You didn't say miles or kilometers, so I'll assume miles. And you didn't mention oil changes, but I hope to God you've had oil & filter changed several times in those last 75k miles. I'll assume you've done those.
First up (refer to the list in previous post for more comprehensive review):
- Transmission fluid: You should drain & fill 3 times to make up for very old fluid in there.... each drain only removes a portion of the entire contents, so you'll need to do at least 3 times to get rid of the old over-used stuff. Use only Honda DW1 fluid. Drive a little bit in ALL gears between each drain & fill.
- VTM-4 fluid (differential). Use ONLY Honda VTM-4 fluid.... ONLY!
- Transfer case.... use gear oil.... GL4 or GL5 I think.... easy to find out... does NOT need to be Honda specific gear oil. Any quality brand.
- Coolant.... use only Honda Coolant, and be sure to drain from rear drain valve at back of engine as well as from radiator.
- Power Steering fluid. You should drain reservoir & run (turn wheels full in each direction a few times at least or just drive for a few days), then drain & fill again if fluid is still dirty.
- Bleed brakes to completely replace brake fluid. Use Dot3. Be SURE to bleed in the specified sequence (refer Service Manual or find same maybe here on forum somewhere).
- Clean & lube your brake calipers (pins & slides).... and check for other components needing attention (pads, discs).
- Check axle boots for leakage (throws off grease at boot ends) & replace boots or just reclamp as required (boots may be intact & leaking only at axle interface... in which case you can tighten up with new clamps).
- Replace Air filter (YES - return to stock box), and cabin air filter.
- Inspect Serpentine belt (you should be replacing it anyway with next line).
- Replace Timing Belt, Water Pump (optional), TB tensioner (not optional in many opinions), idler pulley. (you can get all of this in a kit) This (TB) was due at 105K miles, and you are entering danger territory above 150K. This is an "interference" engine, and you will likely destroy it (you'll at least severely damage it for sure) if your timing belt breaks before you replace it. If you're not taking to a "Honda" mechanic, see other detailed "how to" threads here with pictures & tips, and maybe Youtube for similar job (Odyssey) if you can't find one on RL. There are some significant tips/warnings to be aware of. Do a search.
- ALMOST FORGOT! Check to see that all spark plugs are torqued properly & are NOT loose (also a sometimes occurring problem that leads to bad things). If they're tight, you're fine...... NO WAIT - - - You need to change those plugs... they were also due at 105K miles. Get the prescribed NGK or Nippon Denso plug (don't really remember which Honda recommends, but others here might chime in). Be sure to torque them to the proper value (not too tight or too loose!).
..... and whatever else has not been done.... but these are the critical ones.
You'll want to keep an eye on your suspension components (inspect them now).... with that many miles, you may experience some wearing out soon. Or maybe not... these are hard to predict.
Also watch your radiator hoses for soft spots..... also hard to predict.
Inspect your radiator when you change the fluid.... should be very clean inside. Also look at the trans cooling line fittings at bottom of radiator. You can read about that here (do a search) .... some risk of premature failure; and some prospect for serious transmission damage potential if that happens. Many proactively replace the radiator at your current or higher mileage, just to be safe. You are looking for "rust-swollen" washers at those fittings that might predict threads failing at that fitting. Not all RLs suffer this fate, but it's something you should be aware of & looking for.
One more optional deal (some say a must with your mileage) is to check valve clearance. The argument for the "must" is the tendency for exhaust valves to become tight (not loose) over time, which means you won't 'hear' that they need adjusting, and that you risk burnt valves if they become too tight.
You've got some work ahead of you, but if you make right with this deferred maintenance, you should be good to go for a long time to come.
Keep changing your oil & filter at least when the maintenance minder says to do so, and then be sure to keep up with tranny & VTM-4 fluid changes. Those are as critical as your oil, but a lot more likely to be ignored.
