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I know my first oil change will be a long time out as I'm only at 800 miles now, and yes I'm not having it changed until it says less than 10%.

At first I thought "Mobil 1 full synthetic for me" for my first oil change, but I've read a lot of good stuff about Motorcraft synthetic blend 5W-20 for less than $2 a quart. Also I was told that once you go full synthetic you should stick with it, is there truth to this?

I checked with a local dealer and if you bring in oil & filter they charge you $12, which I think is what I'm going to do. This way I can save a little, and you might say "why not just change it yourself"? and I thought about it my self, but this way there is a record of it, and if something should go wrong (very slim possibility) its on their heads.

Oh yeah where can I get an good oil filter for a good price?

-Thanks
 

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Do a search for anything oil and you will find lots of info on oil changes. Plus, you will probably run into one of our frequent posters, Joe (who goes by "cismo"). He has some of the really good filters left and sells them for about $8 shipped in half dozen lots. They are the Filtech filters and are considered by most oil geeks to be far superior to the usual Fram/Honeywell replacement. The Nippon is suppose to be good too but hard to find. These area all Honda filters but recently they have contracted out to Fram. Although Fram makes a good "gold" filter, most of their stuff is junk, including what they make for Honda. This lack of quality in the filtering process may not show up for many years, if ever, but guys that really know their filters have torn these things apart and know what they are talking about. The oil geek place is www.bobistheoilguy.com and is a must visit for people wanting to know about oil, lubrication and filters.

The Motorcraft 5W20 has received some excellent UOA (used oil analysis) reports and these can also be found at the BITOG site. Havoline is another 5w20 and is really raved about over there. It is a "dino" oil while Motorcraft is a synthetic blend. They both seem to do the job although they take a much different approach as you can see if you look at their additive package. For example, Motorcraft has little moly whereas Havoline is chock full of the stuff. This additive is said to help in the brake-in process and the Ridgeline factory fill has a great deal of moly in it (probably from engine manufacture lubes rather than from the oil). Nonetheless, it has been reported that Honda engines like moly.

Synthetics such as M1, Redline, Amsoil and a few others are very good if you go to extended drain intervals. Frankly, looking at the UOA reports, the Motorcraft and Havoline oils do nearly as well (anyway, how many people actually go 10,000 miles between oil changes?). If you choose synthetic, you can put it in any time as some cars come with it as the factory fill. However, most people say to drain the factory fill, do one oil change and on the second change start going with the synthetic. Either way, you won't hurt these Honda engines - their bullet proof!

BTW, invest $30 in a Fumoto drain valve and doing your own oil changes will be a piece of cake - and will save you money in the long run.
 

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Bob,
Pretty much ditto what shortspark had to say. I would, however, be wary of the moderators on bobistheoilguy.com. They can tend to be a tad bit sensitive of overly diverse opinions and ideas that don't conform to several "key" posters (money contributors).
I have about 1500 miles on my Ridge and am still thinking about what oil to use. Among semi-synthetics I like Motorcraft and Mobil 7500. For synthetics I like Mobil 1 (regular, not EP) and perhaps Amsoil XL. If I go with a semi-syn I'll do changes at 5k. For full syn I would do 6k or six months. I'm sure I could go longer but I'm a little anal about oil changes. And no, you don't have to stick with synthetic if you choose not to at a later date.
Filters? In my limited opinion the best filter for a great price is Purolator Premium Plus. Test results will confirm this. For a little more money and perhaps better? protection I would use a Purolator Pure One.
You really should just change the oil yourself also. It's easy and saves you money. Just keep all receipts and write down what you did in the book. Honda can't deny you ANY warranty claims for doing an oil change as long as you use the proper fluids and follow the manual.
Anyway, good luck!
 

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I use Amsoil synthetic XL i change my oil every 10k as we do allot of driving I have the ridgeline since april and have 11k on it already i have enough Amsoil for 1 more change then i will be switching to mobil 1 as its avaliable easier to me amsoil i have to order online and it doesnt pay to use it cost wise with shipping, I would suggest using a full sunthetic because semi still forms carbon and slugde build up something a full synthetic doesnt, the mobil 1 extended is what i will be using, 2 oil changes a year saves me money and time
 

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I wouldn't use Mobil 1 Extended unless you're past warranty. This oil doesn't come in the required viscosity per the warranty requirements (5w-20). Using a blend oil will suit your needs just fine and sludge should never be an issue unless this engine is prone to it to begin with. Motorcraft Blend is a fantastic oil and from what I understand contains a great mixture of base stock. UOA's of 5k and more have shown this oil to be high quality and have low wear numbers. For the very best protection and if you drive hard or do loads of short trips (no full engine warm-up), a full synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsoil would be best. But my bet is that because of the build and quality of this vehicle, you could put any basic warranty suited oil in this engine and with proper OCI's it will last well past 150k miles.
 

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basils - Your point about short-trips being hard on the oil ran a bell. I have known that this kind of driving is harsh because the oil never gets warm enough to burn of oxidation and stuff that a good 30 or 40 mile drive will do. This is componded if the temps are really cold.

I am retired and live in a golf course community. I drive my golf cart nearly everywhere I go. I do take the Ridge out to go to the gym almost every day which is about 1.8 miles from me just to get in it and drive. A couple times a month I will drive it about 40 miles one way to "town". Besides that, I may go a few miles for gas or bread or something.

So, I am "short trip" shortspark!!! I am interested to hear your thoughts on how synthetics will help us "short trippers" more than dino or blends?
 

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:) Shortspark,
I'm not the most involved guy with oil analysis, but I understand that most true synthetics have a base of oils that are called either group 4 or 5. Mobil 1 is a group 4 base and has a good additive that has proven itself in short trip driving. Amsoil XL is a group 3 oil, so it's not really a true full synthetic. But, Amsoil is still a very good oil and also has proven to be very robust. Redline is another good synthetic.
I think several things need to be done for a short drive vehicle. Firstly, and only my opinion, I would use Mobil 1 5w-20 regular synthetic and a good filter like Purolator Premium Plus. Next, as you've indicated, I would drive a longer trip of 45 minutes or so at highway speeds. Do this at least once a week. This will burn of some of the accumulated moisture and contaminates from the usual short drives. Next, be sure and change the oil and filter at five month intervals, regardless of mileage. If you do these things that I've suggested, I can so no adverse effects from the short trips. Yes, the oil will be rather expensive, but isn't a thirty thousand dollar vehicle worth a few extra bucks in top of the line oil and frequent changes?
Just my opinions.
 

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Thanks basils, what you said is very much like what I've been reading at the BITOG site. In fact, over at their forum they are constantly calling short-trip driving habits "severe" and therefore we should go by the "severe" oil change interval indicated in the manuals. But unlike most cars, our Honda book only mentions heavy towing as an exception and then only for the oil weight we must use (I think they want us to use a 30wt. oil instead of the 20wt. for normal service driving). Other than that exception, I do not believe Honda says anything other than go by the oil life monitor and change oil when it tells you service is due, or one year, whichever comes first.

But common sense tells me that although they do not mention it, there are some factors that should be considered and short trip driving is one of them. Although I believe HAL tracks short trips (based on temps and revolutions) and assess a "penalty" for them in their service chip's software, it still would be wise to use the best oil possible and change on a routine basis regardless the mileage or what HAL says. As you indicated, this thing cost too much money to worry about an extra oil change or two during the year, especially if you do it yourself as I intend to do. I also intend to install only the Filtech filters (got half a dozen and a couple Nippons to boot so I'm set for a while).

I think I will change the factory fill when the monitor reaches 20%. I may use Motorcraft, Havoline (as I discussed before because it is rich in Moly) or the synthetic blend Mobil Clean 7500. These are fairly inexpensive, at least when compared to the full synthetics. I will do this twice about six months apart and on the second go around send a sample in to Blackstone labs. That should tell me if I'm on the right track with my intervals and the oil I have chosen. If there is any problem noted, I will go to Redline, Mobil One or some 100% synthetic.

You know, while I'm at I think I'll tell you what some of they guys at BITOG have suggested to short trippers. They explained that a major issue to consider is how long the car is intended to be kept. If one puts less than 10,000 miles a year on a car it will be five years old before it reaches puberty! I hope to trade vehicles every five years as that has been my MO for many years. I have never traded in or sold one of my vehicles that I have put over 60,000 on. So, the engines at that age will not be hurt if even reasonable care is given. Of course I want the truck to be in great shape for the next guy but these Hondas can run on gumbo and still do fine for many thousands of miles beyond what I put on it.

Under this scenario of only keeping the truck for about 50,000 miles, one could also argue that going by the OLM as the guide to oil changes and using a good, name brand oil will do the trick in all but the most extreme situations. In any event, it will be interesting playing around and experimenting with this stuff - if I ever get enough miles on it!!
 

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Spark, sounds like you know just as much as I do about oil. And yes, you could run the cheapest oil off the shelf and still do well at 50k miles on the odometer. I plan on keeping my Ridge as long as possible....but who knows how long that will be, right? I'm really wanting to try the Mobil 7500 for it's lower cost than full Mobil 1, and the fact that Mobil seems to put a good amount of honesty and integrity into their product lines. If the BITOG site comes out with some poor UOA's on the 7500, I'll change to Mobil 1. I would use Motorcraft, Havoline, or Chevron, but I've just always trusted Mobil and haven't been let down yet. Amsoil XL is in my wifes CRV, but to be honest the engine seems a tad noisey with the stuff. Amsoil's marketing seems a little hokey too, and I don't appreciate that for the price you pay for the stuff. Their 2000 or 3000 (I don't recall exactly) line of synthetics are probably great products too, but at around seven dollars or more a bottle they can kiss my behind. So, next change will be the Mobil 7500 for my wife as well. I plan on changing my Ridge oil at about 5k, no matter what the OLM says. I only put about a thousand or less a month on it so in about three more months I will be changing it. My work is only about 12 miles from home but every now and then I'll take a longer route in order to get the oil good and hot. On weekends I usually take it out for a 30 to 40 minute run on the freeway. I do believe that Honda does have a break-in concoction in the new engine and by going to 5k I believe I'm allowing for the recomended amount of break-in to occur before changing. Any sooner and I'd worry a bit....any later and I'd feel like it's too dirty.
 

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you can use synthetic oil from day 1 zero miles mobil1 comes from the factory in bmw, corvette and a few other cars it will not hurt your engine it's a big myth
 

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I have a question. According to the sticker my dealer placed on my windshield, I am now due for an oil change. However, the dash display says that my oil life is at 40 percent. What do I do?
 

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The dealer placed a sticker on my windshield too that said the first change is due at 3750 miles. The manual asks that we keep the factory fill until the oil life monitor says to change it (when it reads between 15% and 0%). Most people here have indicated that their service due notice comes on somewhere between 5,000 and 7,000 miles, depending on driving habits.

It seems the Honda dealer wants to make a few bucks just like all quick-lube places that insist you come in every 3000 miles for an oil change. Today's engines and oil packs are much better than they have ever been so that 3000 mile thing is no longer applicable except under extreme or unusual driving conditions.

The bottom line is that I would trust the Honda engineers more than I would the dealer's service department. Like basils said, much over 5000 miles makes me nervous too but Honda wants you to keep the factory fill for as long as possible (per the oil life monitor), not some arbitrary figure the dealer sticks on.

Honda's factory fill, as I understand it, is an ExxonMobil formula similar to their Superflo oil. Most people believe that the factory lube used to assemble the engine contains certain lubricants such as big doses of moly. That assembly lube when mixed with the oil gives you extra protection during the brake-in period. Because Honda does not know what kind of oil you will be using, they want to make sure that moly rich formula stays in there during this critical period. If you changed oil with Havoline 5w20 or Redline synthetic, both of which have super high moly content in their packs, you would not have to worry. But some oils contain no moly and do their lubrication in other ways by using different additives - and they do a good job at it (witness the excellent Motorcraft 5w20 which has very little moly in the virgin oil right out of the bottle). In other words, there is more than one way to skin the cat and more than one way to lubricate an engine.

Having said all this, if you follow the dealer's advice and change oil every 3000 miles, you will have no problems whatsoever. I have never heard of an engine being hurt by more frequent oil change intervals than those recommended in the manual. However, it may not be necessary and you will be throwing your time and money away. If those factors are not that important to you and you'll sleep better at night going the 3000 mile oil change route, then by all means do it.
 

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evo4462, shortspark is correct on this in my opinion. DO NOT CHANGE THE FACTORY FILL OIL UNTIL AT LEAST 4500 TO 5000 MILES!! Pardon my caps, just trying to help you out. Honestly, the Honda manual is right about this one. I've read somewhere that the honda factory assemblers confirmed that the oil actually DOES contain a substance from assembly that NEEDS to be in the engine for at least 4500 miles. Why take any chances? I'm sure that no harm would certainly come from leaving it in this long, but from every Honda person that seems to know this engine, great harm can occur from NOT leaving it in that long. Don't listen to ANY armchair lube techs, just leave it in.
bigridge, you are correct that some cars do come from the factory, brand new, with Mobil 1. But the Ridgeline doesn't and Honda engineers must have a reason that they ask you to leave the factory fill dino in so long. Honda engines often outlast most others so I must give them credit for knowing what they are doing.
 

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Reason they dont want you to use synthetic i because they will lose money, if they figure you use synthetic oil you change your oil less often i change mine every 10k or 6 months usually twice a year, I have a 91 mazda 626 that just rolled 300,000 doesnt burn or leak any oil Mobil1 since 800 miles on it, my 96 maxima just turned 130,000 mobil1 since a 1000 miles and it also doesnt burn or leak oil, and both cars are daily drivers the mazda does 100 mile round trip daily and the maxima does 65 round trip, your not gonna hurt the engine weather you put the synthetic in at 0 miles or 10,000 miles


heres a little peice from pickup speaclities.com about moly and motor oil


Engineers and scientists have tried for years to use Moly in motor oils but they have been unsuccessful because they could not find a way to keep it in suspension. Once Moly was put into suspension it would gradually settle out. It was easy to see it come out of suspension because a black sludge would collect on the bottom of the oil containers. In engines it would settle to the bottom of the crankcase or clog oil pathways and filters.


On the other hand, synthetics are better on a number of levels. They keep the engine cleaner through improved sludge and varnish protection, reduce engine wear at high temperatures with more stable viscosity, protect the engine when it's running under severe conditions at high temperatures, provide better cold-temperature starts with faster oil flow at ignition and improve fuel efficiency.
 

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Bigridge,
As far as I understand Moly has and is being succesfully suspended in motor oils. Black sludge on the bottom of oil containers? Never seen it.
As far as synthetic oil, who is it that you say "don't want you to use synthetic or they will lose money"? Are you talking about the oil manufacturers or the auto makers? It can't be the oil folks because nearly every major company now puts out a synthetic oil. It can't be the car makers because several put Mobil 1 directly into their cars. Explain who you mean please.
 

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The dealers tell you not to put synthetic oil in the car, the service manager said to me he wouldnt use synthetic oil just use regular 5w20 oil and he said bring it in every 3000 miles for an oil change and you should never have any problems, i said sure i'll bring it to you every 3000 miles NOt, twice a year for me saves me allot of money
 

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bigridge, I wouldn't even give it a second thought what the dealers say. They only sell the cars and make repairs when needed. A 3k oil change isn't recommended by the Honda corporation nor is it by anybody that knows modern oils. While the dealer does indeed sound like they are just trying to make money by not recommending synthetic, Honda itself has said nothing like this. You should report them to Honda for misinformation and being deceptive.
 

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I talked to my dealer today and mentioned I was getting ready to change my oil. She specifically asked if this was my first oil change. I said yes, and she went out of her way to remind me not to change it to soon and let the factory oil go as long as possible (oil monitor life at 10%) Anyone that takes some website's info over Honda's recommendation I think is making a grave mistake. I definitly don't think you can drain your break in oil immediatly and put in synthetic. That would be very bad. I don't care what some other manufacturers are doing with their cars. Honda knows what needs to be done. I wouldn't second guess them.

My first change will be to regular dino 5-20 Valvoline with Napa Gold filter (guaranteed to meet or exceed OEM requirements and not void any manufacturers warranty). At 12,000 miles, I'll change to mobile one Synthetic 5 -20 with Napa Gold filter.
 

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This time the dealer is correct. But just keep in mind that the dealership that sells Honda vehicles isn't actually Honda. That's why it's called a dealership. So sometimes they can give you incorrect info on nearly any aspect of Honda products. This is why it's important to check your manual FIRST before you allow a dealership to say that you need something done. This includes oil changes and maintenance especially. I've seen many folks get work done on Honda's that aren't even scheduled for sometimes years ahead in the manual.
 
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