62caster, the other guys have provided some great information. There is absolutely no need to do the timing belt soon. You can easily go another couple of years and 30~k miles without worry. The spark plugs are going to be fine as well, but should be replaced along with the timing belt. You may just want to ensure that they are all torqued properly to 13-14lb/ft.
Even though the truck was "dealer maintained", it's always good to set a maintenance baseline. Do the tranny fluid, rear diff VTM-4 fluid, front transfer case gear oil and most certainly the brake fluid. DIY will save you a ton of money and this truck is extremely easy to work on. A few notes:
Engine oil: Many will tell you that conventional oil is fine to use and they are mostly correct. Synthetic oil does have many good properties about it, but the most important for a colder climate is its superior flow characteristics in sub-freezing temperatures. I have used Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra exclusively in my truck and it's fantastic. For a few extra bucks per 5qt. jug, synthetic is just a good idea.
Tranny fluid: the 07 came with the older Z-1 tranny fluid. The new synthetic DW-1 fluid is superior - especially in colder climates. If your father had this changed any time after 2011-12, the dealership would have used DW-1. Also, NEVER use a power flushing machine on a Honda transmission EVER. It's a simple drain and fill to change 3-3.5 quarts of the full 8.5 quart system. You may want to think about doing 3-4 drains and fills with driving at least 10 miles in between each change to get as much DW-1 in there as possible.
VTM-4 fluid: the rear diff uses clutches instead of a planetary gear set, so the fluid is more prone to breaking down - hence the accelerated maintenance schedule. If you're going to do this yourself, open the fill bolt FIRST to ensure you can remove it. If you open the drain bolt first, drain the fluid and then for whatever reason can't get the fill bolt open, you're screwed. For the change, buy a gallon of fluid from the dealership and also get a hand pump that fits on a gallon jug from an auto parts store. It will make your life much easier. VTM-4 fluid does not like contamination, so ensure you use ONLY this hand pump for this fluid.
Transfer case gear oil: The book calls for 80w90, but many use Mobil1 75w90 synthetic (including me). It is a closed system and the fluid doesn't get contaminated very easily. However, it's very inexpensive and worth it to just change every time you do a tranny fluid change. Get another hand pump that fits on a quart bottle and follow the same method as the rear diff.
Brake fluid: this needs to be completely flushed every 3 years. Brake fluid attracts moisture over time and can affect braking performance. As speed said, you should open up your brakes every now and then to clean things and lube up the slider pins. When you do this, you can bleed the brakes easily with a little plastic tube, a 10mm box wrench and the help of a friend or family member to push the pedal. If you've never done this before, it's very simple. I'm not a fan of pressurized brake bleeding systems and prefer the two-person method.
Other items: 1. Suck out your power steering reservoir with a turkey baster or something similar and fill with fresh fluid every now and then. I had an issue with old fluid that caused my pump to whine. A swap of the fluid fixed it entirely. 2. Being that you're in Chicago and have an 07, I would change out the radiator asap. The OEM Denso has the issue with the fittings that can be catastrophic. Look up "SMOD" on this forum to learn more. Many here go aftermarket and buy Spectra, Koyorad or Silla branded radiators for around $150. A shop will charge you about $200-250 to install it. 3. Check the support legs of the rear seats. When the rear seats are up, if the support legs stick straight out rather than retracting, you have broken pulleys. Honda made these out of plastic for the first several years of production before finally changing them to metal around 2010 or so. You can buy the metal replacements from Honda and, although a little finicky, are relatively easy to swap out.
Even though the truck was "dealer maintained", it's always good to set a maintenance baseline. Do the tranny fluid, rear diff VTM-4 fluid, front transfer case gear oil and most certainly the brake fluid. DIY will save you a ton of money and this truck is extremely easy to work on. A few notes:
Engine oil: Many will tell you that conventional oil is fine to use and they are mostly correct. Synthetic oil does have many good properties about it, but the most important for a colder climate is its superior flow characteristics in sub-freezing temperatures. I have used Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra exclusively in my truck and it's fantastic. For a few extra bucks per 5qt. jug, synthetic is just a good idea.
Tranny fluid: the 07 came with the older Z-1 tranny fluid. The new synthetic DW-1 fluid is superior - especially in colder climates. If your father had this changed any time after 2011-12, the dealership would have used DW-1. Also, NEVER use a power flushing machine on a Honda transmission EVER. It's a simple drain and fill to change 3-3.5 quarts of the full 8.5 quart system. You may want to think about doing 3-4 drains and fills with driving at least 10 miles in between each change to get as much DW-1 in there as possible.
VTM-4 fluid: the rear diff uses clutches instead of a planetary gear set, so the fluid is more prone to breaking down - hence the accelerated maintenance schedule. If you're going to do this yourself, open the fill bolt FIRST to ensure you can remove it. If you open the drain bolt first, drain the fluid and then for whatever reason can't get the fill bolt open, you're screwed. For the change, buy a gallon of fluid from the dealership and also get a hand pump that fits on a gallon jug from an auto parts store. It will make your life much easier. VTM-4 fluid does not like contamination, so ensure you use ONLY this hand pump for this fluid.
Transfer case gear oil: The book calls for 80w90, but many use Mobil1 75w90 synthetic (including me). It is a closed system and the fluid doesn't get contaminated very easily. However, it's very inexpensive and worth it to just change every time you do a tranny fluid change. Get another hand pump that fits on a quart bottle and follow the same method as the rear diff.
Brake fluid: this needs to be completely flushed every 3 years. Brake fluid attracts moisture over time and can affect braking performance. As speed said, you should open up your brakes every now and then to clean things and lube up the slider pins. When you do this, you can bleed the brakes easily with a little plastic tube, a 10mm box wrench and the help of a friend or family member to push the pedal. If you've never done this before, it's very simple. I'm not a fan of pressurized brake bleeding systems and prefer the two-person method.
Other items: 1. Suck out your power steering reservoir with a turkey baster or something similar and fill with fresh fluid every now and then. I had an issue with old fluid that caused my pump to whine. A swap of the fluid fixed it entirely. 2. Being that you're in Chicago and have an 07, I would change out the radiator asap. The OEM Denso has the issue with the fittings that can be catastrophic. Look up "SMOD" on this forum to learn more. Many here go aftermarket and buy Spectra, Koyorad or Silla branded radiators for around $150. A shop will charge you about $200-250 to install it. 3. Check the support legs of the rear seats. When the rear seats are up, if the support legs stick straight out rather than retracting, you have broken pulleys. Honda made these out of plastic for the first several years of production before finally changing them to metal around 2010 or so. You can buy the metal replacements from Honda and, although a little finicky, are relatively easy to swap out.
