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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone else have issues with LEDs for the daytime running lights? I put LEDs in today, and now they won't turn on. Normal culprit fuses were ok. Turn on the truck, parking break off, put it in gear... nothing. Any ideas? Even if one was bad, it wouldn't keep them both off, would it? Are these Christmas lights??

Anyone with any ideas, please throw them at me. I need som brilliance, and it ain't coming from me...

Thanks in advance.
 

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What MY is your RL? Pics for 09-12'
Relay and fuses come to mind. Is your relay a 4 or 5 pin?
.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, I realize this question broadcasts my ignorance, but when you ask "What MY is your RL?", define "MY". You lost me on that one....

I've checked several fuses, but no relays. Are the relays in that illustration INSIDE the dash? So I need to disassemble the dash to check them?

Honestly, I've never changed a relay. This is a new one for me. New LEDs really blow relays? The stock bulbs worked just fine...
 

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MY=model year
Yes they can. Relays are nothing more than a resistor/induction coil or induction coil/diode most of the time.
It's just a 4 pin block that pulls out just like a fuse.
Yes it should be under the dash on the left side.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are you saying that you switched back to stock bulbs and everything works?
No. Let me run through it in more detail:

I have a 2011 Ridgeline.
First I replaced the driver's side running light (I have previously replaced the fog lights with LEDs, and they are fantastic), and started the truck, put it in gear to turn the lights on. They came on, nice, bright new Driver's Side and everything. I loved it. Then I flipped over to the passenger side, switched out the bulb, and went and started the truck up again. Nothing. Neither light came on. I went and checked the second light, re-seated it, and tried to restart it again. Still no lights.

Checked the fuses. None blown.

And that's where I am. What's next? Put the original bulbs back? Rip the dash apart to get to the relays? I really didn't think switching out bulbs for LEDs would cause this much mayhem...
 

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Ok, I would try removing the last led you installed and test again. If nothing, then check for voltage at the connector.
You could even replace both DRL w/ originals and see if they work.
Are the LED's you purchased for the ridge?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, they are made to fit specifically in the Running Light socket, which is different than the Fog Lights.
I'll need to do more testing tomorrow, with the sun...
 

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First off to both of you, why don't you fill out your profile, with your YMM, and I can tell CBR's next question is going to be "I DON'T KNOW WHAT YMM IS?", just like when Skelley asked for MY. Why do you ask, several posts in this thread and I'd bet 5-10% of all posts in the entire ROC, revolve around attempting to determine, "where" someone is coming from, thank you Skelley for atleast providing "WV", and what country, again with Skelley we know that is USA. But I'd guess he has a Y=2006-08, M=Ridgeline, and have no clue whether it's a M=RT, RTS, RTX, or RTL. YMM=Year, Make, Model. CBR it's also helpful if you provide your location, why, well specific to this topic only Canadian RL's included DRL's until 2009, so if you had a MY 06-08 with them in the US, we would know it's an aftermarket kit or a conversion to a Canadian DRL's. But if you want to be clever, abbreviations and nicknames are fine. RANT OVER

Now back to the topic at hand, CBR, install your incandescent bulbs in one or both DRL sockets, that will confirm the LED bulbs didn't short anything out or blow fuses or damage relays. My guess, since the first LED worked with an incandescent installed that is all that is necessary to confirm Fuses/Relays are good. Then reinstall the offending LED, check for directionality, it does matter on LED bulbs, maybe even swap the LED's right to left to see if the 2nd is shorted out. Lastly if all that seems OK, but it's still not working with both LED's installed, my best guess is the LED's are not meeting the load requirements of the relay, at that point replacing or rebuilding the offending relay is the issue.

Getting to the Relay does not require "tearing the dash apart", although I guess that may work, I have no suggested methods to do that. Taking the drivers seat out would help, but disconnect the battery so you don't set off the airbag in the seat back. Otherwise get limber, cause your head goes between the "dead pedal" left foot rest and the break pedal, shoulders on the floor mat, and hips on the drivers seat, feet about on the seat back or wherever you can to get comfortable

I know the flasher Relay has issues with LED bulbs, and there is a workaround for that on here for the cost of a cup of coffee, also site sponsor Diode Dynamics, sells a relay for the flasher issue for like $60.

Anyways, that's the approximate order I'd troubleshoot this in, YMMV...
 

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Yes, with the new forum layout everyone should update profiles to help make things easier.
DRL should be a easy trouble shoot since it's only mentioned in the FSM a total of 20 times if I recall.
I'm thinking if he pulls the last led that he installed and goes back to a known good state that the led could be defective.
Either way it should be a easy trouble shoot.

mak.....cheer up....lol
 

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Skelley,
I'm cheer'd up, damn new format website doesn't show the type of Vehicle on the page next to your name in each of your posts.

Burned us all, seems both of you have them filled out.

Hope you can both accept my apologies for the above rant.

Carry On :)
 

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All good bud and yeah the new format will take some getting use to.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
do you have them in correctly? led's have polarity, regular lamps do not....
I've run into that issue with LEDs, yeah. But I don't think that's the issue here. The running lights are in a 90 degree boot, and have the release tab on one side. I don't think it's something that can be installed backwards.

But... I'll probably check that tomorrow, because now it will be stuck in my head like a thorn...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK... Switched out the passenger LED with the stock bulb, and both it and the Driver side LED worked. So I switched the passenger side with a different LED, but no light... It's as if the two LEDs at once don't work. And thats very odd... Anyone have suggestions? Please?
 

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....

Now back to the topic at hand, CBR, install your incandescent bulbs in one or both DRL sockets, that will confirm the LED bulbs didn't short anything out or blow fuses or damage relays. My guess, since the first LED worked with an incandescent installed that is all that is necessary to confirm Fuses/Relays are good. Then reinstall the offending LED, check for directionality, it does matter on LED bulbs, maybe even swap the LED's right to left to see if the 2nd is shorted out. Lastly if all that seems OK, but it's still not working with both LED's installed, my best guess is the LED's are not meeting the load requirements of the relay, at that point replacing or rebuilding the offending relay is the issue.

Getting to the Relay does not require "tearing the dash apart", although I guess that may work, I have no suggested methods to do that. Taking the drivers seat out would help, but disconnect the battery so you don't set off the airbag in the seat back. Otherwise get limber, cause your head goes between the "dead pedal" left foot rest and the break pedal, shoulders on the floor mat, and hips on the drivers seat, feet about on the seat back or wherever you can to get comfortable

I know the flasher Relay has issues with LED bulbs, and there is a workaround for that on here for the cost of a cup of coffee, also site sponsor Diode Dynamics, sells a relay for the flasher issue for like $60.

Anyways, that's the approximate order I'd troubleshoot this in, YMMV...
Not enough load, which was what I said earlier. Not sure how else to explain it? Maybe an EE or some Engineer or Technical type has something to add
 

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The factory DRL's are wired in series with a voltage drop of 6VDC each across each one. The LED's are (I bet) 12VDC each; hence not enough voltage to swich the diode on.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
The factory DRL's are wired in series with a voltage drop of 6VDC each across each one. The LED's are (I bet) 12VDC each; hence not enough voltage to swich the diode on.
That makes sense. Can I do anything to remedy that? Or can I simply not use LED running bulbs?

Are you saying that the LED bulbs are wired to draw MORE than the line is rated for? Or less? It would be a terrible irony (and shame) if 'lower draw' LEDs are having problems because they want more juice than the line can handle... I sure hope there's a way to overcome this issue...
 

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The only work around I am aware of involves a relay and load resistors. It is discussed on this forum somewhere with wiring diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How frustrating. I just want brighter, cleaner, less yellow bulbs in my running lights. I love the light quality and temperature of LEDs (I've replaced all of my interior lights with LEDs), and figured it would be a simple switch. Apparently not... Unless someone has a line on LEDs rated for the 6v line that our running lights use? Anyone? Bueller?

Barring that, what about other light options? Are there other bulb that are brighter and 'bluer' than the stock bulbs?
 
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