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Discussion Starter #1
This happens periodically to my truck. Normally, the truck decelerates nicely whenever I let off the gas pedal. However, once in a while when I let off the gas pedal the truck is very slow to decelerate until I press the brake pedal. It acts like the transmission has disengaged and I'm just free wheeling and not getting any engine braking like I'm used to having. Sometimes it has acted that way for 60 miles and sometimes for 300 miles before it goes back to normal deceleration. Lately I've driven 400+ miles and it hasn't "reset" itself...yet.

Let me caveat something before you guys send me a reminder about filling up the gas tank. I know NOT to top off the gas tank at all. In fact, I make it a point to only fill it up to 7/8 maximum as I've heard of cases of ruining the gas recirculation vapor canister if you overfill the tank (up to the lip of the gas filler neck).

I'm thinking about disconnecting the fuse for the ECU for 5 minutes and then reinsert it to reset the ECU to its original values. It could be the ECU stored some "bad" values and isn't running like it should. Then again, this only happened right after the gas companies switched over to the spring/summer gas blends, so I'm wondering if that did have something to do with it.

My gas mileage is around 19 MPG overall and I usually get 22 MPG driving on the highways and in the country (not hot roding it either). That reminds me. Once in a while when I do kick down the throttle hard, shortly thereafter the truck goes into "coast" mode for a few miles and then readjusts back to its normal deceleration mode. Weird, huh?

Any suggestions/thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 

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OK, first things first.
I have to remind you not to top the gas tank.

Sorry, you asked for it, temptation was too much.
What in the world has topping the gas tank to do with deceleration?

There's few much more knowledgeable on transmissions, than I am, here, that may pitch in, but I am sorta safely assuming that infamous Honda Grade Logic algorithm simply disengages. Or, should she have locking differential, that disengages.

I am sorta envious though. I am so much used to hypermiling in my Camry Hybrid, and that is based on free rolling. This is something I lack a lot in RL - totally unable to free roll under momentum.

Not that I really helped you. But I'd do same - reset ECM. Do it overnight. Also, they say to remove battery cables and touch them together, to remove any residual electricity stored in the system. Or, blow horn after cables were removed.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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I can tell you from personal experience that the RL can take approximately 3.5 gallons after the first shut-off of the fuel handle. There is a designed in air-space for the vapor recovery system to work. (Yes, I learned that AFTER I packed the tank for quite a while).

But packing the tank was the only way I had to verify the fuel level was consistent when I was running an mpg test of 87 octane pure gas. <Shrug>

That was several years ago and no issues from packing the tank have arisen. Even now, I add one extra gallon after the first shutoff. (Just can't seem to help myself.) ;)

I would not worry about filling it up to the first shut-off of the fueling handle.

I sure did enjoy getting 400+ miles to a tank of gas ... back in the day. ;)

Regarding your tranny question, that's hard to say. I think koz pretty much nailed it with the reference to Honda's Grade Logic system. OTOH, what is the maintenance history on your RL? How does the tranny fluid look and smell? Nice red color? Does it smell burnt at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Checked transmission fluid and it is red and doesn't smell burnt. Will take it to Honda dealership for them to change transmission, engine, transfer and differential case oils/fluids as a just-in-case measure.

Checked the throttle cables and nothing seems to be binding; throttle plate doesn't feel like it is sticking, either. Not sure what else to do...
 

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Consider DIY, it will save you lots of of money.

That aside, I have been under the impression that 'Grade-Logic' is partly 'adaptive'. That is, it does not always come into play when you take your foot off the gas, but if you follow this with periodic jabs of braking (like when descending a mountain) it starts working. Maybe it's just my imagination.
 
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