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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Bear with me here as I don't know the terminology...

I brought my 2006 RL with 215k miles into a very reputable import shop to do spark plugs and valve adjustment. It was recently finished, and they called me back saying this - "One of the valves is still ticking under a stethoscope, and was burned too far in"

They didn't go ahead with the spark plugs or new gaskets, because they said in about 6 months I'm going to "develop a misfire". And they didn't want to waste my money.

I believe these guys, they have serviced my family for a few years, and have a solid reputation... With that said, I'm looking for my options. He is going to email me an exact quote for what he's calling a 'valve job' would cost. But that's probably more than the car is worth (his words).

I should say this RL is rust free, with an immaculate interior. I love it. But I don't know if I'm ready to drop 3500. Does anyone have any info what goes into a valve job? Should I look for a junk engine and swap that instead? I had the timing bet done just 3k miles ago, and a brand new radiator.


If you guys could provide your thoughts and how you'd handle this that would be very helpful. I'm trying to find the best way to handle this situation.

I'll provide any info needed.

Thanks!
 

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That's an interesting dilemma. Had the TB been replaced at 105k miles and the 2nd TB service done just 3k miles ago? Were the valves adjusted at the time the first TB was done (assuming it was done at 105k miles)? Or is this the first valve adjustment it's had?

A little ticking should be normal for valves... and also the fuel injectors, I believe. I would think a burned valve/seat could be polished unless it's worn beyond limits.

The problem with a used engine is just that. And you don't know the history, unlike the engine in your existing Ridge, which you know the history of if you've had it since new.

Here's a 5 year old thread that you may find helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's an interesting dilemma. Had the TB been replaced at 105k miles and the 2nd TB service done just 3k miles ago? Were the valves adjusted at the time the first TB was done (assuming it was done at 105k miles)? Or is this the first valve adjustment it's had?

A little ticking should be normal for valves... and also the fuel injectors, I believe. I would think a burned valve/seat could be polished unless it's worn beyond limits.

The problem with a used engine is just that. And you don't know the history, unlike the engine in your existing Ridge, which you know the history of if you've had it since new.

Here's a 5 year old thread that you may find helpful.

Thanks for responding - first of.. I haven't had it since new. My friend owned it before me, and I have a 'generally' good idea of the service history.

The TB has been replaced twice - I owned it for the second replacement. I fear that this is the first valve adjustment. My buddy did a good job at service in terms of spark plugs and TB, but don't think he went the "extra step" and did the valves.

I'll peruse the link you sent. Hopefully inspires something.

Is there another term for 'valve job' - searching this forum and valve job is mostly returning results of 'valve adjustment'
 

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Hey guys,

Bear with me here as I don't know the terminology...

I brought my 2006 RL with 215k miles into a very reputable import shop to do spark plugs and valve adjustment. It was recently finished, and they called me back saying this - "One of the valves is still ticking under a stethoscope, and was burned too far in"

They didn't go ahead with the spark plugs or new gaskets, because they said in about 6 months I'm going to "develop a misfire". And they didn't want to waste my money.

I believe these guys, they have serviced my family for a few years, and have a solid reputation... With that said, I'm looking for my options. He is going to email me an exact quote for what he's calling a 'valve job' would cost. But that's probably more than the car is worth (his words).

I should say this RL is rust free, with an immaculate interior. I love it. But I don't know if I'm ready to drop 3500. Does anyone have any info what goes into a valve job? Should I look for a junk engine and swap that instead? I had the timing bet done just 3k miles ago, and a brand new radiator.


If you guys could provide your thoughts and how you'd handle this that would be very helpful. I'm trying to find the best way to handle this situation.

I'll provide any info needed.

Thanks!
Tell them to put the plugs in and adjust the valves as best as possible and just run it till it blows. I bet it lasts longer than 6 months.

Steve
 

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I would remove the heads, remove the valves from the heads, inspect the valve faces and seats. The seats can be recut and new valves/guides installed. I would be doing this myself but your mechanic should be able to do the same. Remanufactured heads complete with valves are available.
 

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Go on u-tube and search for the first generation Ridgeline head removal with Eric the car guy. He does an R and R on the front cylinder head. If I knew how to send you the link I would.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tell them to put the plugs in and adjust the valves as best as possible and just run it till it blows. I bet it lasts longer than 6 months.

Steve
I actually just got it back. No gaskets or plugs. He estimates 5k miles. But it runs silently now.

guess he said there were no oil leaks but the valve is showing some signs of being bent.

When you say run it till it blows.... that means my only option at that point would be new motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would remove the heads, remove the valves from the heads, inspect the valve faces and seats. The seats can be recut and new valves/guides installed. I would be doing this myself but your mechanic should be able to do the same. Remanufactured heads complete with valves are available.
I really appreciate your thoughts, but I’m much too green to attempt this myself. I love this truck and want it done properly.

it does sound like u think it’s salvageable though. So maybe I could find a backyard mechanic that would try
 

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If it runs silently then it's probably better than you think. And if it blows then you'd still want a new engine anyway. Right ?

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If it runs silently then it's probably better than you think. And if it blows then you'd still want a new engine anyway. Right ?

Steve
Hopefully? I guess I’m saying is it worth the 2k-3k for a valve job? (I don’t even know what a valve job is)

Will there be a warning or will I just be stranded on the road someday
 

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get AAA
drive it...
change transmission fluid if not done as part of maintenance..rust free.. and running.. drive it.. breaks AAA and go from there..i have been driving mine with check engine light on P240etc..CAT for 10 years..i think something else will break besides the valves..prior..where you gonna find an RL running rust free for 3500?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
get AAA
drive it...
change transmission fluid if not done as part of maintenance..rust free.. and running.. drive it.. breaks AAA and go from there..i have been driving mine with check engine light on P240etc..CAT for 10 years..i think something else will break besides the valves..prior..where you gonna find an RL running rust free for 3500?
I really like this idea. I'm going to sign up for that. I don't want to not drive my RL because of fear.

Thats definitely my dilemma. I tend to worry a bit about my cars, so any vehicle for 3500 is gonna need maintenance. Let alone one as bad ass as the RL

Thanks again
 

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I really like this idea. I'm going to sign up for that. I don't want to not drive my RL because of fear.

Thats definitely my dilemma. I tend to worry a bit about my cars, so any vehicle for 3500 is gonna need maintenance. Let alone one as bad ass as the RL

Thanks again
I'm not the right guy to advise you on the valve issue, etc., and I wouldn't attempt to regarding finances either. But (and you knew there was a "but" :)) if you decide on the drive it/pay attention/see what happens route, then finance-wise, if you can regularly put aside/earmark some $ as if you were making payments on an already-done valve job (or replacement engine, etc.), you'll be putting yourself in position to a) pay for all or part of the repair more easily when it happens, or b) have assembled at least a partial a war chest to go another route at that point (sell the busted truck/find another one, etc.).

Sounds kinda dopey/preachy and probably obvious, I know, but don't mean it that way. Just making the timeline point that as the situation progresses you will likely have some time to get ready on the $ side of the equation.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm not the right guy to advise you on the valve issue, etc., and I wouldn't attempt to regarding finances either. But (and you knew there was a "but" :)) if you decide on the drive it/pay attention/see what happens route, then finance-wise, if you can regularly put aside/earmark some $ as if you were making payments on an already-done valve job (or replacement engine, etc.), you'll be putting yourself in position to a) pay for all or part of the repair more easily when it happens, or b) have assembled at least a partial a war chest to go another route at that point (sell the busted truck/find another one, etc.).

Sounds kinda dopey/preachy and probably obvious, I know, but don't mean it that way. Just making the timeline point that as the situation progresses you will likely have some time to get ready on the $ side of the equation.
Nope it's not preachy. This is basically what I was looking for when I posted this thread.... I'm not terribly concerned about paying for it. I'm more concerned with the technicality of what's going on...

Basically is it a truly drive it until it breaks scenario (or if it breaks is it worse than fixing now, like the timing belt)? Or is it a fix it now, and then risk something else engine related breaking. 215k miles is high, but there are plenty of examples of people going higher. So it's hard to make the right move.
 

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So, the question you are asking is. Do I spend more money on it now or just wait till later ?
Heck, why spend the money now ? You said that the mechanic got it running good without noises. That sounds like it's fixed to me for now. Run it.
As for the transmission, sure, change the fluid. That never hurt anyone to do that. And it might even run longer. 215k miles is a lot but if you want to save some more dough just run it and buy a new engine or just buy a whole new vehicle once it quits. By then it might have 300k miles and truthfully it doesn't owe you a thing. You'd have gotten your money's worth out of it.

Your choice, I would do exactly as i mentioned above personally. That's my choice.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the estimate back for the work they recommend doing. With tax just about 3500

Should i ask any additional questions?

$1,250.00 MISC LABOR
REPLACE CYLINDER HEAD GASKETS & RELATED GASKETS
REPLACE HEAD BOLTS
SEND HEADS FOR REPAIR
REPLACE PLUGS & THERMOSTAT
FILL WITH COOLANT
$18.75 LUBE, OIL, AND FILTER CHANGE
DRAIN AND REFILL CRANKCASE WITH PREMIUM MOTOR OIL, REPLACE OIL FILTER. LUBRICATE CHASSIS WHERE APPLICABLE. INSPECT AIR AND CABIN FILTER , TOP OFF ALL FLUID LEVELS AND APPLY REMINDER STICKER
--- Parts ---
$35.65 Thermostat - OE Specified Temperature 172 Degree
$175.54 Cylinder Head Bolt Kit
$83.82 Spark Plug - Iridium IX
$536.40 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
$1,000.00 CYLINDER HEAD REPAIR
$30.00 COOLANT
$13.50 CASTROL GTX MOTOR OIL
$7.65 OIL FILTER
 

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I actually just got it back. No gaskets or plugs. He estimates 5k miles. But it runs silently now.

guess he said there were no oil leaks but the valve is showing some signs of being bent.

When you say run it till it blows.... that means my only option at that point would be new motor?
I confess that I don't understand what you mean about a valve showing "some signs of being bent." What exactly does that mean.

I come from a background heavily grounded in preventative maintenance such that you can expect a high likelihood of reliable service. Ergo, I tend to err on the side of doing lots of PM and would probably have to have those heads pulled and get the valves fixed if I planned to keep it long term. As it is, if you have 215k on it and it's been otherwise well maintained and operated, then you might be about half-life-ish on it.

I'm really not into the drive it until it blows perspective. I know it will most likely blow when I least expect it. I even try to keep my old beater Civic in decent driving shape such that I could expect to reliably drive cross-country in it tomorrow if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I confess that I don't understand what you mean about a valve showing "some signs of being bent." What exactly does that mean.

I come from a background heavily grounded in preventative maintenance such that you can expect a high likelihood of reliable service. Ergo, I tend to err on the side of doing lots of PM and would probably have to have those heads pulled and get the valves fixed if I planned to keep it long term. As it is, if you have 215k on it and it's been otherwise well maintained and operated, then you might be about half-life-ish on it.

I'm really not into the drive it until it blows perspective. I know it will most likely blow when I least expect it. I even try to keep my old beater Civic in decent driving shape such that I could expect to reliably drive cross-country in it tomorrow if need be.

Right. I tried to take notes talking to him, but he was going so fast (it's a busy shop). I'm not opposed to spending the 3500, if it were to mean my engine will keep going to be one of those 300 -400k hondas. Let me ask you this -

Is this a situation like the timing belt? As in you have to do the preventative maintenance to avoid catastrophic damage? Or is the catastrophic damage already done (about to happen), and this is the fix?
 
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