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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so my plan is to do a complete re-haul of the soundsystem in my RL. I'm planning on putting a 7" lilli touchscreen and a computer underneath one of the seats. I'm planning on running that to a kicker 5 channel amp behind the back seat, 2 10" kicker subs under the seats, and 4 new door speakers. I will have to dynamat, of course...


Now my problem- crutchfield says 6.5" kicker door speakers will not fit, I really want a pair of the KS600's, which, at 65 watt RMS max would pair well with the 70 RMS put out by the amp... The price is right too, at $65, and I've been able to compare speakers running at best buy, and liked the kicker speakers more than sony, rockford, etc.

I want to match all my speakers, sub and amp pretty well, and I would like them to all be kicker brand.

Has anybody fit these speakers in their RL? I know crutchfield sends speaker adapters, but I haven't installed new speakers before, so I'm a little unsure.

Any advice on the install would be appreciated as well, I will probably try and do it over a couple days at Christmas...

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Additionally, I have the baseline model RL, does anyone know if these have tweeters in the dash also? I have been reading, and just about everyone who redoes their speakers installs tweeters also.

Is the stereo going to sound terrible without components in the front? Does anyone know if these kicker components, Kicker 07DS6502, will fit also?

Any recommendations on kicker components, also? Again, I want them to match within 10 watts RMS higher or lower.

Thanks
 

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Crutchfield lies. 6.5" drivers will fit in the doors. 7" as well, and I know two guys with 8" drivers but they did have to choose wisely and cut metal.

Think about putting tweeters in the sail panels. You'll have to run wire through the door but with an amp you should be doing that anyway.

I'm not a fan of Kicker components, so I can't help you with your choices. If I had to choose a 6.5" component set with 70wpc to play with I'd go with JBL or Rainbow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What about kicker amps and subs? are they decent or worth the price? I don't have a lot of experience with car audio, just what I've been reading online and reviews are always skewed, either people upset with problems or people who have only had one setup and can't compare...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Additionally, from what I've been reading, it's the depth of the speaker that is the problem, it might impact the window when rolled down. What depth will fit? I have found the depth of the kicker speakers, kicker says their fit depth is just under 2". Do you happen to know the depth of those speakers that had no issues with the window?

Thanks
 

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What about kicker amps and subs? are they decent or worth the price? I don't have a lot of experience with car audio, just what I've been reading online and reviews are always skewed, either people upset with problems or people who have only had one setup and can't compare...
Kicker amps and subs are fine.

Check my install thread. It's probably more than you're after but it will help you visualize things. You should do your searches here in the Mobile Electronics thread. There are dozens of installation threads with pictures, all are Ridgeline specific.
 

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Additionally, from what I've been reading, it's the depth of the speaker that is the problem, it might impact the window when rolled down. What depth will fit? I have found the depth of the kicker speakers, kicker says their fit depth is just under 2". Do you happen to know the depth of those speakers that had no issues with the window?

Thanks
It's more than just the depth, it's the size, shape, and depth of the magnet. You can't go by just the speaker depth because you shouldn't be mounting the speaker to the door metal. You should use an MDF spacer, 1/2" or better, to provide rigidity and to space the speaker out for clearance. You'll have to trim the door panel.

It sounds like you're a bit over your head. You might want to have a shop so the installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I won't have a problem getting it done, I just don't want to buy speakers and then have them be way too big and either impact the window or the plastic door paneling on the inside. Historically, I will spend about 50 times as long planning and researching mods than it actually takes to do them. I would prefer to do it myself, I just need to get my hands in it and do it already. I haven't taken my door panel off yet to get a good idea of how much space I have (pictures just don't give a good idea of the depth)

I can get MDF cut, I suppose I will have to wait till I get the speakers to figure out what thickness I need. How much space behind the magnet should I leave? How much space is there to work with between the speaker baffle and the inside of the plastic door panel?

Thanks
 

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I see virtually no reason to match door speaker brand to subwoofer or amplifier brand. That is mostly a vanity issue. Some people think it is cool to say "all my stuff is from JL Audio."

Sonically there is no advantage to choosing Kicker subs and Kicker door speakers.

I am not against doing that - just saying that it is completely unimportant.

There is no real reason to match RMS ratings either. The biggest mistake is underpowered amplifiers. I would have no fear of a using speakers rated for 50W with 100W amplifier. If your door speakers run through a high pass filter (80-100 Hz) they will play louder because because they don't have to deal with low bass.

Door speakers in the Ridgeline don't have a depth problem as much as Crutchfield thinks. You can easily mount the speakers with a 3/4 inch spacer. The bigger issue is the size of the factory speaker cutout. It is an unusualy shape, and some speaker magnets and/or speaker frames won't fit without cutting metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, I don't have any problem trimming metal, so typically, what width should an mdf spacer have? If I'm going to mount a 6.5" speaker with 3/4" thick mdf, inner diameter of the spacer should be 6.5-6.7" and outer diameter should be around 7.5"?

Yeah, I just happened to like the kicker speakers more, was at BB a couple weeks ago and liked the sound, with a couple subs I won't need a lot of low from the speakers, and between the close RMS, sound, and price, I figured they would fit my requirements pretty well.

The amp has a built-in adjustable high-pass.

Ideally, I want my speakers to run 110-60% of the amp RMS.

Thanks for the help. When I get my stuff over christmas I will be sure to write it up here.
 

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Alright, I don't have any problem trimming metal, so typically, what width should an mdf spacer have? If I'm going to mount a 6.5" speaker with 3/4" thick mdf, inner diameter of the spacer should be 6.5-6.7" and outer diameter should be around 7.5"?

Yeah, I just happened to like the kicker speakers more, was at BB a couple weeks ago and liked the sound, with a couple subs I won't need a lot of low from the speakers, and between the close RMS, sound, and price, I figured they would fit my requirements pretty well.

The amp has a built-in adjustable high-pass.

Ideally, I want my speakers to run 110-60% of the amp RMS.

Thanks for the help. When I get my stuff over christmas I will be sure to write it up here.
There is nothing wrong with preferring the Kicker door speakers. You listened to them and liked them. That's good enough for me. I just don't think aiming for an all-Kicker system is meaningful.

As for spacers, they should have an inner diameter that matches the mounting hole spec for the driver. The outer diameter can be a bit larger than the speaker frame. 3/4 inch MDF works very well. You could also use a sturdy plywood. I suggest cutting them with a router if you have a circle cutting jig. A jigsaw with a circle cutting attachment is probably next best. Cut the outside diameter first, then the inner. I recommend painting them because MDF absorbs moisture and will eventually deteriorate if unprotected. Doors are a high moisture environment.
 

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There is no need to cut metal if the mounting hole diameter of the driver is less 5 5/8 of an inch, that will be the limit for the ridge front door. The window clearance is 2 3/8 inches, most speakers components in the $200.00 range retail should fit with a 1/2 or 3/4 inch spacer, anything under that price that will not fit it is possible they exist but why bother. Usually the expensive speakers have larger magnets that may need extra work to make the fit.
 
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