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For those interested,

I can now roll 2wd or 100 or 300 lbs of torque per constant rear wheel without error vtm-4 with the VSA on or put back in AWD auto mode

a 100 lbs is enough so that not spin forward if we cut straight line and the vsa lets spin wheel in turns


solution: I emulated the rear clutch by 2 resistors 1.5 ohm 30 watt


in 2wd the engine on this truck is more powerful than we think at the bottom of the wheels before spin at any speed it takes well warmed before it stop


its really gives the impression that the vtm4 gobbles up a little too much power on takeoff




next step board selectors between 12V outputs and start full lock tests 5Amp
 

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prototype
https://ibb.co/mXJGXDc
first Ridgeline Gen1 AWD FULL TIME
40% lower vtm4 action and add minimun rear torque
selector between 300 or 600lbs/foot minimun rear torque 150 or 300lbs each wheel approximate

vtm-4 lock working at 3Amp + 1.4A from constant current
 

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its really gives the impression that the vtm4 gobbles up a little too much power on takeoff
Is it that the VTM4 robs the power, or is the engine management programmed to not rev the engine so freely? For someone lazy like me, can you elaborate on what settings change when the G1 is placed in VTM4 using D2 (under OEM conditions)?
 

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When the clutches are applied and the front wheels are turning, the VTM-4 unit tries to turn the rear wheels faster than the front wheels by 0.8% (2.7% for the G2). This results in mechanical windup that causes the clutches in the VTM-4 unit to slip by design (if they didn't the front tires would drag and/or the rear wheels would spin). This clutch slip generates heat due to friction.

So, in a Honda with (i)VTM-4 or SH-AWD, some of the power produced by the engine is wasted as heat in the rear differential.
 

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So you are saying that if the clutch does not slip, one can do a rear wheel burnout in the Ridgeline?

So what is the long term results of the heat build up in the differential? My pea brain thinks the clutches will suffer due to higher temp, but anyway to combat that with cooling?, if so what temp?
I personally do not see any realized benefits of this, unless someone is keen on taking the Ridgeline offroad, but just curious.

However, I am curious to know how much torque (from the engine) that the transmission and the rear diff can handle (G1 and G2).
 

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However, I am curious to know how much torque (from the engine) that the transmission and the rear diff can handle (G1 and G2).
Here's the G2. Somewhere, I calculated the same for the G1.

 

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first is for fun change an intake can take 1-2 hour i working on this for more than a month search on internet schema how rigdeline 4wd working i like to change thing

come here at Quebec city and you understand why 6 month winter with ice road

I take a closed winter road to save 30 minute traffic and i need more or i like to have more from a ultra great truck

the rear cluch on Ridg is fabulous only 150lbs / wheel = stability control at all speed not same as open diff


the first time i up one wheel and i turn it with hand and i can control torq on it wow wow i can


I will put schema soon

i speak french
 

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I hear you Dom; sorry I do not speak French. Dreaded going there 4 yrs ago as I do not speak a lick of it, let alone understand it.

Anyway, despite the fun part of it, dont you think a different vehicle would be suited to take the winter months, than the Ridgeline? I know you guys get heck of a lot of snow than me in NJ, but also you guys are more adapted to deal with it than us here.
 

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i see everywhere more 1.7% over for the Gen 1

the rear cluch can hold much more than 500 lbs current in clutch 0.8 Amp = +-150lbs 1.2 Amp +-300lbs 5A = +- 1500 estimated

now i know weak software in lock mode less than 6mph , 1700 rpm and don't turn steering or the current in clutch cut


easy to understand raise one rear wheel plug 1.5V AA battery on rear clutch and now you need 150lbs/foot before you can turn wheel with hand and if you turn it 1 hour at 11 rpm = 1 hour at 60mph = eat for 1.7% = very low
 

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come here at Quebec city and you understand why 6 month winter with ice road
I've been to Quebec city. Lots of hills. I once came within inches of T-boning a police cruiser that went through a red light at the bottom of one, in the summer while towing my camper with the Ranger.
6 months of winter is stretching it.
 

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You know that the VTM-4 will overheat and die if left on for more than 5 minutes. You probably have boiled the VTM-4 fluid and burned up the electronic clutch pack.

You probably have a full time FWD truck now - VTM-4 is designed to kick in when needed - it was never designed to be full time.
 

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after 3 year with my truck and i love it The Ridgeline is the best here for winter

but i make more than run onroad, i go all day on closed road for winter where big 4x4 pass i need more rear bias at 50 km/h when 12 po or more staked snow in center sometime i haul Subaru from it with my cable


reply to Larryr : My truck run perfectly in 4wd Fulltime since 2000km and the rear coil is in very good shape and the clutch also

the rear current is only 0.8Amp only 1,3 watt the coil is 1.7 ohm you need big cooper wire to make this type of coil with more than 1000 turn to have this power (field) and support 5Amp lock mode more than you thing
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A speaker of 150 watt 8ohm with ultra small wire coil is weak compared to rear coil clutch
Cooper wire react to temp, ohm increases with heat, at 150 celcius the coil reach 150% of 1.7ohm i mesured it after 300km trip and alway 1.7R

and for the clutch 19 plate in oil slip at 11 rpm 150 lbs same as when i run 60mph my arms can turn it all day long and oil never heat and Vtm4 look the temp of oil and i never see error in dash
 

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With only 150lbs/foot /wheel the truck run at minimun 50% rear torque in gear 5 and 100% rear on cruise speed (i thing) when i accel slowly i feel the clutch start to slip and the front start to pull with all loose in front axle, diff, cvd ,tire slip i thing the 1.7% rear overdrive is same as electronic concept 1% is nothing

And for the driving on wet road big rain it was realy an other world feel the road same as dry same when i pass big water patch it become a propulsion truck with forward help with the best ever limited slip diff same torque at each wheel wow Honda made very good job with this clutch Gen2 work like this Honda tell it keep minimum rear bias but how many ?
 

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So what is the long term results of the heat build up in the differential? My pea brain thinks the clutches will suffer due to higher temp, but anyway to combat that with cooling?, if so what temp?
I personally do not see any realized benefits of this
The primary result is clutch pack wear. The main reason to ‘over-‘drive the rear axle is to do with traction and stability up front.
 

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@dom79 would love to see some pictures/videos of this in action, how you are controlling from the driver seat and more information the better

Moderator Note: Threads Merged
 

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You know that the VTM-4 will overheat and die if left on for more than 5 minutes. You probably have boiled the VTM-4 fluid and burned up the electronic clutch pack.

You probably have a full time FWD truck now - VTM-4 is designed to kick in when needed - it was never designed to be full time.
Should be easy enough to test if he has a silent VMT-4 failure. If he has torque steer and can burn rubber from a standing start, then yep, I'd bet on the silent VTM-4 failure. But if not, then I'd say his VTM-4 unit is still good.

Do you think that's a valid test?
 

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Might be - trying to remember what was said at the 2006 St. Louis Ridgeline meet about the VTM-4 rear end.
There is a video somewhere that shows testing the vtm-4 on rollers with the Honda Black 2006 RTL that they dropped the rocks in. It as interesting that the rear wheels no longer provided forward movement after the RL reached 19 MPH.

I wonder if the automatic cut off at 18 MPH is saving his rear end from burning up.
 
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