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A "VTM-4" light that appears in the GCM for a few seconds after turning the ignition on then goes off should mean that the VTM-4 control unit:

  • is receiving power
  • is able to communicate with the GCM
  • has no DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored
If the VTM-4 control unit detects a problem such as a shorted or open clutch coil or is being commanded off by a problem in another system, the amber VTM-4 warning light in the GCM should illuminate.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
A "VTM-4" light that appears in the GCM for a few seconds after turning the ignition on then goes off should mean that the VTM-4 control unit:

  • is receiving power
  • is able to communicate with the GCM
  • has no DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored
If the VTM-4 control unit detects a problem such as a shorted or open clutch coil or is being commanded off by a problem in another system, the amber VTM-4 warning light in the GCM should illuminate.
So the test with the multimetre and pressing the VTM-4 button (which requires 2 people), is a test for the switch, not for it to receive power in general?
 

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So then doesn't that mean that the controller/wires leading to the controller are working fine, if the lights come on when it's unplugged?
Terminal 2 (yellow wire) on the VTM-4 LOCK switch should have 12 volts whenever the ignition is on.

Terminal 1 (brown/white wire) on the VTM-4 LOCK switch and terminal A8 on the VTM-4CU should have 12 volts only when the VTM-4 LOCK button is pressed.

If these two conditions are true, then the VTM-4CU should be seeing the request for VTM-4 LOCK. As long as the transmission in R, 1, or 2 and there are no DTC's present in other systems that are preventing VTM-4 LOCK from engaging, then VTM-4 LOCK should occur and the VTM-4CU will bring terminal A16 and terminal 5 on the VTM-4 LOCK switch (black/yellow wire) to ground which should illuminate the incandescent VTM-4 LOCK indicator bulb inside the VTM-4 LOCK switch (because the other side of the indicator light should have 12 volts through the yellow wire mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Terminal 2 (yellow wire) on the VTM-4 LOCK switch should have 12 volts whenever the ignition is on.

Terminal 1 (brown/white wire) on the VTM-4 LOCK switch and terminal A8 on the VTM-4CU should have 12 volts only when the VTM-4 LOCK button is pressed.

If these two conditions are true, then the VTM-4CU should be seeing the request for VTM-4 LOCK. As long as the transmission in R, 1, or 2 and there are no DTC's present in other systems that are preventing VTM-4 LOCK from engaging, then VTM-4 LOCK should occur and the VTM-4CU will bring terminal A16 and terminal 5 on the VTM-4 LOCK switch (black/yellow wire) to ground which should illuminate the incandescent VTM-4 LOCK indicator bulb inside the VTM-4 LOCK switch (because the other side of the indicator light should have 12 volts through the yellow wire mentioned above.
I found a new switch on amazon for $6.71 so I ordered that. I don't have anyone around to help me test the wiring and for $6 I'm willing to just swap the button.
If it still doesn't work then it means that wiring must be cut somewhere which I have no idea how to trace. When I had the stereo out to try to hookup the backup camera, all the wires behind it were strapped together, there was nothing cut, so I'm not sure where the wire would be cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
...or the VTM-4CU could have a fault or another module could be telling the VTM-4CU to inhibit VTM-4 LOCK. :)
Just went to parking lot, put it in D and put the pedal to the floor, no spinny wheels. Both from wheels turned together, and vehicle took off as normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
IMG_20191204_144025.jpg
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Just for fun I did the gauge self test and also have a photo with the key just at "on" lights all come on as they should.

Someone has a control box they can send me for $75 + shipping. His truck is rusted out, but still runs and drives no problem so he's going to test the VTM tonight and make sure when he pushes the button that it comes on. If it's good, I'll buy it from him and probably his gauge cluster too just so mine is in km instead of mi
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Sorry. Been away for a day or so. See if this helps... and, do you have a factory service manual?

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RL VTM-4 lock troubleshooting 15-43.png RL VTM-4 lock troubleshooting 15-44.png RL vtm-4 control unit.png RL VTM-4 component locations.png RL vtm rear differential function test.png RL vtm-4 control unit initialization.png
RL VTM-4 lock troubleshooting 15-43.png RL VTM-4 lock troubleshooting 15-44.png RL vtm-4 control unit.png RL VTM-4 component locations.png RL vtm rear differential function test.png
RL VTM-4 lock troubleshooting 15-43.png RL VTM-4 lock troubleshooting 15-44.png
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I don't have a manual
.
Truck was at Honda yesterday and they couldn't figure it out, they want me to bring it back again another day to figure it out..
It only costs me $89.88 to have it there to figure out.. even if it takes 4 hours
I might just take it back.
I've ordered a new VTM-4 button for $6 just to see if that's it, but will try to trace all the wires.
When I unplugged the control box, the lights on the dash for VTM came on as well as !

I have some of the photos you've attached printed, but will check the others out and see if any of them help me
 
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