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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a 2007 RT with 103,000 miles. I had all the fluids changed, timing belt, water pump, and tensioner replaced, valves adjusted, and replaced the oversize tires that were installed. I would still have a vibration going down the road. It turns out that I need to have the front axles replaced. There is a 2 inch lift kit installed on the truck. My guess is that this lift kit and the oversize wheels are what caused the axle problems. Will the lift kit by itself be enough to cause future axle failures or will the removal of the oversize tires help the new axles to not have problems? Thanks.
 

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Removing the tires would help decrease the angle in which the axles have to change in order to get to the tire assembly. I would guess it could decrease it as much as an inch.

Just so you know, it's not a common issue to have axle problems with the lifts and tires on these trucks (that have been installed correctly and mounted balanced correctly), could be something else contributing to the issue like maybe a torn boot that leaked out all the grease or maybe a poor alignment.

Having larger tires does add more load to the overall equation since you are adding more unsprung weight to the truck, which will wear components a tad bit more than with a stock setup.
 

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45k on my lift 130k on truck. No problems at all. I'm thinking it's the install or some drive on some bad roads.
 

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Tires only affect ride height, not actual axle angle and travel.

I would personally remove the lift if you don't need the extra ground clearance. And with stock size tires...it looks weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So does a 2 inch lift kit actually give me 2 additional inches of ground clearance or does it just lift the body up of the chassis 2inches so larger tires can be installed and any increase in ground clearance just comes from the larger tires? I'm not sure that I understand the concept of those 2 inch spacers at the end of the struts.
 

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So does a 2 inch lift kit actually give me 2 additional inches of ground clearance or does it just lift the body up of the chassis 2inches so larger tires can be installed and any increase in ground clearance just comes from the larger tires? I'm not sure that I understand the concept of those 2 inch spacers at the end of the struts.
It technically gives you 2 inches of suspension lift. Which in turn give you ground clearance and larger tires would give you extra clearance as well. A body lift is completely different, that just gives you the illusion of a lift and can install larger tires because the body becomes farther from the frame, Ridgelines do not have a frame that is separate from the body.

They space the strut farther away from the vehicle to give you lift and still keep your factory ride.
 

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98,000 miles on my lift, no problems. A friend of mine has 230,000 on his and no issues with the lifts. We still have regular wear like brakes, batteries, tires ect but nothing anyone else would have on a stock setup. I see more issues on stock suspension setup then lifted. Ha Ha. I think its all on how you take care of your ride or neglect it.
 

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I recently bought a 2007 RT with 103,000 miles. I had all the fluids changed, timing belt, water pump, and tensioner replaced, valves adjusted, and replaced the oversize tires that were installed. I would still have a vibration going down the road. It turns out that I need to have the front axles replaced. There is a 2 inch lift kit installed on the truck. My guess is that this lift kit and the oversize wheels are what caused the axle problems. Will the lift kit by itself be enough to cause future axle failures or will the removal of the oversize tires help the new axles to not have problems? Thanks.
What did you replace the tires with. Did this also include wheels. Need to no old size and what you replaced them with. Who did the work. Old and new size, brand, wheel and tire. What lift was installed. Did it get an alignment. Whats the offset of the wheel that was replaced. At 103,000 miles it could be many things just dont jump to the conclusion its the lift. Many have replaced front axles without a lift at that milage. Tires and offset wheels to me are the biggest thing that gives any lift or leveling kit the most problems. Where only takin 1.5 to 2.0 inches on a RL. So to me the lift on anything major is out. Ive read many issues here on none lifted RLs suspension issues that Ive never had. Knock on wood but just tellin the truth with my RL.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The old tires were Nitto Terra Grappler ATs. I think they were 265 70 17. They were the ones I've seen mentioned on this forum as the biggest ones you can fit on the RL. I replaced them with Firestone Destination AT. 245 65 17. The factory wheels are still installed. I don't know anything about the offset. I had them installed at the Honda dealership because they matched a much lower price from a local tire shop. They performed alignment after install. The ride improved only some but not much. The new tires are much much quieter. I don't know what kind of lift is installed, but now you have me considering leaving it installed for the better ground clearance. The old tires were in pretty bad shape and the RL was out of alignment so it is plausible that those things caused the axles to fail instead of the lift.
 

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When the alignment was done did Honda know about the lift, the specs are different. I dont think this would have much to do with your problem but you will get different tire wear, you better rotate at least every oil change. Id try the new cvs before getting rid of the lift just yet. You can do that anytime. Thats just my 2 cents. I would also go with Honda cvs (new or rebuilt) vs aftermarket. Just because of what others have told me or I have read.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn't tell Honda about the lift. I'm not sure if they saw it or not. i will make sure I tell them them about for the alignment after the axle replacement. How is the alignment different?
 

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OK, I'm not a lift kit person, but if the Alignment Tech didn't notice the Lift Kit, I wouldn't want them aligning my vehicle. I'd find a reputable alignment shop and have them do a full 4 wheel/3 axis alignment (I believe that is the correct terminology)
 
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P.s. Alignment specs are no different with or without lift. If you had perfect alignment before the lift....You should have almost near perfect alignment after the lift. The toe might need adjustment but everything else should be within spec. Atleast my truck was.

My bet is maybe you have aftermarket axles on there now? They are known to vibrate. Or the axles were run with a torn boot for to long which could have messed the cv's up...

It is kinda hard to see a lift if your under the vehicle...you cant even see the spacer from the side on the front cause the strut mount is far up under the fender. The rear is kinda noticeable.

I think ridges with 265/65/17 tires. are the perfect setup.
 

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P.s. Alignment specs are no different with or without lift.
B.S. you change things down there it will cost you in the longer run meaning tire wear. What lift do you have. You might want to call Truxx and hear what they have to say. Pay for what you get in lifts. Truxxs at least give you specs and front links but most look at cheap price. I disagree but am open for more your thoughts.
 

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B.S. you change things down there it will cost you in the longer run meaning tire wear. What lift do you have. You might want to call Truxx and hear what they have to say. Pay for what you get in lifts. Truxxs at least give you specs and front links but most look at cheap price. I disagree but am open for more your thoughts.
Now I'm confused on what you mean by the specs are different? Lift or not.... the camber/ toe/ caster "specified range" is still the same.... they do change from stock once you install the lift but that's why you get an alignment to bring the settings back. Anytime you do any suspension work it changes. For reference... You could be -.01 degree CAMBER stock....after lift you could be -.04 camber...So when they align it they put it back to -.01. Camber is technically non-adjustable on the ridgeline. But loosening the bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle and pushing it in or out can change camber very little.

The specified range of camber/toe/caster is no different with or without a lift. Aftermarket companies will recommend going to a just negative camber like -.25 or so since the suspension is technically farther down in its stroke, so angle changes are a bit greater on regular driving. but to get that adjustment, adjustable camber bolts will be needed. I have since put camber bolts on mine for stability reasons. I wanted a smidge of negative for driving the windy mountain road I drive

And p.s. the lifts are no different. they are exactly the same products. Just different badging. Truxx or fat bobs.(this pertains only to the ridgeline) Yes I have proved it. By
ordering both.


Found the actual alignment sheet after I installed my lift. As you can see the fronts did not change at all. Except toe. which is normal
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The axles were replaced and now the shimmy I had when accelerating or going uphill is gone. When under power my RL is as smooth as it can be. Now I notice a very slight shimmy when coasting at speeds above 45 mph. This condition may have existed before the axle replacement and I didn't notice it because it is much less severe than the shimmy I was experiencing when accelerating. Any ideas what is causing the shimmy when coasting? I've searched around the Internet and found that this a not an uncommon problem but nobody ever knows what the solution is.
 

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The axles were replaced and now the shimmy I had when accelerating or going uphill is gone. When under power my RL is as smooth as it can be. Now I notice a very slight shimmy when coasting at speeds above 45 mph. This condition may have existed before the axle replacement and I didn't notice it because it is much less severe than the shimmy I was experiencing when accelerating. Any ideas what is causing the shimmy when coasting? I've searched around the Internet and found that this a not an uncommon problem but nobody ever knows what the solution is.
That's usually a faulty tire, balance, alignment, or in some cases wheel bearing problem. Suspect tires or balance first (rotate front to back to see if it goes away); and then alignment. It 'could' be shocks as well (more likely than wheel bearings).
 
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