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I would like to finally upgrade my stereo to an amplifier after enjoying speakers for a few years. I have a 2007 RTL and bought a Blaupunkt PNP amp that plugs inline with the head unit to use existing wires for speakers, after reading the fun people have had with the door connections, something I wanted at the time. I did a search and know that 5 yrs ago when I got this was somewhere here, but now can't find it. I believe there are outboard amps in the RTL which renders my amp useless. Is this true? Thanks.
 

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I upgraded my speakers and it took about an hour. Get a few extra door molding fasteners just in case. I didn't break any of mine but found a couple were missing.

I'm not sure about the amp. But I think If it works with the current speakers it should work with the replacementss.
 

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I have a 2008 RTL and there is no external amp. The 4 channels for the door/dash speakers and the channel for the sub amp are all internal to the head unit.

Two weekends ago I changed out my head unit. While I'm still having problems with the Axxess steering wheel control interface, I'm very happy with the upgrade.

Last weekend I upgraded the front speakers to JBL Components. These are great sounding speakers for $70. My crossovers are mounted behind the radio. The outputs from them are connected to the factory wiring which goes to the door speakers. I removed the factory tweeters and did not use the factory wiring. I ran new wire from each dash location to the tweeter output of the JBL crossovers.

This weekend I will install JBL GTO 628 speakers in the rear doors.

Because I read about the water in the doors issues, I bought some Boom Mat Baffles for the doors. After pulling the front speakers I found some moldy spots on what little of the speaker foam that was left. Yes, these did require a little cutting on the Metra speaker adapters. A small cut into the bottom of the baffle allowed the wires to run out the bottom which should stop all water from reaching the speaker.
 

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Thanks so much. Guess I can proceed with my amp/ sub upgrade. I was going to do a shallow mount 10" behind the seats, but am going to do a 8" with 2 passive radiators under the rear seats. Better bass output and deeper bass.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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I have no knowledge of any Amps at the stock RTL Speakers, many, many owners and many multiple threads of changing out the speakers, for aftermarket speakers. The biggest issue is once the factory head unit is removed, which has a 5 channel amp, when you replace it with an aftermarket head unit, you end up with 4 channels, and many end up bypassing the rear speakers to provide sound to the sub. Others use a aftermarket amp and the sub output(RCA's) and many even have successfully powered the factory sub.

There are over 200 pages, with 25 posts per page on mobile electronics, HERE!. Or in the upper right side of the page, is the Search Box, use the VB, search. Good Luck
 

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Thanks so much. Guess I can proceed with my amp/ sub upgrade. I was going to do a shallow mount 10" behind the seats, but am going to do a 8" with 2 passive radiators under the rear seats. Better bass output and deeper bass.
If you are going to mount your PRs horizontally, they will not work properly. Most PRs are weighted way too much and will not function properly unless mounted vertically.

These are not quality passive radiators.


These are quality PRs
Boston Acoustics
Madisound
Parts Express Dayton

Once you install these PRs, do you have the software and measuring equipment to properly tune them?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have no knowledge of any Amps at the stock RTL Speakers, many, many owners and many multiple threads of changing out the speakers, for aftermarket speakers. The biggest issue is once the factory head unit is removed, which has a 5 channel amp, when you replace it with an aftermarket head unit, you end up with 4 channels, and many end up bypassing the rear speakers to provide sound to the sub. Others use a aftermarket amp and the sub output(RCA's) and many even have successfully powered the factory sub.

There are over 200 pages, with 25 posts per page on mobile electronics, HERE!. Or in the upper right side of the page, is the Search Box, use the VB, search. Good Luck


I will have true 5 channel sound. The specificity of the question is because this amp plugs into the stock harness and uses line level inputs and stock speaker wires to feed the amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you are going to mount your PRs horizontally, they will not work properly. Most PRs are weighted way too much and will not function properly unless mounted vertically.



These are not quality passive radiators.





These are quality PRs

Boston Acoustics

Madisound

Parts Express Dayton



Once you install these PRs, do you have the software and measuring equipment to properly tune them?


Going with Dayton classic 8" with 2 Dayton PRs in 11" cube tuned to 32 Hz. Thanks.
 

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2104 Honda Ridgeline SE
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Saw that, nice set up but I bought this amp years ago and plan on using it. Seriously plug n play, no longer made, but super simple and well reviewed. I prefer the response of a sealed sub, hence the PR approach to extend the bass.
A sub with a passive radiator is a ported sub not a sealed sub. The Subwoofer DIY Page - Passive Radiator Systems

Using 1/2" material to build your box, you end up with 0.5787 (I did not deduct the displacement of the driver). Using mh-audio.nl - Home you need a single PR that weighs 78 grams. Since you are using dual PRs, you must double the weight on each to 156 grams to reach your 32hz goal.
 
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