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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!
I have been trying to figure this out for 3 or 4 days now, I have tried putting the cruise control button (which does light up) into the VTM-4 slot to see if the light is burned out, it's not because the cruise control button didn't light up either when I had it in that spot. The light on the dash comes on when i turn the key to on, so the light isn't burnt out.
All fuses that I've checked are good.

Why does the VTM-4 not work?
I've tried it in R, 1 & 2. I've tried it while stopped and also while slowing rolling forward.... nuttin!

I don't know if the diff fluid has ever been changed so it's going to have that done next week when it's in for airbag recalls.

Any thoughts?
 

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Odd, the VTM-4 Lock button will only let you turn it on in very limited situations (less than 18 MPH and in 1, 2 or R gear). But VTM-4 is always working and is looking for the right conditions to transfer torque to the rear-wheels. If the VTM-4 stops working, you will get a VTM-4 light that will come on and stay on, which is to the left of your speedometer. So maybe the lock function is somehow not working, but you should only use that when you are stuck or when you encounter a steep grade with one wheel on a slippery surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)
Try pushing and hold the button for 2-3 seconds while in 1st, 2nd or reverse.
Have pushed and held for 2 seconds, 5 seconds and 10 seconds.
Nada.

Odd, the VTM-4 Lock button will only let you turn it on in very limited situations (less than 18 MPH and in 1, 2 or R gear). But VTM-4 is always working and is looking for the right conditions to transfer torque to the rear-wheels. If the VTM-4 stops working, you will get a VTM-4 light that will come on and stay on, which is to the left of your speedometer. So maybe the lock function is somehow not working, but you should only use that when you are stuck or when you encounter a steep grade with one wheel on a slippery surface.
I have no desire to use it right now, I just was seeing how everything in the vehicle worked, and I cannot get it to come on.
If we get a ton of snow this winter, I'd like to be able to use it if I need to.
 

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Kerrilane- there are several posibilities here- first check # 21 &18 fuses (under dash not hood fuse box), also there is a vtm4 relay in there which could be problem although they are reliable.Also could be a mouse chewed wire somwhere under vehicle (wires that go into differential), there is also a differential temperature switch that screws into diff and those somtimes go bad (about $35 and easy to change)- there is also a vtm4 control box which can go bad- probably could get one for not too much on ebay from wrecked ridge. Good luck
 

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I have been trying to figure this out for 3 or 4 days now, I have tried putting the cruise control button (which does light up) into the VTM-4 slot to see if the light is burned out, it's not because the cruise control button didn't light up either when I had it in that spot. The light on the dash comes on when i turn the key to on, so the light isn't burnt out.
All fuses that I've checked are good.
That may not be a valid test since the amber VTM-4 LOCK indicator is a polarity-insensitive incandescent light while the green CRUISE MAIN indicator is a polarity-sensitive LED. Each indicator circuit may use a different voltage and/or polarity.

Find a safe place where you can slam the accelerator to the floor from a dead stop on dry pavement. If VTM-4 isn't working at all, you'll get lots of front wheel spin and a flashing amber light in the instrument cluster. If VTM-4 is working, the truck will just accelerate without any drama whatsoever.
 

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That may not be a valid test since the amber VTM-4 LOCK indicator is a polarity-insensitive incandescent light while the green CRUISE MAIN indicator is a polarity-sensitive LED. Each indicator circuit may use a different voltage and/or polarity.

Find a safe place where you can slam the accelerator to the floor from a dead stop on dry pavement. If VTM-4 isn't working at all, you'll get lots of front wheel spin and a flashing amber light in the instrument cluster. If VTM-4 is working, the truck will just accelerate without any drama whatsoever.
Inability to achieve a manual VTM-4 lock and the malfunction of the automatic AWD system could well be two separate things. Hopefully her automatic system is functioning properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited by Moderator)
Kerrilane- there are several posibilities here- first check # 21 &18 fuses (under dash not hood fuse box), also there is a vtm4 relay in there which could be problem although they are reliable.Also could be a mouse chewed wire somwhere under vehicle (wires that go into differential), there is also a differential temperature switch that screws into diff and those somtimes go bad (about $35 and easy to change)- there is also a vtm4 control box which can go bad- probably could get one for not too much on ebay from wrecked ridge. Good luck
I've checked under the dash ones I'm fairly certain but I bought a multimeter so I'm going to check them all with that instead just to be sure cause maybe I pulled the wrong one or something.

It's having the diff fluid changed at Honda next week because I don't know that it's ever been done so I can ask them to test that temperature switch while they're there.

That may not be a valid test since the amber VTM-4 LOCK indicator is a polarity-insensitive incandescent light while the green CRUISE MAIN indicator is a polarity-sensitive LED. Each indicator circuit may use a different voltage and/or polarity.

Find a safe place where you can slam the accelerator to the floor from a dead stop on dry pavement. If VTM-4 isn't working at all, you'll get lots of front wheel spin and a flashing amber light in the instrument cluster. If VTM-4 is working, the truck will just accelerate without any drama whatsoever.
Both plugs have the same part number and just a different face plate ...
 

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Does it have an aftermarket stereo? I worked on a 06 RL with the vtm4 lock not engaging. Went thru all the fuses none was broken. Only to find a crimped wire when the reinstalled the dash after the stereo install. I dont know if that helps but good luck
 

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Have pushed and held for 2 seconds, 5 seconds and 10 seconds.
Nada.
While in 1st, 2nd or Reverse? The VTM-4 button will only work in those conditions when the vehicle is completely stopped.
 

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Does the cluster pass the initial switch on test? Everything lights up and then goes out after a few seconds before cranking the engine?

No CEL lights or codes being thrown?

zroger's test should be an indicator if the VTM-4 is actually working or not. But I'd try to find a dirt road to try it on. I've done the same when trying to confirm whether I had a silent VTM-4 failure or not (no, I didn't). Couldn't even get the truck to spin a tire on a dirt road! And if the VTM-4 has failed, not only should you get significant front tire spin (modulated by the VSA system) but also quite a bit of torque steer.

397835
RL instrument panel.png
 

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Just for my own edification, we are talking about the VTM-4 LOCK button which is located on the upper right portion outside of the cluster, right? Not the VSA button which is located on the lower left part directly beside the cruise control button? Not sure how you could possibly interchange the LOCK switch and the cruise switch, but you could certainly swap the cruise and VSA buttons being they're the same size.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited by Moderator)
Just for my own edification, we are talking about the VTM-4 LOCK button which is located on the upper right portion outside of the cluster, right? Not the VSA button which is located on the lower left part directly beside the cruise control button? Not sure how you could possibly interchange the LOCK switch and the cruise switch, but you could certainly swap the cruise and VSA buttons being they're the same size.
Correct


Does the cluster pass the initial switch on test? Everything lights up and then goes out after a few seconds before cranking the engine?

No CEL lights or codes being thrown?

zroger's test should be an indicator if the VTM-4 is actually working or not. But I'd try to find a dirt road to try it on. I've done the same when trying to confirm whether I had a silent VTM-4 failure or not (no, I didn't). Couldn't even get the truck to spin a tire on a dirt road! And if the VTM-4 has failed, not only should you get significant front tire spin (modulated by the VSA system) but also quite a bit of torque steer.

View attachment 397835 View attachment 397835
Yes, light comes on with everything else when i turn the key

Does it have an aftermarket stereo? I worked on a 06 RL with the vtm4 lock not engaging. Went thru all the fuses none was broken. Only to find a crimped wire when the reinstalled the dash after the stereo install. I dont know if that helps but good luck
Deck uses factory harness, nothing looks messed around with otherwise
 

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Correct




Yes, light comes on with everything else when i turn the key
So the VTM-4 indicator light on the gauge cluster tests normally, then turns off as expected. But the VTM-4 lock button won't light when you press it when the transmission is in R, D1 or D2? Is that accurate?

VTM-4 indicator
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397894


397896



VTM-4 lock troubleshooting
397895




RL VTM-4 indicator.png RL VTM-4 indicator warning.png RL VTM-4 lock troubleshooting 15-43.png
 

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Hi!
I have been trying to figure this out for 3 or 4 days now, I have tried putting the cruise control button (which does light up) into the VTM-4 slot to see if the light is burned out, it's not because the cruise control button didn't light up either when I had it in that spot. The light on the dash comes on when i turn the key to on, so the light isn't burnt out.
All fuses that I've checked are good.

Why does the VTM-4 not work?
I've tried it in R, 1 & 2. I've tried it while stopped and also while slowing rolling forward.... nuttin!

I don't know if the diff fluid has ever been changed so it's going to have that done next week when it's in for airbag recalls.

Any thoughts?
I've had a 2010 and now have a 2014 SE and the VTM-4 worked the exact same way. At a Stop light with about 6" of snow on the ground and the VTM-4 not activated, I took off on the green light and there was zero sway just progressing straight forward. I've turned on the VTM-4 while in 2nd gear and proceeded thru a long 17" snow drift...there wasn't even a slight hesitation. I've had several full sized Chevy & Ford Trucks over the years and NONE of them compared to my Ridgelines in all weather conditions.
 

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That may not be a valid test since the amber VTM-4 LOCK indicator is a polarity-insensitive incandescent light while the green CRUISE MAIN indicator is a polarity-sensitive LED. Each indicator circuit may use a different voltage and/or polarity.

Find a safe place where you can slam the accelerator to the floor from a dead stop on dry pavement. If VTM-4 isn't working at all, you'll get lots of front wheel spin and a flashing amber light in the instrument cluster. If VTM-4 is working, the truck will just accelerate without any drama whatsoever.
You have the most-fun troubleshooting tips I've ever read, Roger. :) Thanks!

(Also endorsing from experience…)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So the VTM-4 indicator light on the gauge cluster tests normally, then turns off as expected. But the VTM-4 lock button won't light when you press it when the transmission is in R, D1 or D2? Is that accurate?

VTM-4 indicator
View attachment 397893

View attachment 397894

View attachment 397896


VTM-4 lock troubleshooting
View attachment 397895



View attachment 397893 View attachment 397894 View attachment 397895
Yes, your exolaination is exactly what's going on I've tried to test the controller on the floor with my voltmeter but it's really hard to do alone when I'm also not even sure I'm doing it correct.
I tried grounding it in 4 different places while touching the red one to what I was sure were the right terminals, and got nothing.
When I unplugged the controller the vtm-4 and ! On the dash came on, and when I plugged it back in they went away.
I don't know exactly what that means regarding my controller, as it appears the cable harness leading to the box works fine since the lights come on when it's unplugged
 

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When I unplugged the controller the vtm-4 and ! On the dash came on, and when I plugged it back in they went away.
I don't know exactly what that means regarding my controller, as it appears the cable harness leading to the box works fine since the lights come on when it's unplugged
The GCM (Gauge Control Module - aka "instrument cluster") looks for communication from the VTM-4 control unit. If the VTM-4 control unit is faulty or disconnected or otherwise unable to communicate with the GCM, the GCM will illuminate the warning lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The GCM (Gauge Control Module - aka "instrument cluster") looks for communication from the VTM-4 control unit. If the VTM-4 control unit is faulty or disconnected or otherwise unable to communicate with the GCM, the GCM will illuminate the warning lights.
So then doesn't that mean that the controller/wires leading to the controller are working fine, if the lights come on when it's unplugged?
 
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