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Well, this Little Old Lady decided this would be her last truck so bought the topped-out RTL-E, then--for the first time in my life--lost a key! Driver 1 key fob gone in less than a month, Lots of places on line offer "OEM" keys with programming instructions. ANY RECOMMENDATIONS ON SOURCES? Is programming difficult?
 

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I can't directly address your question; however, I had a spare FOB programmed by a locksmith. He charged $150.00 for the FOB and programming it. To program new FOB he plugged an 'electronic black box' into a socket under the dash and then typed something into the electronic device, walked a short distance away from vehicle with my Driver 1 FOB, waited a brief time, came back to the device and made another brief entry then unplugged it. Entire programming session took less than 5 minutes. My guess is greatest expense would be the electronic programming device.
 

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So I can answer this one. I run a warehouse that supplies to the automotive locksmith channel. You will not be able to program the fob on your own, you will need either a dealer or a locksmith to use a diagnostic tool through the OBD2 port, like the previous post described, to have the fob programmed in and then the emergency key will need to be cut as well. The diagnostic tools run anywhere from 3 to 5K so I highly doubt you will want to purchase one for a 1 time use. Some places I have worked with and recommend are Transponder Island, and Midwest Keyless. You can quickly find them online. Both companies offer OEM, and then refurbished OEM fobs to save a little bit of money. Then once you purchase the fob a dealer or locksmith will be the only way to have it programmed in.
 

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Been there done that! I thought I would test if my key was somewhere in the car so I locked it with my spare key, placed that key on the table away from the truck, and then tried to open the driver door - hoping if the key was in the truck that the door would unlock on contact - nope. My dealer had to order the fob, 2017s are different. But they couldn't program it because, as it turned out, my lost key was down between the console and seat; out of sight but near enough to interfere with the programming of the new key. They said the real test to check for the proximity of the key is to see if you can start the vehicle (not unlock it).
So my replacement process was a new fob, new physical key, cut the physical key, and programming of the new fob... I have the new key locked away in our safe.
 

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So, now I can't find my FOB....great.

If i get a new one, and then I find my old one, will they both work?....or will the activation of the new make the old one dysfunctional.
 

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So, now I can't find my FOB....great.

If i get a new one, and then I find my old one, will they both work?....or will the activation of the new make the old one dysfunctional.
At activation you need all fobs there. So if you do find the old fob it will be de-activated and you would need to go thru the activation process again to have all three fobs working.
 

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I kinda lost mine yesterday and went into full panic mode. I was running errands and was interrupted while unloading (while I normally place wallet, watch and fob/keys on my dresser). Then I went to go out again and, well, no fob! AHHH! After calming down again and thinking where I had it last, I realized that I had to have the fob with me to get home and pull into the garage where I leave the Ridge unlocked. Went out to the garage, tried to start it and YES! she started. My fob had fallen out of my pocket between my seat and the console, ending up on the floor just behind my driver seat. Had to get a flashlight to find it though, but all is well. So, yes, a good test is to see if she starts...at least in my situation...:wink::grin:
 

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I had concerns of losing the slick fob from my pocket so I now use a silicone rubber sleeve. It adds some tacky feel to the fob and I hope will prevent it me from losing the fob. It also makes it a little more challenging to get the fob into my pocket so I make a concerted effort to get it in which also increases security.
 

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I've lost my spare fob for my 2019 Ridgeline and it looks like the only way to go is to purchase from the dealer because they have to program it. Anybody go that route recently and what did it cost.

Also I bought a specific road hazard policy at the time of purchase and the finance person ( the one that try's to sell you everything told me that it would cover a lost key fob. I can't find any paperwork that mentions that and the road hazard is of course handled by a separate insurance company ( Fidelity Warranty services) . Anybody hear of that scenario or was it the typical lie that they throw at you to get more money.
 

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Have you tried not losing your keys? You should try not losing your keys.

That said, I'm glad I'm back into a vehicle that has smartkeys. I bought a Volt that had a smartkey and loved it. I kept one in my bag for work and one in the key basket. I'd use the latter when doing anything but going to work. Going to work, I'd just grab my backpack and go. Then I went to a Tacoma SR5 and had to go back to sticking the key in the hole and turning it. SO UNCIVILIZED!

Now I'm back to a smartkey and I love it... but the employer has decided to shut down the local office, so I'm permanently on work-from-home. Oh well.
 

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Have you tried not losing your keys? You should try not losing your keys.

That said, I'm glad I'm back into a vehicle that has smartkeys. I bought a Volt that had a smartkey and loved it. I kept one in my bag for work and one in the key basket. I'd use the latter when doing anything but going to work. Going to work, I'd just grab my backpack and go. Then I went to a Tacoma SR5 and had to go back to sticking the key in the hole and turning it. SO UNCIVILIZED!

Now I'm back to a smartkey and I love it... but the employer has decided to shut down the local office, so I'm permanently on work-from-home. Oh well.
Thanks... that was super helpful. I'm sure you've never lost anything.

And thanks for your update on your life. So your one of the people benefiting from Covid by being able to work from home permanently and keep your job. What a joke that is.
 

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My fobs say Driver 1 and Driver 2. As far as I can tell, the only difference in operations is which default settings for the memory seat and mirrors. In any case, since the printing is etched onto the back of the fobs, I wonder if the fobs are actually different or if the functions are assigned up during dealer programming
 

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Anyone’s fobs all scratched up on the clear plastic backing? Mine came that way from the dealer and I was curious if that was just normal.
 

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I found a TPU (rubbery phone case type material) cover on Amazon and got one for my main key. It does add a little bulk, and would make the physical key a little tougher to get to.. but it feels pretty well protected. Here's pics of what it looks like compared to the bare key:

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It adds some thickness, but doesn't feel odd in my pocket. I could throw it down the driveway and the key should be fine. It was $13 on Amazon.
 

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2019 RTL-T Forest Mist Metallic
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I found a TPU (rubbery phone case type material) cover on Amazon and got one for my main key. It does add a little bulk, and would make the physical key a little tougher to get to.. but it feels pretty well protected. Here's pics of what it looks like compared to the bare key:

View attachment 407129


View attachment 407130


It adds some thickness, but doesn't feel odd in my pocket. I could throw it down the driveway and the key should be fine. It was $13 on Amazon.
I don't understand. The buttons aren't the same?
 
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