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I recently did a B136 on my 17 RTL-T at 46k miles. I used the fluid types/quantities and torque values from this thread and that made it very easy when buying and doing the maintenance. I really appreciate the availability of all this information in one place. Makes it quick to reference on my phone or tablet while in the garage wrenching on the truck.

-Mike
 

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Great thread, thank you OP and everyone else for contributing!

Any stats/info on keyfob batteries?
 

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^^ Scratch that request, several other threads (and cracking my own keyfob open) reveal that my Ridgeline's (2018 Sport) keyfob battery is a 'CR 2032' type.

OP -- would it be okay to update the main post with this info? If you needed some other confirmation from other Ridgeline trim types, could someone else confirm?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
^^ Scratch that request, several other threads (and cracking my own keyfob open) reveal that my Ridgeline's (2018 Sport) keyfob battery is a 'CR 2032' type.

OP -- would it be okay to update the main post with this info? If you needed some other confirmation from other Ridgeline trim types, could someone else confirm?

Thanks.
I’m all for updating the post. Unfortunately since we switched to the new forum system I don’t see any options to edit/update old post.
Maybe I’m missing something but if not I’m sure a mod could add updated info to the post.
 

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I’m all for updating the post. Unfortunately since we switched to the new forum system I don’t see any options to edit/update old post.
Maybe I’m missing something but if not I’m sure a mod could add updated info to the post.
Message me or any other active moderator (@Carsmak, @Sparkland, @speedlever) and we'll be happy to edit a post. The new software is set to lock posts after 24 hours which is inline with many other forums (some lock in as little as 15 minutes to immediately).
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Tool to add. This oil filter wrench works better than the ratchet style.

Concur, although I like the following a little more:
Hasn't failed me yet.
 

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I changed the oil on my wife's Rogue for the first time this past weekend. The dealer has done the changes up until now, and I was somewhat pleasantly surprised to find that the filter didn't need the wrench. It was pretty sung, but after a couple of tries I was able to get it started turning with my hands.

Do you guys always tighten with the wrench or do you do hand tight and then both hands tight? I kind of like not having to bother with the wrench. Haven't done a change on the Ridgeline yet so I don't even know if you can get to the filter with both hands.
 

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I changed the oil on my wife's Rogue for the first time this past weekend. The dealer has done the changes up until now, and I was somewhat pleasantly surprised to find that the filter didn't need the wrench. It was pretty sung, but after a couple of tries I was able to get it started turning with my hands.

Do you guys always tighten with the wrench or do you do hand tight and then both hands tight? I kind of like not having to bother with the wrench. Haven't done a change on the Ridgeline yet so I don't even know if you can get to the filter with both hands.
You should never tighten with a wrench as this can easily distort the filter and its seal.

Official filter tightening specs are are typically based on tightening till first point of contact and then turning an additional specified amount. In reality most people just hand tighten as much as they can.

Over the years I have found that a wrench is usually necessary for loosening even though the filter was just hand tightened. I figure this is just the normal result of the heat cycles that the filter goes through.
 

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I guess a torque wrench would be the best thing to do technically if the filter isn't marked. I don't know that I've ever seen a marked filter, or maybe I just didn't notice. Is the Honda branded filter marked like that? Any other brands?
 

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I guess a torque wrench would be the best thing to do technically if the filter isn't marked. I don't know that I've ever seen a marked filter, or maybe I just didn't notice. Is the Honda branded filter marked like that? Any other brands?
Yes - all Honda-branded filters (15400-PLM-A01, 15400-PLM-A02, and 15400-RTA-003) have either numbers or triangles.
 

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9 ft lbs is incredibly light. Hand-tight is closer to 20 ft lbs (most universal torque wrenches don't go down that low unless you get one specific for low torque specs). I've been hand tightening oil filters on my cars since 1985 and never had a single leak or issue getting a filter off. But I've had to use the "awl-through-the-side-of-the-filter" trick to get many factory- and dealer-tightened oil filters off. In my opinion, hand tight is at least to torque spec for Honda filters.
 

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Can I request adding info on how often (in miles or kms) these fluids should be changed, not according to the maintenance minder
 

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You should never tighten with a wrench as this can easily distort the filter and its seal.

Official filter tightening specs are are typically based on tightening till first point of contact and then turning an additional specified amount. In reality most people just hand tighten as much as they can.

Over the years I have found that a wrench is usually necessary for loosening even though the filter was just hand tightened. I figure this is just the normal result of the heat cycles that the filter goes through.
Agree and disagree, over the decades with the various model vehicles that we have owned I have found that a one-handed 1/2 turn to a full turn after the gasket makes contact has been sufficient, no "two fisted" effort required. It really irks me when I have to dig out a wrench to remove an "over-tightened" oil filter.

Bill
 

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Can I request adding info on how often (in miles or kms) these fluids should be changed, not according to the maintenance minder
You're welcome to request it, but Honda doesn't publish such information. They expect owners to follow the Maintenance Minder. The only fluid that has a mileage-based interval associated with it is the rear differential fluid IF you regularly drive in mountainous areas at very low vehicle speeds or tow a trailer. Anyone who advises a specific mileage is giving your their opinion.
 

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Can I request adding info on how often (in miles or kms) these fluids should be changed, not according to the maintenance minder
Our G2 Ridgeline owners manual (see below - upper right) says that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years (i.e. - regardless of mileage). It says it’s “independent” of maintenance minder (MM) display. I can confirm that, as when I passed 3 years last August there was no MM message or code for
that.

 

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Our G2 Ridgeline owners manual (see below - upper right) says that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years (i.e. - regardless of mileage). It says it’s “independent” of maintenance minder (MM) display. I can confirm that, as when I passed 3 years last August there was no MM message or code for
that.

On some Honda models other than the Ridgeline, the MM includes sub code 7, which is for brake fluid.

Some Canadian models also include main code 0 instead of B and also add sub code 9 which is brake inspection.
 

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On some Honda models other than the Ridgeline, the MM includes sub code 7, which is for brake fluid.

Some Canadian models also include main code 0 instead of B and also add sub code 9 which is brake inspection.
If someone tells me one more thing Canada gets that Honda deprived my U.S. top of the line of I’m going to lose it:). My maintenance minder has still never told me to do the transmission fluid and I have 55k miles on my 2018 BE. I had the judder and had to change the fluid around 35k. It may be that my dealer did an excessive reset of the minder at some point but I don’t have any way to know. I would love a published recommended maintenance schedule.
 
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