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The poster on a door near the Honda Parts department near me says oil filters are $9.00. Actual price was $18.00 including tax & a freebee crush washer. Some here in the forum claim the A02 filter to just be average, so why not try a different one? For example, I run a $9.95 Valvoline canister filter (I buy from Ford!) in my car rather than the GM/Chev $22.00 filter. Here are a couple of choices I found available for my Ridgeline that I welcome comments on:
Bosch 72226WS
ACDelco PF2057
MotorCraft FL816
Fram PH7317

I’m also finding the so-called crush washer puzzling. Aluminum or steel, the washer neither crushes or seals the oil pan. To me it looks like just a spacer so the oil pan bolt doesn’t go in too far. Plus the oil pan bolt doesn’t get torqued enough to damage or “crush” it. Why not just re-use it? Why steel over aluminum or vice-versa?
Thoughts?
 

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I get the Honda A04 (Japan not China) on eBay - about $6 each with shipping if you buy a dozen. 2 -Honda's 3 oil changes a year each = 2 years of filters. - I bought a bag of crush washers (about 50) for $8.00 with free shipping - (I bought 2 bags and have about 60 left.
I bought 24 A01 filters in 2009, they are all gone. Wish they still made A01 filters - A04 are close.
They say that the S2000 filters fit - they are larger in diameter, I have not tried them - afraid that there is not enough clearance - the gasket and threads are the same.
 

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My personal thinking is that all the brand name filters are ok for use on the Ridgeline.

I don't understand the reasoning behind not replacing the sealing washer at every oil change with a Honda recommended aluminum washer, they are very cheap and require very little more labor to replace. I still have aluminum sealing washers leftover from a bag of washers purchased online from H&A Honda around 2007.

I'm also sure this topic has been discussed ad nauseam in other threads.
 

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I used to work at Honda dealers. Parts dept. And have seen quite a few squashed oil drain seals. At one point I had a key ring with broken seals on them. One of them was extremely thin because it had been used over and over. One was very thin and had split and it fell out on the customers driveway. Lucky for him. So yes they do squash. Have also seen a few oil pans replaced because the owner did not see the use for the crush washer and kept tightening the plug because of a leak. And then got that sick feeling in their gut that something bad just happened.

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I have used generic aluminum washers for the drain bolt before I switched to the valve. I have never had any leaks using the Amazon purchased washers. However, I strongly advocate changing them at every oil change.
As far as filters, there are plenty of threads to read about and get lost in.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Switch to the Fumoto valve and simply don't be concerned with replacing sealing washers on the oil pan. Ever. Not that it's any big deal to replace them.

I can't remember the last sealing washer I replaced on the trans drain or fill bolt, the transfer assembly drain or fill bolt, or the rear diff drain or fill bolt. No leaks, ever. And yes, I have a bag of sealing washers, but never think to get them out when I'm doing the service and choose not to climb out from underneath just to get a fresh washer. So pure laziness on my part. 🤷‍♂️

The only reason I can think that the aluminum washers are being crushed into oblivion are due to over torqueing the bolts.
 

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Amazon.com: Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer – 14mm Crush Washer Oil Drain Plug Gasket Replacement for Honda - OEM 94109-14000 Fits Civic Accord CRV Pilot Odyssey Motorcycle and More – Pack of 20 by Automajor : Automotive

Cheap enough to not have to reuse the old ones.

MicroGard Select Oil Filter MSL57356 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com) $6.50 O'reillys states their filters are made by Wix.

Haven't tried it yet, the picture show it to at least have the proper O-ring type seal like the factory ones.

I tried a NAPA Platinum filter, (had the typical square cut seal) it leaked!
 

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The O.E. crush washer IS a seal, not a spacer. 9 out of 10 times you're ok reusing it. I have seen them leak after reuse, also. The (new) aluminum crushes to both sides of the mating surface. It gets reformed. It's possible the reformed shape of the used washer/seal doesn't seat correctly, & leaks. I've seen it happen. I've also had them come it with the seal smashed out wider than the drain bolt with no leaks. So... You do what you want, so will I.
As for filters, there are plenty of good brands. I like Wix, (premium) Purolator, Bosch, Mobil 1, etc.
 

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For the last 30 years I have been changing oil every 5,000 miles. At that interval, I don't mind much what kind of filter is used. I have Fumoto drains on my last 2 Ridgelines so I NEVER use crush washers. What do I know, since I have only accumulated about 500,000 engine trouble free miles?
 

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For the last 30 years I have been changing oil every 5,000 miles. At that interval, I don't mind much what kind of filter is used. I have Fumoto drains on my last 2 Ridgelines so I NEVER use crush washers. What do I know, since I have only accumulated about 500,000 engine trouble free miles?
I agree with the sentiment that doing it at the proper interval makes the type of filter less important. But because you have had 500k trouble free miles doesn't mean that is the best way. I could say I replace the battery in my vehicle every year and over 20 years I have never had a dead battery. While that would work, it is not cost effective or good for the environment. You very well could have changed the oil every 7500 miles and been in the same position, but you would have the cost of 33 oil changes in your pocket also.

I am in the camp of change it when the maintenance minder says and use quality products. Honda engineers have spent most likely hundreds or thousands of hours figuring out this algorithm. FWIW, my truck has ~36k miles and has had 5 oil changes thus far.
 

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2020 RTL-E in pacific pewter metallic
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When I purchased this 2020 I informed my friend, who sold this new one, that I had never used the MM on my old one when I wrecked it at 314,000 miles. I have my own "maintenance minder" on paper, that is broken up in 5,000 intervals. He told me to keep on using the paper one that I had used previously. As long as I'm the only driver it is pretty easy to keep up with.

I learned the 5,000 mile interval for maintenance about 50 years ago and long before there were electronic gizmos to tell us when to do this or that. That plan has served me well for over 50 years now. In the last 60 years of driving and about 3 million miles, I have hardly any breakdowns and no vehicles that have ever needed to be towed because of breakdown.
 

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Fair enough, it is your truck, I am not telling you how to maintain it for sure. Just that you could very well have followed the maintenance minder and still had the same outcome plus quite a bit of money. But it is your money and your truck.
 

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Yep, The aircraft that I fly get the same kind of treatment. I am very careful about flying with others in the aircraft. MAINTENACE is number one and $ can't be shaved and still fly a safe aircraft. For me it's not about the money.
 

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Sigh, shaking my head. The Maintenance Minder is a tool. A shop using their own schedule is a tool. A list on the computer is a tool. A notebook is a tool. I challenge anybody here to prove beyond any doubt that using, or not using, any one of these tools will alter the life of an engine significantly, appreciably, or even just noticeably? Arguing that any particular one of these tools is absolutely right and the others are definitively wrong is just plain st..................silly!

On to if you feel the need to replace the crush washer every time, go ahead. If you want to reuse the crush washer, go ahead. If it starts to no longer seal you may want to consider replacing it.

Common sense?

Bill
 

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Each time this comes up I feel sad for anyone who uses drain washers

Each time I turn 5,000 miles I vacuum out 5 quarts of oil and replace, change oil filter

Each time I turn 10,000 miles I vacuum out 3 quarts transmission fluid and fill through the dipstick hole

Each time I turn 20,000 miles I vacuum out through the level plug both differentials on my Ridgeline or just the rear differential on my S2000, and top up, and vacuum out and refill brake and clutch reservoirs on all my vehicles for the last 50 years.

works for me as I can read an odometer on any vehicle even not knowing it’s maintenance history
 

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I quit removing the bolt and sealing washer ever since I started vacuuming the oil out thru the dipstick. That being said, I don't think I have ever replaced the washer on any car I ever owned.
 

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I quit removing the bolt and sealing washer ever since I started vacuuming the oil out thru the dipstick. That being said, I don't think I have ever replaced the washer on any car I ever owned.
Can you explain your procedure and what tools (vacuum) you use?

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Can you explain your procedure and what tools (vacuum) you use?

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Mityvac 7400 - https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-07400-Automotive-Accessories/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=sr_1_1

Join two tubes, stick the smaller one down thru the dipstick tube until it hits the oil pan. Start the siphon process with a few pumps, go get the new oil and maybe a cold beverage, come back and give it a few more pumps to finish off what's left in the pan, and you're done. Holds the oil until I can either paint it on wood projects or dump it at my local auto parts store.
 

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Holds the oil until I can either paint it on wood projects...
Just so you know, waste oil is considered carcinogenic and should be disposed of properly. There is a phrase in federal regulations (RCRA subtitle C if memory serves me) and I paraphrase it here: "Use constituting disposal." In layman's terms, it means illegal disposal of hazardous waste.
 
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