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Discussion Starter #1
I’m not sure if this has previously been posted, but I can’t find the information despite multiple search terms/attempts.

I’m trying to figure out the “sequence” of the type of service the maintenance minder suggests at each progressive service interval.

I realize that the MM mileage will be different for everyone depending on driving conditions, etc. But since I do my own service I’m trying to plan ahead for the next steps.

Example (with my miles):

A1 (9150)
B16 (18666)
A12 (28459)

What might I expect at the next oil change interval?
 

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With some confidence, I'd guess your next service will be B1 somewhere around 38K. With less confidence, I'd guess the service after that might be A136 around 47K.

This is based off of my 2010 Ridgeline. I performed each service at 15% oil life which was approximately every 8K miles for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies - it will be interesting to see if the G2 follows the same pattern as the G1. If anyone else has a higher mileage G2, please chime in!
 

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Yes please share. I wonder if anyone knows if Honda fixed their radiator design flaw aka strawberry milk of death? There is also the leaking seams issue.
 
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Thanks @zroger73!

This would be of interest to me as well. I know there has to be someone out there with higher mileage that kept track of their codes. I also do my own maintenance and have been guessing what might come next. When my light turns on at 15%, I typically have ~3 weeks to plan, seeing as I'm doing about ~25k/year... maybe a bit more now actually...
 

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There's a lady on the Facebook Ridgeline group with a 2017 she purchased on August 31, 2017. It had 138K miles as of October 26, 2018. Her 2006 was still going with over 375K miles as of that date.

She said that her 2006 has been very reliable, but calls her 2017 a lemon. It's had three sets of injectors and catalytic converters, a keyless start system problem not caused by low remote batteries, and navigation system failure.

I've reached out to her with a few questions and invited her to join this forum to share her full experience first hand.
 

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Yikes! That sure sounds like she has a lemon with those issues. And dang, 138k in 14 months is a ton of miles. Assuming a work-day use vehicle, that's about 450 miles per work day!!
 

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If those cat converters and injectors were out of pocket that's concerring. I'm assuming that the emissions problems caused by the injectors caused the cats to fail. Maybe she didn't have updated injectors? If she did could this pose issues for 18's and 19's? Here in NY, there are laws about cat replacements which could end up meaning an OEM replacement to obey the law and have a vehicle that works. If OEM is expensive that could take the economics out of owning the truck if you do those types of miles.
 

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I've reached out to her with a few questions and invited her to join this forum to share her full experience first hand.
Her family has two white G2's and white and gray G1's.

She does not follow the Maintenance Minder. Instead, she changes the rear differential fluid every 50,000 km (31,068 miles) and the oil every 10,000 km (6,213 miles) on advice from her dealer.

It's on its fourth windshield, the driver's window raises and lowers on its own, the heated seats are intermittent, and paint has rubbed off the door frames down to bare metal from opening and closing the doors in addition to the injector, catalytic converter, and navigation system issues.

As of today at 292,084 km (181,492 miles), it currently has an "Emissions System Problem" message caused by faulty injectors for the fifth time. She bought a Honda Plus warranty that more than paid for itself, but it ended at 200,000 km so this set of injectors is on her.

She appears to maintain the vehicle well and has photographic evidence of the issues.
 

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Just wanted to update that I did my B126 @ ~56700 (really between 56700 and 57200 since I did the items over a span of a week.) The rear diff fluid didn't look nearly as bad as the first rear diff change and the magnet was practically clean.

As an aside, I have a shudder when breaking now, similar to the few times I "warped" the rotors on my parents Town Car. I probably braked too hard and then sat on them causing the pads to burn into the sides of the rotors. I can kind of tell, but it bothers my SO a bunch so we'll get it addressed. In any case, I ordered new front rotors and pads just in case they do need to be changed when we take a closer look in September. Seems that re checking torque on the lugs has helped and it's not as bad as it was a month ago, so maybe they are wearing smooth again. I didn't measure the pad thickness, but by eye there is a ton left, probably 7+mm. They didn't really look all that much less than the brand new pads I just got. Lots of freeway cruising here.

A1/8970
B16/18418
A12/27760
B1/37397
A13/47262
B126/56700 (w/OEM tire tread ~6/32 all around)
 

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Just wanted to update that I did my B126 @ ~56700 (really between 56700 and 57200 since I did the items over a span of a week.) The rear diff fluid didn't look nearly as bad as the first rear diff change and the magnet was practically clean.

As an aside, I have a shudder when breaking now, similar to the few times I "warped" the rotors on my parents Town Car. I probably braked too hard and then sat on them causing the pads to burn into the sides of the rotors. I can kind of tell, but it bothers my SO a bunch so we'll get it addressed. In any case, I ordered new front rotors and pads just in case they do need to be changed when we take a closer look in September. Seems that re checking torque on the lugs has helped and it's not as bad as it was a month ago, so maybe they are wearing smooth again. I didn't measure the pad thickness, but by eye there is a ton left, probably 7+mm. They didn't really look all that much less than the brand new pads I just got. Lots of freeway cruising here.

A1/8970
B16/18418
A12/27760
B1/37397
A13/47262
B126/56700 (w/OEM tire tread ~6/32 all around)
silkie,

What year and model do you have? Any other issues? You seem to have decent amount of miles.
 

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silkie,

What year and model do you have? Any other issues? You seem to have decent amount of miles.
2017 RTL, been primary vehicle for 2.5 years. Only other issue was the blower fan for the cabin air got a squeak and was replaced under warranty. So far so good otherwise. I do think the break thing is my own driving style issue. I messed up the breaking on the town car twice in under 2 years while on a learners licence before my parents bought me my own car to be hard on... they didn't fix the breaks on theirs after the 2nd time until after I quit driving it. lol. That said, I never "warped" the rotors on the SC300 coupe in the 13 years I drove it... but it was a much lighter vehicle.
 

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2017 RTL, been primary vehicle for 2.5 years. Only other issue was the blower fan for the cabin air got a squeak and was replaced under warranty. So far so good otherwise. I do think the break thing is my own driving style issue. I messed up the breaking on the town car twice in under 2 years while on a learners licence before my parents bought me my own car to be hard on... they didn't fix the breaks on theirs after the 2nd time until after I quit driving it. lol. That said, I never "warped" the rotors on the SC300 coupe in the 13 years I drove it... but it was a much lighter vehicle.
Good to hear... How many miles do you have now?
 

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Just wanted to update that I did my B126 @ ~56700 (really between 56700 and 57200 since I did the items over a span of a week.) The rear diff fluid didn't look nearly as bad as the first rear diff change and the magnet was practically clean.

As an aside, I have a shudder when breaking now, similar to the few times I "warped" the rotors on my parents Town Car. I probably braked too hard and then sat on them causing the pads to burn into the sides of the rotors. I can kind of tell, but it bothers my SO a bunch so we'll get it addressed. In any case, I ordered new front rotors and pads just in case they do need to be changed when we take a closer look in September. Seems that re checking torque on the lugs has helped and it's not as bad as it was a month ago, so maybe they are wearing smooth again. I didn't measure the pad thickness, but by eye there is a ton left, probably 7+mm. They didn't really look all that much less than the brand new pads I just got. Lots of freeway cruising here.

A1/8970
B16/18418
A12/27760
B1/37397
A13/47262
B126/56700 (w/OEM tire tread ~6/32 all around)
I would think it more likely you have a buildup of brake material in patches on your rotor than actual rotor warpage. You might be able to regain smooth operations by finding a quiet spot and doing some hard braking from speed.
I've yet to replace a rotor on either the 2006 Pilot (160k miles) or the 2008 RL (115k miles). I just swap in new pads and make sure the guide/slide pins are freed up at each tire rotation.
 
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I would think it more likely you have a buildup of brake material in patches on your rotor than actual rotor warpage. You might be able to regain smooth operations by finding a quiet spot and doing some hard braking from speed.
I've yet to replace a rotor on either the 2006 Pilot (160k miles) or the 2008 RL (115k miles). I just swap in new pads and make sure the guide/slide pins are freed up at each tire rotation.
From my reading, I agree with you, that it does seem very unlikly that I've actually "warped" the rotors. Which is why I left it in quotes... on the town car my dad just had them re-surfaced, but it was an older 91 which had enough material to resurface a time or two which fixed the issue.

As for my current situation....

After the vibration got fairly noticeable two months ago, we went around the vehicle and re-torqued the wheels. This is something I should have done myself after having the tires rotated... which really is an "easy" job but I can't actually lift my own tires with reasonable ease so paid to have it done... and I got lazy in checking the shops work. Anyway, after finding some of the lugs super tight, and others too loose for comfort, after a few hundred more miles of driving the shuttering while breaking did improve vs getting worse as it was. We just recently took off the front right tire for an oil change because I had my SO's help, and it seems that re-seating the wheel on while up and re-torquing has improved the breaking even further. It may be coincidental, but after ensuring the torques were even all around on all lugs and tires a second time, and a few more hundred miles of driving.... the vibration is nearly gone it seems. So I think I may be burning off the break material patches or maybe there was something due to the wheels not being torqued on evenly. In any case, I'm still driving and breaking on the originals and have a backup set in my closet that might not be used in a very long time as I literally do have a ton of pad life left, so in theory plenty of rotor life left. The only rotors we have ever replaced were on our hand me down CRV at about 180k miles (?) and they were the originals. I had never replaced the rotors on my SC even up to the day I sold it with over 200k miles, although the first owner may have had them replaced when I got it at around 100k miles.
 

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It's way past my bed time, which is maybe why I can't find the edit button... but wanted to update the sequence. (And just saw that posts that are too old are not editable).

@ ~65k and A1 just popped up. I'll probably do that service in about 1k miles (3 weeks).

A1/8970
B16/18418
A12/27760
B1/37397
A13/47262
B126/56700 (w/OEM tire tread ~6/32 all around)
A1/66908
 
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