated subwoofer channels, and more flexibility to control and adjust the sub sound quality.
 

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OK so I ended up getting an SSL SMCM200 which is the same amp as the OP just in a slightly different shell. Hooked everything up same as OP and the amp turns on fine but I'm getting no sub output. I have an 08 6 disk no navi. Put in a jensen vx4022 last year. I noticed that the sub wires ran away from the big harness to its own plug, snipped the plug off (stock unit is never going back in) and connected the white wire from the amp to the yellow/black sub wire and black/white from amp to lt. Green\red sub wire. Running rcas from amp to a rca y cable thats attached to the sub out on the back of the jensen. I can't figure out what's wrong. Sub worked fine when I pulled the stock HU out. Any Ideas?
 

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Installed the BossCE200M amp with my new Kenwood HU.
Awesome pics! After much research, I'm also going with a Kenwood head unit, a sub amp & stock sub.

Where did you mount the Boss amp? Any photos of location (or an install thread)?

Thanks!
 

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I stuck my amp above/behing the HU with velcro, on the flat surface. The Boss will often pop when first turned on with some Head Units. Not a problem for me but some were bothered by this.
 

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The Boss will often pop when first turned on with some Head Units. Not a problem for me but some were bothered by this.
I did a little research on the issue and I might have just the thing to fix it in my electronics junk box.

Around 1998 I had a '95 Ford Explorer that I'd added a homegrown mp3 audio system to. It was an old Dell laptop running Linux strapped in a milk crate in the cargo area, with a serial I/R receiver for a remote and a 4 line EL display in the dashboard.

If I remember right you hook these up to the ACC line, they sense 12v when you turn the key, wait 3-5 seconds for the power to stabilize then close the large relay to provide 12v to your device, close the small relay for a second to simulate pressing the laptops power button, and the laptop boots.

When you shut the car off, they send a "UPS on battery/powerfail" signal over the serial port (which causes Linux to shut the laptop down), waits 30 seconds, then cuts power via the large relay.

How to Fix Amp / Speaker Turn On / Turn Off Pop | Car Audio Advice
 

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I see your 2018 update.. was just wondering if you had any issues with it being a 4 ohm amp and from what I was reading the stock sub was looking for 2?
Thanks
Scott
 

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Just a note of thanks for this thread and the updates. I followed this example (but with a Pioneer HU), installed the Boss amp, and successfully have a working system that integrates Bluetooth, etc.
Mille Grazie!
 

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I did this last week and am so pleased with he results.. the only thing I've noticed is that sub sometimes cuts on and off at times? I'm not sure why but dont have my sub presets set at highest limit either and set amp levels etc just like OP said ...


Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
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