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Hi everyone, just thought I'd post up my solution to powering the stock subwoofer after changing out my stereo. My biggest motivation was finding something that was small, cheap, and easy to wire. I have a bit of electrical background, and had been eyeing this for a while:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177F614Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My biggest draw to this particular amp was that it has an anti-thump circuit in it so that you wouldn't get that loud 'pop' when the stereo starts. It could also be modified to become a mono amp that doubled the output. Soldering was required, but the contact points were underneath and was very easy to accomplish.

I cut two pieces of acrylic for the top and bottom. 12V is tapped in from an ig source from the fuse panel from the driver's side. Found a ground point behind the passenger vent. I also wired a switch to the left side of my stereo just in case I wanted to turn it off manually. The amp fit easily behind the driver's side center air vent. It ended up the be about the size of two decks of cards.

Overall, I'd say I'm quite pleased with only spending $15 for the sound that I'm getting. I'm sure you might get more 'base-per-dollar' with a different setup. There is a very faint 'slight' pop every so often though, but nothing loud or cause for concern. I've had it in for two weeks now, and I've heard it maybe 3 or 4 times.
 

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177F614Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My biggest draw to this particular amp was that it has an anti-thump circuit in it so that you wouldn't get that loud 'pop' when the stereo starts.
Does the anti-thump circuit work as you hoped? I see you have had some light pops.

The one I bought that was recommended in another post thumps each time the truck is powered. I’m thinking of trying the one you recommend.

Thanks
 

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Hi everyone, just thought I'd post up my solution to powering the stock subwoofer after changing out my stereo. My biggest motivation was finding something that was small, cheap, and easy to wire. I have a bit of electrical background, and had been eyeing this for a while:

Amazon.com: DROK TPA3116 Digital Power Amplifier Board 12-24V High Power Amplifier Module 50+50W Power Amplifier Chip with Volume Adjustment Potentionmeter Switch Support PBTL 100W Mono Output: Home Improvement

My biggest draw to this particular amp was that it has an anti-thump circuit in it so that you wouldn't get that loud 'pop' when the stereo starts. It could also be modified to become a mono amp that doubled the output. Soldering was required, but the contact points were underneath and was very easy to accomplish.

I cut two pieces of acrylic for the top and bottom. 12V is tapped in from an ig source from the fuse panel from the driver's side. Found a ground point behind the passenger vent. I also wired a switch to the left side of my stereo just in case I wanted to turn it off manually. The amp fit easily behind the driver's side center air vent. It ended up the be about the size of two decks of cards.

Overall, I'd say I'm quite pleased with only spending $15 for the sound that I'm getting. I'm sure you might get more 'base-per-dollar' with a different setup. There is a very faint 'slight' pop every so often though, but nothing loud or cause for concern. I've had it in for two weeks now, and I've heard it maybe 3 or 4 times.
Hi, can you helps how to identify the color cables and the conector that supplies audio to the sub?
 

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2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
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Hi, can you helps how to identify the color cables and the conector that supplies audio to the sub?
What year / trim is your RL?
 
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