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Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
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4,318 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last September, I was able to place an order for a set of KW V3 coilover shocks and after waiting for almost 2 months, I got the massive package from Germany on October 26th. I placed the order through AutoAnything.com, who is one of the authorized dealers (you need an authorized dealer for your warranty) for around $2400 before taxes. [ Authorized dealers can be found here >> https://www.kwsuspensions.com/dealersearch ]

Note: Anytime someone modifies their engine with non OEM accessory, they assume the risk of voiding their vehicle's mfgr's warranty and possibly damaging the vehicle if proper care is not taken. By following these suggestions, you are at your own risk as I do not assume responsibility of your install.

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 6 to 7 hours (took me around 5.5 hrs)

Parts needed & replaced
  • Front adjustable camber bolts AC Delco 45K18039 - $10.20 x 2.Qty
  • Front Left LCA Mevoteech GS601014 - $64.99 (SummitRacing.com)
  • Front Right LCA Mevotech GS601015 - $58.99 (SummitRacing.com)
  • Front Strut Mount Monroe 907983 - $28.79 x 2.Qty (RockAuto)
  • KW V3 Coilover shocks – $2550.06 (AutoAnything.com)
  • Rear DR End link ACDelco 45G1045 - $17.82 (Amazon)
  • Rear PA End link ACDelco 45G1987 - $12.73 (Amazon)
  • Rear Strut Mount – Monroe 902044 – $28.79 x 2.Qty (Rock Auto)
  • Rear Upper Control Arms-Adjustable Centric 622.40095 – $59.96 x 2.Qty (CariD.com)

Some of the tools you may need
  • ½” and 3/8” socket wrench
  • ½” Torque wrench
  • Assorted screw bits
  • Assorted extensions
  • Assorted screwdrivers
  • Assorted sockets
  • Assorted swivel joints
  • Assorted wrenches/ratcheting wrenches
  • Ball joint separator
  • Bench vice/vice
  • Crowfoot wrench sockets
  • Digital caliper
  • Digital inclinometer (to determine OEM camber and rear upper control arm angle)
  • Electrical tape
  • Hammer (optional)
  • Impact wrench (optional)
  • Pry bar (assorted)
  • Punch (center punch or a dull screwdriver)
  • Rust Penetrating spray
  • Transmission stand (optional)
  • Zip ties

Access to a two or a four post lift would save your back and reduce the project time, however it is not necessary. Luckily my colleague has one in her house and I was able to use it. One person can do this project, if you are mechanically inclined. Not having pneumatic tools or power tools should not be a deterrent. I used my hands for 99% of the work and used a cordless drill to unscrew or screw in bolts and nuts. I highly recommend liberal use of rust penetrant and using a breaker bar to unseat fasteners.

IMPORTANT: ensure that you have access to Honda Factory Service Manual for your Ridgeline. Read and fully understand KW’s instruction manuals.


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Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
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4,318 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Assembly – Coilover

The initial step is to assemble the coilovers. Following all the steps in the KW instruction booklet is crucial; so follow them. Before starting anything, and you have opened the box, always take a quick picture of how things look so you have reference of how things looked.

Since these are adjustable, you can spin the locking collars all the way down, place the droop spring, then the cup, then the actual spring and then install the strut mounts (front and rear). Ensure that the coilovers are secure on the vice and use the crowfoot wrench sockets to torque the nut (picture below). Once everything is torqued, then you can move forward with the setup.


IMG_20191114_232729_Bokeh.jpg IMG_20191114_215647.jpg IMG_20191114_215711.jpg


Setup

This is where you will setup your ride height, compression and dampening. The coilover is adjustable from 1.4” to 2.6” (35.56mm to 66.04mm) of ride height. However, the coilover’s minimum and maximum is based on the ‘remaining thread measurement’ that is detailed in the install sheets. The front is 30mm to 60mm while the rear is 25mm to 50mm. This is calculated from the bottom of the locking collar to the last thread on the coilover body (picture below).

Maybe hard to visualize, but the minimum setting on the coilover gets you the lowest drop while the maximum setting on the coilover gets you the minimum drop. At the minimum drop setting, the droop spring is fully compressed. The main purpose of this spring is to keep the main spring from bouncing around and get unseated when the coilover is lowered to the max and the shock absorber is fully extended in its travel.

I dropped my car 1.4” on all four corners and thus my fronts are set to 60mm and rears are at 50mm.

Once the preferred ride height is setup, now you can move on to setting the compression and rebound setting. I left it at the KW recommended setting, after cycling all the adjusters from min to max. Once the compression and rebound settings are set to your preference, I used electrical tape to tape off the adjuster on the front coilovers to prevent dust from accumulating. The rear has a slip-on sleeve and I used a large zip tie to secure the collar in place. This is me just being extra safe

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Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
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4,318 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Removing old suspension components

First and foremost, remove all the wheels and using the digital inclinometer and using the rotor friction surface as a reference surface record the angle. I would recommend taking pictures of each corner with the meter’s display.

IMG_20191116_164227.jpg IMG_20191116_164311.jpg


Using the factory service manual, remove all the suspension components you want to replace. If replacing the front lower control arm, I recommend doing that before anything. Once replaced, do not torque them yet, just get them to be wrench snug. Ensure you spray generous amount of liquid penetrant on all fasteners, front and rear, and let them soak for at least 20min.


For the front struts:

Remove the old sway bar end links, brake line anchor on the strut, and remove the strut. To remove the strut, loosen the two bolts on the knuckle and then remove the three on the strut mount. Then proceed to remove the strut. Ensure that you properly support the lower control arm and the knuckle assembly so the flexible brake line does not get damaged.

Replace the new KW V3s, secure the top three nut (socket snug so its not too loose) , socket snug up the knuckle bolts (use new ones), torque down sway bar end link, and torque down the brake hose anchor. Use the inclinometer to adjust the angle of the rotor and secure the knuckle bolts by torqueing them down.

NOTE: We will come to the torqueing part of the three nuts on the top hat soon.

IMG_20191116_190556.jpg IMG_20191116_190604.jpg


For the rear struts:

Remove the upper control arm balljoint bolt and dislodge the upper control arm from the knuckle. Then reinsert the ball joint back in the knuckle and finger tighten the nut back onto the balljoint ensuring that it is securing the balljoint to the knuckle.

On the lower control arms, remove the bolts from the rear knuckle assembly, the lower bolt of the strut and the two bolts on the top that secure the strut mount. Also remove one end of the rear sway bar end link. Push down on the lower control arm, while you grab and pull down the strut assembly to get the strut mount clear the frame and pull the strut assembly out. Insert the KW assembly in and secure with new bolts and torque them to factory specs.

Remove the upper control arm balljoint bolt and dislodge the upper control arm from the knuckle. DO NOT loosen or remove the bolt on the subframe side. Using the inclinometer, measure the free angle of the upper control arm.
Remove the upper control arm and replace it with the new adjustable upper control arm with the same free angle. Secure every bolt and torque them to spec.
Use the inclinometer to adjust the angle of the rotor to OEM. Use the adjuster on the upper control arm.

Double check your work for installation, install your wheels and ensure they are fully torqued down. Gently lower the truck and torque the front top mount to spec.

Get the truck aligned to factory or to your desired suspension settings. Double check torque on all hardware after the first 100 miles of driving.

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Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
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4,318 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Updated Post #3 as I inadvertently left our some crucial steps while copying and pasting from my notes. Yikes!
 

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Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
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4,318 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Love the detail, @smufguy ! How does it ride?
I will be creating a separate thread on the experience, but in short, it rides rather well. Since the spring and the shocks are designed to work together, you wont find the ride to be bouncy or 'springy'. However, rough roads are not going to be your friend.
 
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