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Lowering springs

22K views 31 replies 13 participants last post by  brentong 
#1 ·
Has anyone tried Pilot springs to see if they'd lower the Ridgeline as they are different part numbers. My new Black Edition is way too high and rides a bit rough for my liking.
 
#8 ·
Got it. I know somebody on one of this suspension threads order lowering springs only to end up at the same height as oem. He also bought new. What he and his stealership didn’t interact about was that the stealership had install a lift kit on his particular truck as a dealer add on.

So that is why I was making sure you aren’t lifted. Since you mention the height issue. Since that is not a common complaint here.


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#4 ·
Pilots do not have springs and those who have those have taken various springs and cut them. Cutting a spring changes its spring rate and also, as evident as it is, voids the warranty and puts you in a realm of your own.

As far as the discussion on current generation Pilot, Passport and Ridgeline suspension discussion, you may want to do a search. I was part of one not too long ago and unless one would have the physical springs at hand to compare, you cannot be sure 100%. Also, no one here on ROC has done what you proposed above.

Did you not take your BE for a test drive before you bought it? Do know that lowering the truck is not going to fix that rough ride you are talking about.
 
#5 ·
Yes, I test drove one but the roads were pretty smooth around the dealership. Pilot parts breakdown shows the same looking items as the Ridgeline does only slightly different is part numbers. Doubt most dealers stock either one as there is little demand I'd think. Never hurts to ask though. Would be nice to see them side by side. Just like to find some more progressively wound spings to lower it AND improve the ride at the sametime since I don't haul that much. Hope this helps...
 
#9 ·
One month after the install.. So far it’s been a great ride. I agree with others who shared their experience of their lowered RL. The ride is now better than stock, IMO. It takes bumps/dips better, corners better, I’m more confident at high speeds on the freeway. Not saying these were problems before, just saying I definitely feel a difference.
401005
 
#13 ·
One month after the install.. So far it’s been a great ride.
Nice job! Really looks a lot better lowered. I have springs ordered but no idea when they'll get here. Looking forward to them. Got a couple of quotes for replacing them. About $500. What did they charge you if you don't mind my asking? I can do it as I have what I need (except alignment of course) but I care less and less about laying on concrete. Been doing of that a bit installing new fender flares but their not too bad. Thanks for sharing your ride.
 
#10 ·
It looks really nice!!! The proportions are really good.
So from a driving perspective, when you mean it drives better than stock, are you referring to noise, vibration and harness, or the ability of the truck to take corners better? Though with lowering springs, one can expect a firmer (in some cases stiffer) ride, are you saying that the smoothness of the ride is very close to OEM or even better (better comfort)? With the lowered center of mass and center of gravity, stability at and above highway speeds will be much better and I am glad that you report similar sentiments. How about your fuel economy? Have you driven enough to see any change?

Honestly, I am very glad that you are back to report your experience. It would be awesome if you could even start a new thread and do an in-depth experience. Thanks again!! (y)
 
#11 ·
@smufguy The truck has no more vibrations than it did stock. I have installed lowering springs on sedans/coupes in the past and will notice tension noises from the springs or body/frame, but not with this truck. Nothing abnormal, no squeaking or creaking. The truck is lowered "just enough" to give it a better stance and lower center of gravity, it feels very planted. Feels great at high speeds and corners. "Just enough" is also affects the ride hardness. On lowered sedans/coupes, its pretty much slammed. Therefore, there's not much travel between the springs, giving it a harsher ride. My truck still have about 3 inches in the front, there's so much available travel for the springs to absorb any dips or bumps. I driver over speed bumps everyday so I can tell you it absorbs it, not as bouncy as stock. Overall the ride is smooth and comfortable. It is better than stock. My wife feels the same and her daily is a Porsche Cayenne GTS.

I don't know what to say about the fuel economy. So many changes in the past month..1. lowered the truck 2. negative cambering due to lowering 3. installed AEM intake 4. installed magnaflow exhaust 5. driving habits changed due to quarantine. I use to drive about 80 miles on the freeway for work everyday with mix driving and I averaged about 21-22 mpg. Since the quarantine, I don't drive on freeways and I average 16-17 mpg running errands locally. Also I have a sprint booster installed. When I turn off the sprint booster and turn on Econ, I do gain about 2 mpg but damn the truck gets boring. Feels worse than a Prius. So I cannot give judgement on the springs alone. I can only take my configuration now and compare to when it was all stock. My mpg did go down about 2-3 mpg. Heck I even noticed I lost mpg when I got my wheels and tires. I think my current wheel/tire is about 5 lbs heavier than stock, per.

I hope all this address your concerns. I'm not a expert my any means. This just my observations and opinions.
 
#12 ·
Awesome!! You recounting your experience is really great and I thank you for that. It is hard to get some quantitative feedback from folks who install aftermarket components and how that translates to every day driving. Opinions can be one thing, but there is no replacement for detailed experience recounts. Enjoy the truck and would love to see more pictures of it :)
 
#14 ·
@InnateTech the job will take 2.5 to 3 hours max if they know what they are doing. I called around as well. Some people quoted me per project, some quoted me per hour. I got mine done for $100/hr. You can DIY, but you will need require a spring compressor. It will help greatly if you have the truck lifted. The mechanic had a problem reconnecting the bolt, so he needed an extra set of hands. I don’t know what that connection/part is called but I’ll show you in the picture, it happened on both sides.
401025
 
#15 ·
I am not sure why they would have unbolted the lower control arm from the Subframe side, and not the brake/hub side. When I replaced my shocks on the G1, I undid the shock and the hub bolts and was able to change it that way. Getting all four corners tackled in around 3 hours is very good. I would assume this is with them taking apart the springs, and then reinstalling everything back. It took me about 6-hrs to do all four corners and replaced the upper control arms in the rear and the lower control arms in the front. Ideally, I would say that, the job would have taken me about 4.5hrs just for the shocks.

Honestly though, your pictures are great. I dont have a G2, but I am starting to really like the aesthetics of your truck and the modifications. :)
 
#16 ·
@smufguy thanks bro. I’m done with mods. I can’t think of anything else I can do to make it more “Street”. I made a mod list before I bought the truck, thinking it would be a year before I completed the list. The list was completed in 3 months lol. I was actually looking at your profile last night for inspiration lol. I was comparing this truck with wrangler and Tacoma. My wife should feel lucky that I chose a RL.

Because of you, I started looking at brake kits.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Because of you, I started looking at brake kits.
I bought an RT and you got a BE; total ends of the spectrum :) Also, I waited a while to do major upgrades, and you had it all planned prior to buying :) :). Your approach on mods are very inline with how I approach modifications (y). To boot, your wife drives a Cayenne; my #1 SUV if I had money laying around.

I say speak with Loren over at Rotora about your brakes, but let them know your truck is lowered (as they recommend the test vehicle be stock). They are in Irwindale, and always looking for new project vehicles. If they take your vehicle for testing, you get their products at a very good discount. Since the G2 uses electric parking brakes, unlike the G1, getting a rear kit made is no brainer. HyperPete started a thread about brakes for a G2 and I shared with him some of my thoughts about G2 front brakes. It could be a good place to start. Also, for the rear, I have seen Rotora make an adapter that interfaces with the OEM parking brake actuator; seen a video of a guy on YouTube do it to his Volvo which he also takes it to the track.

EDIT: G2 does not use electric parking brake
 
#22 ·
do the 2wd rear springs sit a bit lower than the 4wd rear springs?

ie: if someone was to put the 2wd rear springs on the 4wd model...I would assume the rear would drop a bit more, at the cost of bed weight carrying capacity. Would that be a correct statement?
 
#27 ·
Same camber result as I got, -.9 on front -1.8. On rear, jive about needing ajusable ball joints for Burtman springs is just that... ignorant jive by people who do not have them. If I get adjustable ball joints it will be to add more camber and be based on tire pyrometer checks with extreme summer tires on 20” or 22” and a race track, not some internet keyboard yahoo with all terrain or all season tires. Really love what you did with your truck! You and Smook‘s threads cost me the best 3K I have spent, made the Ridgeline fun enough to drive to do it just for the joy of it.
 
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