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The last main maint. we had done was around 75k, changed tran and differential fluid. And that was done by a friend mechanic onsite.
No trips to the dealer since.

Can someone tell me what I need to have done at this stage?
Not planning to get rid of it anytime soon.
Poor POOR gas mileage.
Prolly have a real dirty K&N and need to just go back to std. filter.

Have a great mechanic who can do whatever is needed... but he's no Honda "pro" so I'm not sure if he's up to speed on what needs to be done getting close to 150k.

thx
 

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2104 Honda Ridgeline SE
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The last main maint. we had done was around 75k, changed tran and differential fluid. And that was done by a friend mechanic onsite.
No trips to the dealer since.

Can someone tell me what I need to have done at this stage?
Not planning to get rid of it anytime soon.
Poor POOR gas mileage.
Prolly have a real dirty K&N and need to just go back to std. filter.

Have a great mechanic who can do whatever is needed... but he's no Honda "pro" so I'm not sure if he's up to speed on what needs to be done getting close to 150k.

thx
It depends on your driving. There is a regular and extreme service schedule. Usually most just follow the Maintenance minder.
Here is a post with item intervals...

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8128
 

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You didn't say miles or kilometers, so I'll assume miles. And you didn't mention oil changes, but I hope to God you've had oil & filter changed several times in those last 75k miles. I'll assume you've done those.
First up (refer to the list in previous post for more comprehensive review):
- Transmission fluid: You should drain & fill 3 times to make up for very old fluid in there.... each drain only removes a portion of the entire contents, so you'll need to do at least 3 times to get rid of the old over-used stuff. Use only Honda DW1 fluid. Drive a little bit in ALL gears between each drain & fill.
- VTM-4 fluid (differential). Use ONLY Honda VTM-4 fluid.... ONLY!
- Transfer case.... use gear oil.... GL4 or GL5 I think.... easy to find out... does NOT need to be Honda specific gear oil. Any quality brand.
- Coolant.... use only Honda Coolant, and be sure to drain from rear drain valve at back of engine as well as from radiator.
- Power Steering fluid. You should drain reservoir & run (turn wheels full in each direction a few times at least or just drive for a few days), then drain & fill again if fluid is still dirty.
- Bleed brakes to completely replace brake fluid. Use Dot3. Be SURE to bleed in the specified sequence (refer Service Manual or find same maybe here on forum somewhere).
- Clean & lube your brake calipers (pins & slides).... and check for other components needing attention (pads, discs).
- Check axle boots for leakage (throws off grease at boot ends) & replace boots or just reclamp as required (boots may be intact & leaking only at axle interface... in which case you can tighten up with new clamps).
- Replace Air filter (YES - return to stock box), and cabin air filter.
- Inspect Serpentine belt (you should be replacing it anyway with next line).
- Replace Timing Belt, Water Pump (optional), TB tensioner (not optional in many opinions), idler pulley. (you can get all of this in a kit) This (TB) was due at 105K miles, and you are entering danger territory above 150K. This is an "interference" engine, and you will likely destroy it (you'll at least severely damage it for sure) if your timing belt breaks before you replace it. If you're not taking to a "Honda" mechanic, see other detailed "how to" threads here with pictures & tips, and maybe Youtube for similar job (Odyssey) if you can't find one on RL. There are some significant tips/warnings to be aware of. Do a search.
- ALMOST FORGOT! Check to see that all spark plugs are torqued properly & are NOT loose (also a sometimes occurring problem that leads to bad things). If they're tight, you're fine...... NO WAIT - - - You need to change those plugs... they were also due at 105K miles. Get the prescribed NGK or Nippon Denso plug (don't really remember which Honda recommends, but others here might chime in). Be sure to torque them to the proper value (not too tight or too loose!).

..... and whatever else has not been done.... but these are the critical ones.

You'll want to keep an eye on your suspension components (inspect them now).... with that many miles, you may experience some wearing out soon. Or maybe not... these are hard to predict.
Also watch your radiator hoses for soft spots..... also hard to predict.
Inspect your radiator when you change the fluid.... should be very clean inside. Also look at the trans cooling line fittings at bottom of radiator. You can read about that here (do a search) .... some risk of premature failure; and some prospect for serious transmission damage potential if that happens. Many proactively replace the radiator at your current or higher mileage, just to be safe. You are looking for "rust-swollen" washers at those fittings that might predict threads failing at that fitting. Not all RLs suffer this fate, but it's something you should be aware of & looking for.


One more optional deal (some say a must with your mileage) is to check valve clearance. The argument for the "must" is the tendency for exhaust valves to become tight (not loose) over time, which means you won't 'hear' that they need adjusting, and that you risk burnt valves if they become too tight.

You've got some work ahead of you, but if you make right with this deferred maintenance, you should be good to go for a long time to come.

Keep changing your oil & filter at least when the maintenance minder says to do so, and then be sure to keep up with tranny & VTM-4 fluid changes. Those are as critical as your oil, but a lot more likely to be ignored.
 

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Dnick's list is comprehensive, and I concur with each recommendation. Based on OP, you are way behind on all your required services if you plan to keep the truck.

The "poor POOR" gas mileage caught my eye. Can you elaborate? Are we talking 18mpg HWY, or 10mpg HWY. Engine light on dash? Lifted? Big tires? My suggestions would vary depending.

Lose the K&N filter. Assuming it is the oiled type, your intake air sensor(s) and throttle body may be gunked up. If you have any dash lights lights on, get the codes read somewhere. Dealer is best but I understand the desire to stay away from there.

Good luck
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Good comprehensive list. To that I would add change out the O2 sensors as well. That may help the mpg issue and should help prolong the life of your catalytic converters.
 

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:BIG LIST" for sure. You can throw me under the bus for following but just my experience over 55 years of driving. Never changed brake or steering fluid in anything I ever owned. I have 180,00 my my RL. Changed transmission fluid and differential fluid once. Never touched radiator. Changed plugs once and just had timing belt and water pump replaced. Drives like a dream never a problem. Will keep it for many more years. Just my two cents. I think you can go to unnecessary preventative maintenance but to each his own. If ya paid to have all the "list" down you might have a couple thousand dollars invested. Again just my opinion. Good luck
 

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:BIG LIST" for sure. You can throw me under the bus for following but just my experience over 55 years of driving. Never changed brake or steering fluid in anything I ever owned. I have 180,00 my my RL. Changed transmission fluid and differential fluid once. Never touched radiator. Changed plugs once and just had timing belt and water pump replaced. Drives like a dream never a problem. Will keep it for many more years. Just my two cents. I think you can go to unnecessary preventative maintenance but to each his own. If ya paid to have all the "list" down you might have a couple thousand dollars invested. Again just my opinion. Good luck
Understood. And yet from my background, that's a good way to die young! It can be hard sorting out the difference between over kill and being penny wise but pound foolish.

Imo, putting a couple grand in a good, high mileage vehicle to bring it up to par is a good investment in reliability, especially if you plan to keep it for the long haul. But everyone has to make their own decision in this regard.
 

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:BIG LIST" for sure. You can throw me under the bus for following but just my experience over 55 years of driving. Never changed brake or steering fluid in anything I ever owned. I have 180,00 my my RL. Changed transmission fluid and differential fluid once. Never touched radiator. Changed plugs once and just had timing belt and water pump replaced. Drives like a dream never a problem. Will keep it for many more years. Just my two cents. I think you can go to unnecessary preventative maintenance but to each his own. If ya paid to have all the "list" down you might have a couple thousand dollars invested. Again just my opinion. Good luck
Good for you, and count yoruself lucky. You didn't say if that was 180,000 MILES, or KILOMETERS. Big difference.
One thing I'll say w/o reservation, and not to be mean spirited, but you are nuts if you are at 180K miles and still think you are "good to go" with that timing belt in there. The other items will at least maybe give you some warning of their pending failure, and most will recover when attended to.... but NOT your timing belt. You may think you'r OK, but you are not.
Some people chain smoked all their life & never got cancer.... that doesn't mean chain smoking is safe..... it just means they dodged the cancer bullet. So far you have dodged the bullet, thanks in large part to a very reliable vehicle..... but if we all did what you have done, we would NOT all have had the same results, Guaranteed!!!
I agree some maintenance service is more critical than others, and if need be (no money for instance) they can be managed on a 'triage' basis. But the critical ones should be done period, if at all possible. The consequences can be dire.
Also, I'm wondering; if you had your engine blow up on you at 170K miles due to TB not being serviced, would you blame Honda for your $5K-10K repair bill, or would you blame yourself?? ..... if you're OK with risk taking and can absorb the loss, then that's your choice, but i wouldn't recommend that course to others w/o full disclosure of the real risks & consequences being faced.
Anyway, I'm glad you're enjoying your Honda with so few problems.
 

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If ya read the post I just had the timing belt replaced. When they did it the dealer said the radiator was fine. Been interested in mechanical things all my life, just don't think I needed to go overboard (in my opinion) on some things. Good luck with your RL. Best vehicle I have ever owned.
 

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If ya read the post I just had the timing belt replaced. When they did it the dealer said the radiator was fine. Been interested in mechanical things all my life, just don't think I needed to go overboard (in my opinion) on some things. Good luck with your RL. Best vehicle I have ever owned.
My bad on TB... better put on my glasses. Glad to hear you're wise to that. You didn't say: Miles or KM?
I have to say I find it interesting that you changed the water pump (probably NOT necessary, is not specified & not a 'nickel' item) but don't think an inexpensive brake fluid bleed (which is specified & is a safety issue) is something to be done. FYI brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which makes it absolutely less effective as time goes by. You may find out in a panic stop some day.. which won't be good. At least keep aware of any degradation in brake 'feel' & monitor via a 'practice' panic stop once in a while. My opinion: Even if you don't do any of those other "vehicle-preservation" maintenance tasks, at least get your brakes bled next time you get new pads put on. It's just too obvious not to do.
 

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Good comprehensive list. To that I would add change out the O2 sensors as well. That may help the mpg issue and should help prolong the life of your catalytic converters.
With a quick look on AutoZone's website, to replace all four O2 sensors, it would cost approximately $350 after tax just for the parts. :act060:

I don't understand why they are so darned expensive for this truck. The downstream ones are a little less expensive, but the upstream ones are crazy. The front upstream one is $130 on its own.
 

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With a quick look on AutoZone's website, to replace all four O2 sensors, it would cost approximately $350 after tax just for the parts. :act060:

I don't understand why they are so darned expensive for this truck. The downstream ones are a little less expensive, but the upstream ones are crazy. The front upstream one is $130 on its own.
Autozone? Can you even get the NTKs (OEM supplier) from them?

I purchased all four NTK sensors for about $220 shipped. I used amazon for the downstreams ($56 and $47) and found the upstreams from an ebay supplier for $60 each.

Still some $ but much better than Autozone.
 

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Autozone? Can you even get the NTKs (OEM supplier) from them?

I purchased all four NTK sensors for about $220 shipped. I used amazon for the downstreams ($56 and $47) and found the upstreams from an ebay supplier for $60 each.

Still some $ but much better than Autozone.
The ones I looked at were made by Bosch. I don't particularly care to buy much of anything from auto parts stores as their prices are always higher than Amazon or other online sources. Nevertheless, I remember O2 sensors being around $20-30 for previous vehicles. The fact that this truck has FOUR of them doesn't help, either. If fuel efficiency were of great concern to me, I would probably change all of mine since I have 145k on the clock now. However, with driving only 4-5k a year and filling up once every 4 weeks or so, it isn't worth it to me right now.
 

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From what I've gathered, the main point of changing the O2 sensors is to preserve the life of the cats.
 
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