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Discussion Starter #1
Today I started with the wrong screwdriver and the darned thread lock made it near impossible to get that little screw out of my key fob to replace the battery. I finally got it out, and I sure as heck don't want to tighten this old stripped screw back in there.

Does anyone know the part number, or specs, or a good place to buy a replacement?

I don't think that there are too many hardware stores that sell this size screw that's not prepackaged, requiring the package to be opened to even try the screw.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1424530766.788039.jpg
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1424530803.920450.jpg

Gotta love it when this is the biggest problem your 10 year old Ridgeline gives you. :D
 

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Well, this is not the "right" answer.... and hopefully someone can provide info on that screw (what size it is).
But this is what I did just last week. I ALSO got that screw head stripped. I couldn't get it out to save my life, even with good screw driver engagement & vice grips on the screw driver for rotational leverage; 10 years & good locktite I guess.... I eventually stripped that phillips head.... in the end I had to drill it out with 1/16" bit. That wasn't too bad, since I first piloted a center-punch-like starter spot with a pointy dremmel tool bit. Once I drilled it out, I cleared out remaining thread bits with a pick (nut pick or similar tool).
Then I went to Ace Hardware to see what kind of small screws they had. YES, they do have single screws w/o having to buy a package. BUT, they didn't have metrics that small..... you might try an electronics shop for that, but I struck out with that search.
Anyway I ended up buying a #3 machine screw x 1/2" long. I had to cut the length to size, and I had to use a dremmel barrel grinder to sand down the head. It was a phillips flat head in stainless steel, but the head diameter was larger than would settle into the fob (note how small diameter the original head is. So I just held the screw in vice (I just hand held with vice grips), and after a few turns against the sanding cylinder in dremmel tool, I was down to a size that fit (just larger than the phillips grooves themselves. A little lock tight (I used a lot given the threads were damaged a bit from removing the old screw).... and the new screw actually snugged up in there real nice. Held fast, and looks great (is shiny stainless instead of black, but no foul there). I DID use the sander to profile the screw head a bit after it was installed as well.... the surface of the fob is rounded, and this countersunk flathead did not seat down low enough to be below flush without some finish grinding. Now it follows the profile of the plastic.
I'm sure the original threads were metric (maybe 2.5mm??), but the #3 screw worked for me.... if all else fails, you can pick one up & see if with won't engage w/o issue for you as well.
BUT.... if I still had good threads, I'd be getting the proper metric screw.... try 2.5mm & see if that's not it. The screws were only like 26 cents a piece...

If I could have just bought a case, I would have, but of course our 'case' only comes with a new key, which you then have to get laser cut.... So repair was my more economical choice. Good Luck! :)


and one more inspiring image from Carlsbad, Ca.... just a couple of days ago:

:act024::act024::act024::act024::act024:
 

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Well, this is not the "right" answer.... and hopefully someone can provide info on that screw (what size it is).
But this is what I did just last week. I ALSO got that screw head stripped. I couldn't get it out to save my life, even with good screw driver engagement & vice grips on the screw driver for rotational leverage; 10 years & good locktite I guess.... I eventually stripped that phillips head.... in the end I had to drill it out with 1/16" bit. That wasn't too bad, since I first piloted a center-punch-like starter spot with a pointy dremmel tool bit. Once I drilled it out, I cleared out remaining thread bits with a pick (nut pick or similar tool).
Then I went to Ace Hardware to see what kind of small screws they had. YES, they do have single screws w/o having to buy a package. BUT, they didn't have metrics that small..... you might try an electronics shop for that, but I struck out with that search.
Anyway I ended up buying a #3 machine screw x 1/2" long. I had to cut the length to size, and I had to use a dremmel barrel grinder to sand down the head. It was a phillips flat head in stainless steel, but the head diameter was larger than would settle into the fob (note how small diameter the original head is. So I just held the screw in vice (I just hand held with vice grips), and after a few turns against the sanding cylinder in dremmel tool, I was down to a size that fit (just larger than the phillips grooves themselves. A little lock tight (I used a lot given the threads were damaged a bit from removing the old screw).... and the new screw actually snugged up in there real nice. Held fast, and looks great (is shiny stainless instead of black, but no foul there). I DID use the sander to profile the screw head a bit after it was installed as well.... the surface of the fob is rounded, and this countersunk flathead did not seat down low enough to be below flush without some finish grinding. Now it follows the profile of the plastic.
I'm sure the original threads were metric (maybe 2.5mm??), but the #3 screw worked for me.... if all else fails, you can pick one up & see if with won't engage w/o issue for you as well.
BUT.... if I still had good threads, I'd be getting the proper metric screw.... try 2.5mm & see if that's not it. The screws were only like 26 cents a piece...

If I could have just bought a case, I would have, but of course our 'case' only comes with a new key, which you then have to get laser cut.... So repair was my more economical choice.
E Bay... just the "Case"
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Just go to your Honda dealer and they can source the tiny screw. They're about $2 each. I had similar issues on one key several years ago when I needed to replace the battery. I recently threw away the bag with the screw p/n on it. Sorry.
 

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You could also do what I did.

I bought a cheap eyeglass repair kit at Wallyworld. The kit contained several screws of different sizes. I found the one that fit, and solved the problem.
 

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Brilliant idea!
 

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.... or a step down from my repair & adopt some Elmers & a toothpick. Yee Haw! You might be a Redneck if ....... :act024:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry for my delayed return. (For some reason I'm not even subscribed to the threads I start.)

I was also considering the eyeglass screw solution too, and I'm really glad to hear that has worked for others. I think I've got a few of those kits around somewhere and will give it a try. I will also ask the dealer next time I'm in there for an oil change, hopefully get the part number and/or specs and report back.
 

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I had this issue before, too, with a buddy's key that I was fixing for him. The screw stripped and I had to drill it out. What a nightmare! I ended up finding a blank shell of a key from eBay and the dealership was able to cut it for free. Being that you were able to get the screw out, I would first see if the dealership can get you a new screw. Otherwise, you could buy the cheapest blank key you can find on eBay and simply swap out the screw. As a tip, both of my wife's keys died within days of each other after ten years of use. Pretty good longevity! Over a weekend, I laid both keys on my workbench with the screw facing up. I put a small drop of penetrating oil (liquid wrench) on the head of the screw and let it sit for several hours. Using a mini screwdriver, I was pretty easily able to back the screws out with no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah. I think I've had to change at least three of our four batteries (two 2006 RL and two 2007 pilot). The first was done at the dealer at the counter and I saw how easy it was and said "screw that". I can do these myself!! Little did I know I would end up stripping a screw.

The 2007 Pilot and 2006 RL keys are just ever-so-slightly different, most notably having a higher white-er lens on the light next to the lock button for the 2007 pilot. The button emblems are worn off my 2006 RL keys too. Otherwise, I mix them up all the time.
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1424730079.370925.jpg
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1424730090.704567.jpg

Anyway, I bought batteries and hung them on the key hook until another one went dead. It finally happened the other day. It seems it's time to buy more 1616 batteries... And a few screws.
 

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35116-SDA-A11 SCREW, FLAT

Honda's suggested retail is $2.18 each
H&A to the rescue again..... If I knew I could get one of these from the dealer, I would not have gone to all the repair trouble that I did (but I might have needed oversized anyway after my drilling!? :) ) I didn't see a break-down with screw on-line so I didn't bother even going to the dealer to find out.

Anyway, thanks H&A for being so great at providing us all with timely/accurate info.
 

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I bet if you call a semi-local dealer, they'll send you one in a first class envelope. maybe........ part itself was only $1.53 at Bernardiparts.... so it can't cost them too much. You might get lucky if you just ask.
 

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I replaced mine with a better option. I went to local hobby shop where they sell, repair have parts for RC cars and such. Got a 2mm x 6 socket head cap screw.
Extra length goes through the key metal and into the plastic underneath (may have to bore out area ...where screw will go into fob front piece after through metal key a bit... with tip of small phillips screwdriver) presses down into plastic back of fob where old screw countersink is and works great. Stronger hold than original, no more stripping and a better than OEM hold. Works perfect!

See attached image.
 

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