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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short, I live in California but bought a new RTL-E in Oregon and have brought it home. The Republic of California insists that all vehicles new or otherwise brought into the state must be smog tested in order to register in the state. When I took in to the test station it failed for being "Not Ready". There are no component failures or codes it just isn't ready. The tech told me to drive it more and come back later. I have over 1650 miles on it under all kinds of driving. I've done the procedure outlined in the owners manual twice and it still isn't ready. The EGR component is what is "not ready" based on my inexpensive ODB-II scanner. Any ideas or suggestions before I subject myself to the dealer service department?

Thanks
 

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Long story short, I live in California but bought a new RTL-E in Oregon and have brought it home. The Republic of California insists that all vehicles new or otherwise brought into the state must be smog tested in order to register in the state. When I took in to the test station it failed for being "Not Ready". There are no component failures or codes it just isn't ready. The tech told me to drive it more and come back later. I have over 1650 miles on it under all kinds of driving. I've done the procedure outlined in the owners manual twice and it still isn't ready. The EGR component is what is "not ready" based on my inexpensive ODB-II scanner. Any ideas or suggestions before I subject myself to the dealer service department?

Thanks
1650 miles and it's still not ready? Was the battery pulled recently?
 

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Did you reset the ODB? There is a certain amount of time/or mileage between when you reset the ODb and when it can be tested.
As the tech said, drive it for a few weeks, then take it back.
 

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According to the service information, to set the EGR monitor specifically to "complete":

1. Make sure the coolant temperature is 176°F or higher.

2. Drive at a steady speed with the transmission in D at 50-62 mph (80-100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds.

3. With the transmission in D, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds.

If this doesn't work, try again. If it still doesn't work, it's time to visit a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you reset the ODB? There is a certain amount of time/or mileage between when you reset the ODb and when it can be tested.
As the tech said, drive it for a few weeks, then take it back.
No the battery has not been disconnected ever. I have not reset the ODB either. I have driven it about 300 miles over about 10 days under all conditions since the initial smog test. I would think that should be enough for all the data to be collected. My problem is I should (by regulation) get it registered within a week.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
According to the service information, to set the EGR monitor specifically to "complete":

1. Make sure the coolant temperature is 176°F or higher.

2. Drive at a steady speed with the transmission in D at 50-62 mph (80-100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds.

3. With the transmission in D, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds.

If this doesn't work, try again. If it still doesn't work, it's time to visit a dealer.
I'm sure I have done this but will do it again following those steps specifically. Thanks
 

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We have that stupid rule (emissions system "complete") in our wonderful state of Colorado. My sons always have to reset everything and drive around for awhile, like you have been told to do.

There must be something inherently wrong with your truck for the EGR monitor not to "complete," with all the miles you have put on the vehicle. I would just take it to the dealer without messing around.
 

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Long story short, I live in California but bought a new RTL-E in Oregon and have brought it home. The Republic of California insists that all vehicles new or otherwise brought into the state must be smog tested in order to register in the state. When I took in to the test station it failed for being "Not Ready". There are no component failures or codes it just isn't ready. The tech told me to drive it more and come back later. I have over 1650 miles on it under all kinds of driving. I've done the procedure outlined in the owners manual twice and it still isn't ready. The EGR component is what is "not ready" based on my inexpensive ODB-II scanner. Any ideas or suggestions before I subject myself to the dealer service department?

Thanks
Unrelated, but I hope you were able to take advantage of Oregon's no state tax when you purchased the Ridgeline.
 

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Unrelated, but I hope you were able to take advantage of Oregon's no state tax when you purchased the Ridgeline.
Automobile sales tax is based on the state where the vehicle is first registered - not where the vehicle is purchased. If you live in California and buy in Oregon, you pay California sales tax.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Automobile sales tax is based on the state where the vehicle is first registered - not where the vehicle is purchased. If you live in California and buy in Oregon, you pay California sales tax.
Very true, not only the state but in CA down to the county level, so in lovely LA county it is a paltry 9.5% I get to hand over to the DMV when I register, not to mention all the other fees. Can't wait to move out of this state, only good thing is the weather...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
According to the service information, to set the EGR monitor specifically to "complete":

1. Make sure the coolant temperature is 176°F or higher.

2. Drive at a steady speed with the transmission in D at 50-62 mph (80-100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds.

3. With the transmission in D, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds.

If this doesn't work, try again. If it still doesn't work, it's time to visit a dealer.
Tried this procedure a few times, didn't make any difference. Called the local Honda service dept. they provided a slightly different procedure which I tried twice last night, no difference. So I will call them again, but yesterday they were saying they would charge me $300 to fix it. I said this should be a warranty issue, so will probably have to argue that point more strongly. Still hate taking to them, my experiences with them in the past have been less than good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My latest thought, still being reluctant to take it to the dealer, is to disconnect the battery for a while to reset everything then go through the emissions setting procedure again. Is there any harm in doing that?
 

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So I will call them again, but yesterday they were saying they would charge me $300 to fix it.
Why? For what?

The EGR system is covered under the 2/24 Federal Emissions Warranty, the 3/36 New Car Limited Warranty, and the 7/70 California Emissions Warranty. This is clearly stated in the Warranty Booklet.

My latest thought, still being reluctant to take it to the dealer, is to disconnect the battery for a while to reset everything then go through the emissions setting procedure again. Is there any harm in doing that?
The only negatives I can think of right off hand are:

Disconnecting the battery will reset all monitors - some of which take longer to complete than the EGR monitor.

Freeze frame data that could prove invaluable when diagnosing a potential EGR system problem may be erased.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Why? For what?

The EGR system is covered under the 2/24 Federal Emissions Warranty, the 3/36 New Car Limited Warranty, and the 7/70 California Emissions Warranty. This is clearly stated in the Warranty Booklet.
My sentiments exactly. Her statement was that they would have to drive it to set the monitor and that was not a warranty item. I tried to explain that I had already done that and more. Will have to be more adamant with her.

The only negatives I can think of right off hand are:

Disconnecting the battery will reset all monitors - some of which take longer to complete than the EGR monitor.

Freeze frame data that could prove invaluable when diagnosing a potential EGR system problem may be erased.
That was what I was wondering about. I don't want to remove any diagnostic info that may help them. Thanks
 

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Though not G2 related, my G1 threw a code a month ago and it was my fault. Cleared the code and all systems were basically incomplete. By the time I reached work, 13.4mi away, all systems were ready. So almost 2K miles of driving is more than adequate.

If you are not happy with the said dealership, pick another. It has to be warranty work so who cares.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I bit the bullet and disconnected the battery to reset the monitors, there was no freeze frame data per my OBD-II. After some driving all monitors are set except the EGR, so no change. It's going to the dealer tomorrow...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I took it to the dealership. The service advisor called later that day stating that the vehicle needed to be driven at 6000 PRM for at least 10 seconds to set the EGR monitor, per Honda. I expressed my skepticism, as did he... He said they were going to wait to talk to the shop foreman before doing that process, so kept it over night. I thought about this over night and called the advisor, left a msg. asking them to check with Honda again, as it didn't make sense to me. The advisor called later saying it's ready, they drove it getting the RPM up to 6000 and that set the monitor. His explanation was that the VTEC feature had to be engaged for the EGR monitor to be set and that only engages at high RPM. They only put 4 miles on it so it wasn't a long drive. Go figure...
 
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