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I just installed a Pioneer AVX2700 and I love the bluetooth/wireless features, but the sound is actually worse than the stock radio. I am hoping this will improve with new speakers and sub. Any thoughts?
 

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I just installed a Pioneer AVX2700 and I love the bluetooth/wireless features, but the sound is actually worse than the stock radio. I am hoping this will improve with new speakers and sub. Any thoughts?
A lot more information is needed. What have you done to tune the system? Out of the box, the sound will be pretty terrible until you do many adjustments.
 

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Speakers and an amp will fix that.
 

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I just installed a Pioneer AVX2700 and I love the bluetooth/wireless features, but the sound is actually worse than the stock radio. I am hoping this will improve with new speakers and sub. Any thoughts?
There is literally no way the 2700 could "sound worse" than the factory H.U. unless there is something awry. Do you know how to check for speaker polarity? It's pretty easy, and reverse polarity is very common.

To check: fade all the way front, then balance full left and full right. If there is "more" bass or improved tone quality is more pleasing balanced to either side but lacks bass when balance is centered, one channel is out of phase with the other. Fade full rear and repeat L/R balance. If either front or rear is out of phase, double check the adaptor/H.U. adaptor.

Even with stock speakers, the 2700's EQ should beat the snot out of the factory H.U.
 

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Yeah it shouldn't sound worse. Go to te audio settings and mess with the loudness option, check the other audio settings. Also use 2 lines of srv I think it's what it's called, this option is available when on radio or ipod.
 

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What year is your truck? Did it have a sub ?

If you only changed the receiver and it sounds bad, it's nothing to do with the speakers.

Check to make sure it is on standard mode, and not network mode otherwise the front speakers will have zero bass coming from it.
 

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Also keep in mind that if you have an RTS or higher model and changed the head unit, you lose functionality of the stock subwoofer. If you're now only hearing sound from four 6.5" speakers and the terrible dash tweeters, I can imagine how you would think the sound is "worse". Make sure your subwoofer output is "off" for now since you don't have anything connected to it. Also ensure that the high pass filter setting is off so that the door speakers see a full range signal. For some quick boost in the low and high ends of the spectrum, you can turn on the "loudness" function to your liking. When you have higher quality speakers, subs, amps, etc., you'll likely want to turn the loudness setting to "low" or even to off and let the EQ do its thing. For now, read through the owners manual of your head unit. If you have specific questions, ask.
 

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I have been playing with the EQ and it does sound a bit better...I am going to get new speakers and an 8" bazooka next week. I am hoping this will be better. The local car audio shop is recommending Memphis speakers. Do you know anything about Memphis speakers?
 

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I have been playing with the EQ and it does sound a bit better...I am going to get new speakers and an 8" bazooka next week. I am hoping this will be better. The local car audio shop is recommending Memphis speakers. Do you know anything about Memphis speakers?
Mid-grade, or so, quality. From what I know, they're very power hungry just like most Alpine speakers. A friend of mine had Memphis speakers put into his Jeep. They sounded ok with proper tuning, but they weren't the best I've ever heard by a long shot. If you're not planning on amplifying them, I'd suggest Polk or even Infinity speakers for a good-value option. I have to think that there's some sound quality improvement yet to be had with using the many features of your head unit. Do you have any friends near to you that are really into mobile audio that could play with it a bit more? There's a lot more to it than just the EQ.
 

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I have been playing with the EQ and it does sound a bit better...I am going to get new speakers and an 8" bazooka next week. I am hoping this will be better. The local car audio shop is recommending Memphis speakers. Do you know anything about Memphis speakers?
Suggest you really hear the tips from IanRTL, laserguy & others above, and actually try what they are telling you. These guys know their stuff.
 

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Do you have a model number for the Polk speakers? Front and rears. Thank you!!!
There are a few options. Do you want to do a full component set in the front? That's a separate door driver and tweeter with a dedicated crossover box. They typically sound best when they are amplified, but there are some options that have a higher efficiency that could work. The other option is to do regular coaxial door speakers and a separate set of tweeters for the dash. The tweeters will likely have an inline resistor that serves as a passive crossover blocking the lower frequencies from reaching the tweeter. As far as the rear door speakers, many say you don't even need to replace these as the front speakers handle most of the sound duties. The rear door speakers are mainly just for fill. I didn't replace mine, but you can if you want to.

You never said what model of RL you have. That will determine if you have a stock subwoofer or not and also if it's now not functional. No matter what you do, you're not going to get great low-end bass out of 6.5" door speakers. It's possible, but it would require a lot of custom work and pretty high-end drivers. By the way, I assume the model of your head unit is the AVH-X2700BS?
 

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I'll give some quick EQ tips that can make the best of your stock speakers for now. First, keep the balance at 0 for equal balance left to right. Then adjust the fader to a few clicks towards the front. That's where most of your sound quality will come from anyways. Put the "loudness" setting to "high". Turn the "subwoofer" setting to "off" (being that you have nothing connected to the subwoofer outputs of the head unit). Turn your LPF/HPF to "off" being that you want a full-range signal going to all of your speakers for now. You can mess with the bass boost a bit if you want, but it's best to just leave it at 0 for now. Use the EQ to your liking. What I like to do is do a custom setup. Start with all of the levels in the middle, or "flat". Then, at a medium volume level and starting on the left, raise each level all the way to the top and then all the way to the bottom and bring it back to where you're comfortable with the sound. The frequencies on the left are the bass, in the middle is the mid-range and the right is highs. If you're not satisfied with the sound, I'd highly recommend replacing just the dash tweeters for now. It'll make a big difference in the high frequencies. Next, if the bass isn't what you want it to be, you can add an amp and subwoofer. Lastly, if you still aren't satisfied, you can try replacing the door speakers, but you likely won't get the difference you want from that without amplifying them.
 

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Great setup advice! (again and again... :)
 

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If you go with Polk, don't go with the shallows.

Moderate use of Quality brands sound deadener (30-35% coverage) will improve midbass sealing the doors and proper speaker ring door spacer sealing will help any speaker deliver better bass.

I would use the HP filter with any speaker, between 80-100hz, this will prevent frequencies below that number to play by the 6.5" driver, avoiding distortion, high excursion, abuse and damage to the speaker even with low power.

This is a good video, to get ideas of how to seal a door, no need to do 100% coverage of butyl aluminum deadener.

http://youtu.be/h3EXuHlBy4M
 

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If you go with Polk, don't go with the shallows.

Moderate use of Quality brands sound deadener (30-35% coverage) will improve midbass sealing the doors and proper speaker ring door spacer sealing will help any speaker deliver better bass.

I would use the HP filter with any speaker, between 80-100hz, this will prevent frequencies below that number to play by the 6.5" driver, avoiding distortion, high excursion, abuse and damage to the speaker even with low power.

This is a good video, to get ideas of how to seal a door, no need to do 100% coverage of butyl aluminum deadener.

http://youtu.be/h3EXuHlBy4M
If you're going to maintain the use of the stock speakers, it's not a bad idea to set the high pass filter to 80 or even 60-65 (or whatever setting your head unit has). The true low bass notes happen between 30 and 80hz, so you'll be lacking those without having a good subwoofer. I'm not certain what the stock door speakers are rated for as far as frequency range, but they're likely not going to get below 70-80hz. If you're not going to be blasting the music at all, it would be safe to run them at full range (HPF off). However, if you do want to listen to your music loudly, I would mirror laserguy's comments and set your HPF to 80hz.

The use of deadening material can greatly improve the sound quality in a vehicle, but I'm not exactly certain how much it will be improved by using the stock speakers. I would recommend only doing this step if you're going to replace the factory door speakers. You have to remove the door panel to replace the speakers anyways, so you might as well through a few layers of deadening material on there. Depending on the material you get, it can be costly. However, there are more budget-friendly options out there that will work. Some are complete crap and do next to nothing while others are pretty good.
 

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If you don't use deadening material anywhere else, use it as a speaker gasket to improve sealing and to snub resonance.
Another is cutting a square or round patch of several inches of deadening and place it on the inside of the OUTER door sheet metal inline with the rear of the speaker.
 

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If you don't use deadening material anywhere else, use it as a speaker gasket to improve sealing and to snub resonance.
Another is cutting a square or round patch of several inches of deadening and place it on the inside of the OUTER door sheet metal inline with the rear of the speaker.
Agreed. Even a small amount can go a long way.
 

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For under $40 including shipping you can get more than enough deadening from Knu or SDS, top deadeners for 2 doors spread out for 30% coverage, better sound, better dampening control and less risk of smell or material coming off, some guy from Florida even during the winter months and applying a material correctly with proper cleaning etc. NVX ( a sonix brand) came off sled down about 4-5 inches and even leaked outside the the door. Stick to quality names and you will avoid issues like that besides strong smell from petroleum based products.


If using loudness, I support my previous opinion using a high crossing point, we want mid bass, mid bass is from 80-120hz, anything below only with a sealed fiberglass enclosure in the door or with kick panels sealed could be all pass, in an open door with all that space even if partially sealed the sound may not be so great, boomy if cross too low and worse if using loudness ( only used to listen at low volume levels) . Your mileage may vary as they say some people may like it.
 
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