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Discussion Starter #1
I've ordered a Blendmount and MirrorTap for my Escort radar detector and sniffed around the Pilot forums some.

Does anyone know how to remove the cover from the maplight/Homelink, etc. panel on an RTL-E or BE? Since the rear window and sunroof switches are there along with the map and interior lights, I'm fairly sure I'll find switched +12v power, but I'm not sure how to get to the fasteners. There are two screws in the sunglasses holder at the rear, but I suspect that there are more behind the front half of the assembly.

Thanks in advance....
 

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I have a Valentine One radar detector and I purchased the device that plugs into the car's computer and connects with a simple telephone cord to the radar on the windshield. Works great BUT.....If you get and RTL-E or BE that has the collision avoidance system, your detector will go off quite a bit more often than usual due to the fact that the collision avoidance system uses the same radar technology as police radars. Honda does turn the system off when traffic is lighter so it doesn't sound all the time which is nice. GM cars/trucks leave theirs on all the time and if you ever get beside or near one of those vehicles, your radar is useless because it constantly goes off.
 

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I have a Valentine One radar detector and I purchased the device that plugs into the car's computer and connects with a simple telephone cord to the radar on the windshield.
If you mean the ACC/Collision radar, it is not located in the windshield, it is in the Honda emblem in the grill. The system also uses the camera and that is in the windshield.
 

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I was referring more about the radio signals that the ACC system uses that interferes with the radar and not the actual placement of the radar detector.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I found this for mirror power on the 15 Pilot. I don't have a Ridgeline yet to check. Does this help you with removing the cover??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found this for mirror power on the 15 Pilot. I don't have a Ridgeline yet to check. Does this help you with removing the cover??
Thanks for searching. The new RTL-E and BE seem to have different dome/map lights. I'm trying to determine how to get into that panel to find a 12v switched wire. :-(
 

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I have a Valentine One radar detector and I purchased the device that plugs into the car's computer and connects with a simple telephone cord to the radar on the windshield. Works great BUT.....If you get and RTL-E or BE that has the collision avoidance system, your detector will go off quite a bit more often than usual due to the fact that the collision avoidance system uses the same radar technology as police radars. Honda does turn the system off when traffic is lighter so it doesn't sound all the time which is nice. GM cars/trucks leave theirs on all the time and if you ever get beside or near one of those vehicles, your radar is useless because it constantly goes off.
There are both iOS and Android solutions that may help with that.

iOS:
https://www.rdforum.org/forumdisplay.php?f=177

Android:
https://www.rdforum.org/forumdisplay.php?f=159

I have my V1 and dashcam hardwired. I'm holding off getting the V1C/LE hoping for a new version of the V1 that puts the BT module inside the V1. I want the ability to move my V1 and maintain fuil capability without having to install a V1C/LE in every vehicle we have.

https://store.valentine1.com/store/
 

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I have a Valentine One radar detector and I purchased the device that plugs into the car's computer and connects with a simple telephone cord to the radar on the windshield. Works great BUT.....If you get and RTL-E or BE that has the collision avoidance system, your detector will go off quite a bit more often than usual due to the fact that the collision avoidance system uses the same radar technology as police radars. Honda does turn the system off when traffic is lighter so it doesn't sound all the time which is nice. GM cars/trucks leave theirs on all the time and if you ever get beside or near one of those vehicles, your radar is useless because it constantly goes off.
Have you updated your V1? I did recently and cars and trucks with their nanny radars don't set it off anymore.
 

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I'm interested in how the sunroof control panel removes also. I want to mount my dashcam and tap in to switched 12v without running the wire all the way down to the dash.
 

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Funny how this thread took a turn. I played around with this for a while trying to figure out how to get my front cabin lights to match the color temperature to the map lights. Anyhow, the two screws under the sunglasses holder do not need to be removed. If I recall correctly, the entire control module and lighting can be pried out together as one unit. Remove the map/cabin lighting lenses first, then pry the entire module out. Underneath, you will see some harnesses for that module.

I am also planning to install a dashcam but I haven't tested any of the wiring yet. There seemed to be a lot of wires in that module. I didn't unplug the harness in case it resets the Homelink. I suspect the Homelink may get a constant 12v from the battery that may make it ideal to tap. Best to just run a new connection from the fuse box and use a Magic Pro to prevent it from draining your entire battery if you plan on using it for parking monitoring.

nizz
 

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I was trying to install a dashcam in my RTL-E today and looked to tap the cabin lights for power but decided not to mess with the wires there. The cabin lights panel came off fairly easy. I just used a plastic pry tool and pulled it out carefully.









So I decided to tap into the fuse panel and run a micro usb cable around the windshield. I tucked the cable behind the headliner and pushed it behind the plastic piece on the A-pillar.





Then I pried out the plastic piece at the end of the dashboard and routed the cable next to the fuse box.









I chose to tap the AC fuse (7.5A) and used one of these 12V to 5V adapters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0CS1EK/ref=pd_cp_0_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BDNMEVPDGQAWB02CWYWW



 

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Very nice job. Love the pics. They really add to your how-to post.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I've ordered a Blendmount and MirrorTap for my Escort radar detector and sniffed around the Pilot forums some.

Does anyone know how to remove the cover from the maplight/Homelink, etc. panel on an RTL-E or BE? Since the rear window and sunroof switches are there along with the map and interior lights, I'm fairly sure I'll find switched +12v power, but I'm not sure how to get to the fasteners. There are two screws in the sunglasses holder at the rear, but I suspect that there are more behind the front half of the assembly.

Thanks in advance....
Preliminary report:

The good news is that it's very easy to gain access to the overhead console. The portion with the switches and map lights just snaps out. The bad news is that I was unable to find a switched 12v wire. :-( Still hoping not to have to buy another cable and go all the way to the fuse box, but it's looking more likely.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for posting. I think I will end up going this route for my radar detector. Can you tell me if the fuses are micro or regular?

Thanks,

Richard
 

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So, what I cannot tell, or may have overlooked in some of the these posts... does the overhead switch panel provide constant unswitched power? I know if the dome light fade out, they do not come back on, so I wonder if they are switched... in fact everything I can think of on that panel is switched.
 

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There must be something up there for powering the rear view mirror auto dimming asm. And it's a add on product that can be put onto RL's. Must be some option wires of some kind in there.

Steve M
 

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Anyone figure out which wires you can tap into on the homelink console? Surely one of them is a switched power source? I'm kind of scared to fool with it as electrical isn't my thing.
 
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