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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! I was curious what modifications you have done to your Ridgelines? Not talking body wise but under the hood mods.... Thinking of doing some stuff but was curious what others have done. Any responses are appreciated!


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Yup me too, but performance wise there is not much. Ive seen turbo on youtube but that is about it. Well also cold air intakes but I dont know if they really help.
 

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I was contemplating an Exhaust system, I've also seen the turbo Ridgelines on YouTube and such but I've got no use really.... Cold air I'll look into, see if it's worth it


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I was contemplating an Exhaust system, I've also seen the turbo Ridgelines on YouTube and such but I've got no use really.... Cold air I'll look into, see if it's worth it


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Please don't waste your money. In theory the intake and exhaust should make the engine a more efficient air pump, but in reality the throttle body is the limiting factor and neither one, nor together will result in significant performance increases.

Yes, there are many that rely on butt dyno's or sound to think their truck is faster, but empirical data has overwhelmingly differently. The most popular aftermarket intake results in negative 10 horsepower.

If you want to increase performance the best way to do that is to use 90+ octane rated fuel. Other than that you need to replace the throttle body and find someone (that apparently doesn't exist) to re-program your ECU after replacing both the intake and exhaust... but not one single vehicle has been documented in such a condition.

One person did try and add a turbocharger, but from what I'm told all he accomplished was a catastrophic engine failure.

Let's just propose a hypothetical situation. In the early days of the Ridgeline Honda could test the aftermarket intakes and exhaust systems themselves without much trouble. As far as I know not ONE, NONE, not a single one improved overall performance. One did slightly increase peak HP, but the low end torque curve was terrible.

Then there were a few companies claiming to re-program ECU's. These companies would not accept ECU's from certain areas in Ohio or California, so they used pawns. Honda would send out an ECU programmed to a particular VIN and then have the pawn send the ECU to these companies then return the "modified" ECU to Honda for testing. As far as I know not a single ECU was actually reprogrammed in any way. It was just a scam. The ONLY one known (at the time) to have been actually modified was the BAJA Ridgeline by HONDATA and that was done under an EPA off-road waiver. HONDATA did not accept any orders from other customers than Honda. This is all hypothetical of course. :)
 

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Please don't waste your money. In theory the intake and exhaust should make the engine a more efficient air pump, but in reality the throttle body is the limiting factor and neither one, nor together will result in significant performance increases.

Yes, there are many that rely on butt dyno's or sound to think their truck is faster, but empirical data has overwhelmingly differently. The most popular aftermarket intake results in negative 10 horsepower.

If you want to increase performance the best way to do that is to use 90+ octane rated fuel. Other than that you need to replace the throttle body and find someone (that apparently doesn't exist) to re-program your ECU after replacing both the intake and exhaust... but not one single vehicle has been documented in such a condition.

One person did try and add a turbocharger, but from what I'm told all he accomplished was a catastrophic engine failure.

Let's just propose a hypothetical situation. In the early days of the Ridgeline Honda could test the aftermarket intakes and exhaust systems themselves without much trouble. As far as I know not ONE, NONE, not a single one improved overall performance. One did slightly increase peak HP, but the low end torque curve was terrible.

Then there were a few companies claiming to re-program ECU's. These companies would not accept ECU's from certain areas in Ohio or California, so they used pawns. Honda would send out an ECU programmed to a particular VIN and then have the pawn send the ECU to these companies then return the "modified" ECU to Honda for testing. As far as I know not a single ECU was actually reprogrammed in any way. It was just a scam. The ONLY one known (at the time) to have been actually modified was the BAJA Ridgeline by HONDATA and that was done under an EPA off-road waiver. HONDATA did not accept any orders from other customers than Honda. This is all hypothetical of course. :)
Well spoken!
 

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This is the most important mod.
What's the deal with the radiators on these things. I've been getting a crazy vibration noise from the front end, like wind or something. I popped the hood and the damned radiator moves back and forth, like there's too much room between the mounts. Is that the problem people are having or something else?
 

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What's the deal with the radiators on these things. I've been getting a crazy vibration noise from the front end, like wind or something. I popped the hood and the damned radiator moves back and forth, like there's too much room between the mounts. Is that the problem people are having or something else?

Same here. Idk if it is normal or not. the peg on the radiator is about half the size of the hole in the mount. I keep forgetting to find a bushing that would fit in there.
 

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Hey guys! I was curious what modifications you have done to your Ridgelines? Not talking body wise but under the hood mods.... Thinking of doing some stuff but was curious what others have done. Any responses are appreciated!


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K&N drop in filter and exhaust of your choice. That's about it. My butt dyno saw better gas mileage and a little oommpph off the light.
 

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What's the deal with the radiators on these things. I've been getting a crazy vibration noise from the front end, like wind or something. I popped the hood and the damned radiator moves back and forth, like there's too much room between the mounts. Is that the problem people are having or something else?

Same here. Idk if it is normal or not. the peg on the radiator is about half the size of the hole in the mount. I keep forgetting to find a bushing that would fit in there.
It's been discussed before, It's that way from the factory, FWIW.
 

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What's the deal with the radiators on these things. I've been getting a crazy vibration noise from the front end, like wind or something. I popped the hood and the damned radiator moves back and forth, like there's too much room between the mounts. Is that the problem people are having or something else?
The radiator is supposed to float in its mount. The slop is normal and thus I doubt your radiator is the issue with your vibrations.

Look to your washer fluid bottle; most did not come with the upper mount plug in place and they can rattle up a storm. Check that your hood prop has a bushing in it where it pivots in the metal truck body. Check that your plastic fender liners are secure.

The issue with the radiator has to do with a failure at the connections where the transmission fluid lines attach to it (there is an internal transmission fluid heat exchanger inside the radiato.) Failure can be catastrophic as coolant can be sucked into the transmission leading to transmission failure. There is a ton of info on this subject in the forum so you might want to do some reading . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #14
K&N drop in filter and exhaust of your choice. That's about it. My butt dyno saw better gas mileage and a little oommpph off the light.

I do have a K&N filter in atm so that's done! Just seeing if an exhaust is worth if, but reading some of the responses (very well spoken) it doesn't seem like they are


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Discussion Starter #15
Please don't waste your money. In theory the intake and exhaust should make the engine a more efficient air pump, but in reality the throttle body is the limiting factor and neither one, nor together will result in significant performance increases.

Yes, there are many that rely on butt dyno's or sound to think their truck is faster, but empirical data has overwhelmingly differently. The most popular aftermarket intake results in negative 10 horsepower.

If you want to increase performance the best way to do that is to use 90+ octane rated fuel. Other than that you need to replace the throttle body and find someone (that apparently doesn't exist) to re-program your ECU after replacing both the intake and exhaust... but not one single vehicle has been documented in such a condition.

One person did try and add a turbocharger, but from what I'm told all he accomplished was a catastrophic engine failure.

Let's just propose a hypothetical situation. In the early days of the Ridgeline Honda could test the aftermarket intakes and exhaust systems themselves without much trouble. As far as I know not ONE, NONE, not a single one improved overall performance. One did slightly increase peak HP, but the low end torque curve was terrible.

Then there were a few companies claiming to re-program ECU's. These companies would not accept ECU's from certain areas in Ohio or California, so they used pawns. Honda would send out an ECU programmed to a particular VIN and then have the pawn send the ECU to these companies then return the "modified" ECU to Honda for testing. As far as I know not a single ECU was actually reprogrammed in any way. It was just a scam. The ONLY one known (at the time) to have been actually modified was the BAJA Ridgeline by HONDATA and that was done under an EPA off-road waiver. HONDATA did not accept any orders from other customers than Honda. This is all hypothetical of course. :)


Thanks for all this info, much appreciated! I'll pass on replacing my throttle body as my wallet hurts just thinking about it... Got a simple K&N air filter in right now, may be about it for me. Thanks again for this info, may have saved me so time and money!


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I have gone a bit more extreme. I had about 250k on my engine and although it was running fine I had the opportunity to upgrade the engine to a 3.7 from a 2009 MDX with 50k. So along with the entire engine I got a the ZDX throttle body, Pre cat deletes, J-pipe and intake. Truck feels better than it did new.
 

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There is also tuning hardware available for the Gen1 Ridgeline. If you are willing to go through adding an intake, throttle body and exhaust. might as well spend the money and have it tuned to make the best use of your parts. KTuner will make all your bolt on mods worth the while! The stock ECU will always adjust the AFR and timing based on an emissions friendly target (14.7:1) with a little bit of power at WOT. Unfortunately the VE tables for WOT are based on stock parts, therefore these tables would also require adjustment! ;)
 
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