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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm new here and just picked up my 06 RTL with 120k on it about 2 months ago. I've already done a number of projects on it, and have been finding everything I needed here and already laid out in steps heh. Its been great but now I need some input.
I'm looking for a way to get just a bit more clearance under the rear seats. I installed some subs, but the box was a little tall and it puts the subs fairly close to the bottom of the seat in the far back. I put some little white marks that are easily removable on each of the 4 corners of the sub (square kickers) and turned it up to operating volume and after checking, I noticed that it flexes just enough for the back of the subs to barely touch the bottom of the seat in the very back. The seat angles up as it moves forward, so plenty of clearance in the front. I already have cut out some of the plastic trim where the seat bar latches and have the box scooted up as much as I can but still need like a half inch to an inch if possible. I was wondering whether anyone had any good suggestions or have encountered this before.

I was thinking about putting some washers as spacers in between the floor and the bracket that attaches the seat bar to the floor, as to raise it up a little and hopefully it would pivot enough on the rear hinge to give me the space I need. Let me know what you guys think!

Attached is a poorly taken photo I happened to have that may clarify the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks like a not quite as tall sub box is in your future.
Haha I've considered it, but I just got all this equipment in and the box is already on the small end for the subs. I may look into other boxes in the future but right now its not in the budget. This one was designed to fit my ridgeline but apparently my subs are a little extra beefy up top. Just looking for a quick, inexpensive and somewhat easy solution so I won't have to worry about it.
 

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You're going to get precious little clearance in the rear by adding shim washers to the front (less 1 to 10 ratio, I'd guess).

Have you tried trimming your box?? I don't know what kind of box you have, but if you have access to get inside & build up on inside, you can trim / taper the area that interfers in the rear, even if it goes beyond the inside wall (that's why the build-up on the inside).

Might be easier just to build a new box...

Lastly, be aware that by "lifting" the front leg clips, you'll effectively also be excluding the 'latch-lock' aspects of locking the seats in the down position. They actually "lock" in place, separate from those clips (that's why you have to pull the latch to release). Not a big deal for some.... many just squeeze the clips when their latch fails (latch usually just needs lubrication).

Good Luck figuring out your quandry!

(did you maximize your clearance on the floor side???? i.e. floor coverings, etc.)

:)
 

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Can you post any other pics with a little more of a field of view of the Sub box.

If it was me, I'd try to reinforce the inside of the box in the back corner, then shave the outside. Or try just cutting the fabric off both where the sub seats in the box and the back corner side?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You're going to get precious little clearance in the rear by adding shim washers to the front (less 1 to 10 ratio, I'd guess).

Have you tried trimming your box?? I don't know what kind of box you have, but if you have access to get inside & build up on inside, you can trim / taper the area that interfers in the rear, even if it goes beyond the inside wall (that's why the build-up on the inside).

Might be easier just to build a new box...

Lastly, be aware that by "lifting" the front leg clips, you'll effectively also be excluding the 'latch-lock' aspects of locking the seats in the down position. They actually "lock" in place, separate from those clips (that's why you have to pull the latch to release). Not a big deal for some.... many just squeeze the clips when their latch fails (latch usually just needs lubrication).

Good Luck figuring out your quandry!

(did you maximize your clearance on the floor side???? i.e. floor coverings, etc.)

:)
Thanks for your suggestions Dnick, I didn't realize I'd lose the latch lock feature by adjusting the position. I figured adding washers was a long shot, especially with it having to pivot. I have removed all mats and such and am down to bare carpet underneath. I really don't like the idea of modifying/removing the carpet just because it looks odd and exposes the metal underneath, plus it appeared to be one big piece I'd have to replace if I wanted to undo those changes. I considered adding the washers under the seat mounts on problem side itself, but I fear that may be a safety issue. I don't like modifying the seats/mounts at all, I may just add trimming the box to my list of possible options. This isn't something I have to fix immediately, so I've got some time to figure out some plausible solutions and try them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
can you post any other pics with a little more of a field of view of the sub box.

If it was me, i'd try to reinforce the inside of the box in the back corner, then shave the outside. Or try just cutting the fabric off both where the sub seats in the box and the back corner side?
pic 1.jpg
The front has plenty of room, and the first trick I tried was when I added the wood under the front to allow more clearance in the back. It helped a little, but not quite enough.
Photo Jul 28, 1 36 09 PM.jpg

In this pic you can see where I cut away some of the plastic trim to put the box right up against the metal clips. Thats the best I was able to come up with before coming to see what you guys had to say =p
 

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Well, if it was me I'd have trimmed that box 10 times before trimming the plastic in your truck... but that's just me. Looks like you've got ample opportunity to get this to fit if you just trim the top rear (pointy) corner and the bottom rear corner. The top rear (pointy) trim would also have allowed you to fit it in there w/o all that plastic trimming, I believe. Oh well. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I wasn't a big fan of trimming the plastic either but its an easily replaceable part thats fairly easy to come by, and when we did it, I thought that would solve the issue so I was ok with it. Its also not noticeable when the seats are down. I did at one point remove the entire seat bottom, but then found out the seat material flaps around the edges without the bottom to lock it in place and ended up putting it back. Looks like I may end up having to trim the box, but will have to get some tools and such for it if I decide to go that way.
 

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You know the same argument that you applied to the plastic trim (can fix it later and doesn't show when seats are down), applies also to cutting a 3 sided "door" in your carpet where the box will sit (rear half of the space below the speaker), and folding it forward. This way you can just fold it back in place if/when you remove the speaker box, and not "too much" harm done.
I'm only mentioning it given your pliability on the subject of cutting things. :)

Food for thought. (but I'd still opt for trimming the box)
 

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yeah thats true, but I hadn't though of making a "door" in the carpet. =D I was imagining removing a strip entirely and that didn't sit too well. I definitely think I'm going to get someone to reinforce and then router around the edge so its closer to a flush mount. I have about 3/4 inch between the bottom of the magnet and bottom of the box, so I figure half an inch should be plenty of space. Definitely seems like the best option after hearing all the input from you guys! I certainly appreciate all the help and will be looking forward to participating in this forum!
 

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OK,

Looking at your picture, I'd see how much carpet/fabric is covering the BOX, then attempt to determine the thickness of the box material and how those two edges (on the back lower corner) are secured, glue, nails, screws, staples or some combination.

I think once your taking apart the box and routering the top edge, I'd see if you could router the back bottom edge too. Or Shave it with a table saw/skill saw...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
OK,

Looking at your picture, I'd see how much carpet/fabric is covering the BOX, then attempt to determine the thickness of the box material and how those two edges (on the back lower corner) are secured, glue, nails, screws, staples or some combination.

I think once your taking apart the box and routering the top edge, I'd see if you could router the back bottom edge too. Or Shave it with a table saw/skill saw...
I'd hope to not have to take it apart. According to the box manufacturer the box is made of 5/8" MDF and its wood glued, stapled, and then sealed with hot glue internally. At this point I'm just thinking about reinforcing the edges around where the sub mounts on the inside with some mdf strips, and using a router around all 4 edges to make the sub seat deeper in the box by about 1/2". If I were to end up having to change the overall size/shape of the box I might as well get a different one built because this one is minimum recommended airspace anyways. They took up some internal volume by making a place for the amp to mount, which is nice and all but I probably could've put it where the factory sub sits in the truck if I had to. Just makes it impossible to get to to adjust settings.

Edit: I've come to the same conclusion that user Dnick pointed out in his first post =p At first that didn't seem like the easiest solution but now after considering all these other options it is starting to look like the easiest/most cost effective solution even if I have to borrow some tools and a friend who is better at woodworking.
 
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