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Discussion Starter #3
I guess I meant to say,, 110.00 more for the RL Bakflip, than the chevy, dodge etc. bakflip. look at their prices..

t
 

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I guess I meant to say,, 110.00 more for the RL Bakflip, than the chevy, dodge etc. bakflip. look at their prices..

t
... and look at the design of the RL truck bed compared to all the others and the number of potential sales.... Cost of adaptation to the RL and less profit margin due to lower sale numbers...
 

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Then why not charge the same? The design is not different, not over 100.00 diff., and the argument to charge more because they will sell less is silly. I guess it is line with appropriating that image they use for advertising the cover on the RL. Yeah, maybe you are right, pay that premium over the others and enjoy the cover. Oh, and kick in some $ to cboosh at the same time.

So I'm cruisin' ebay and see this:


my first thoughts...
nice truck, looks like mine...

2nd thought... Wait! That is my truck!

That's a pic Itook last summer!

now...

I gotta be honest...

I'm a little bent he's using my pic...
without my permission...

to sell stuff...

any opinions on this?

(be brutally honest, I can take it!)

Thanks
t
 

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Hey, everybody likes a nice butt...!!! :D

Sorry...couldn't resist....
 

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Hey guys, sorry the delay in responding. The Ridgeline costs more for a variety of reasons.

1.The covers are made on a separate production line. They cannot be trimmed conventionally as the front panel is significantly shorter side to side and therefore requires far more labor to complete a cover. The panels cannot be connected and then trimmed in one shot like a regular cover. Each panel needs to be individually trimmed and then connected to the next which dramatically lengthens the time it takes to produce a single Ridgeline cover.

2.The Ridgeline rails need to be CNC trimmed, since they do not clamp on, but rather screw to the side of the truck bed through existing holes. These holes cannot be hand drilled, at the risk of the holes not being in precisely the correct spot. This means that the rails need to go through CNC cutting and then powder coating afterwards which increases the production cost of the unit.

3.There are also components such as specially cut plastic plates included with the cover that conventional covers don’t have.

All in all, the production cost of a Ridgeline is more in line with that of an 8’ long bed. It therefore ends up costing a little more than your average short bed cover.

Hope this helps!
 

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I clicked on this link, thinking you just had spelling and punctuation problems, and find out it's about bed covers. Jeesh. This reminds me of the time I spent all night wandering around a warehouse looking for loose women.:D
 

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Have been thinking about a cover for some time now and think this may be the one for me. Just one question though, where do the drain lines go on a Ridgeline?
 

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I'm not sure about the BakFlip, but with the Retrax, the drain tubes go through the two drain plugs in the front of the bed. You have to drill holes in the plugs to insert the drain tubes. I would imagine the BakFlip does the same. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Just check your instructions and they'll show you where the drain tubes go.
 

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The actual instructions just say to remove the plugs and lay the tubes in the open holes in the bed for drainage.

Another forum member (wish I could remember the name) showed his bakflip installation drilling the plugs and I followed his lead, and I think it looks much better that way.
 

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I have the bak-flip G2 and I think it works very well.

I also drilled the plugs and this solution works fine. Just remove the plugs and turn them over. There are a set of circular holes already molded into the plug. Choose a drill bit that fits the hole and drill them out. Clean up the top edge by hand with a larger bit or knife and replace the plugs. Since the hoses don't go down into the plug recess now, you can get a little bit of water into the bed from runoff that doesn't make it into your newly drilled plugs but it's not bad.

The only complaint I have with the bak-flip is the seal at the tailgate. To keep this from getting folded under, you have to open and close the last panel every time you use the tailgate. On some occasions, when everything is right with the world, you can get the tailgate closed without doing this but not often. Alternately you can run your finger under the seal and fix it that way. Not a big deal, but something I hadn't thought about.

I also like that the bak-flip can be driven in the up position if you have to carry a large item in the bed.

I took the bak-flip on a 100 mile off road trip over White Rim Trail in Canyonlands Utah and it held up just fine. It might have even kept out all the dust except the Ridgeline sucks up dust through the gap below the tailgate.
 

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ROC, do you have any pics? My Ridge is Amazon green so I'd love to see the G2 on yours to help me decide if it's the cover I want. Thanks in advance.
 

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I'd like to add my praise, too...

I just installed the BAKflip yesterday and felt compelled to post some comments elsewhere. http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/accessories/23396-bakflip-bed-cover-few-comments.html There seems to be several misunderstandings about this specific bed cover -- I don't know why. It's almost as if some people are "offended" by it, or something. I'm sure the Company would sell it for less if they could. In fact, to offset the perceived $100 difference over other vehicles, try looking on eBay -- because my Reseller bundled in a heavy chrome cargo bar and free shipping. That bar is easily worth $60 if purchased separately.

From what I can tell, the Company seems to have addressed many of the Owner comments for the greater good. They've obviously improved the product from the G1. They seem to have replaced the G1s under Warranty when an issue with the gas-assist support arms arose. Now they've added D-Rings, a second set of latches (maybe these existed before?), locking Knobs to eliminate drilling the aluminum support flanges, etc. All they really need to do is improve their website. A downloadable, decently detailed PDF with Installation Instructions wouldn't hurt.

I can sum it up for you...
Find T50 and T40 Torx Sockets.
Remove three bolts on each side of bed, and the brackets nearest the cab.
Replace bolt nearest the cab, just to fill that "hole".
Install side rails with the 4 new bolts.
Lay the bed cover on the rails and insert the 4 Locking Knobs.
Adjust for correct centering.
Add two small Self-Tapping screws at the Rail Ends near the tailgate -- Done!
All of 20 minutes, if you have the Torx adapters.

I feel it's a quality product.
I cannot compare it to any others from experience, but the ability to completely remove the cover section when needed is a real plus. You just remove those four Knobs -- no tools needed. And it folds and, I think, can be stashed in the Rear Seat area if you need the extra room to haul something.

Why it continues to garner some harsh remarks, I have no idea. I've seen soft tops selling for nearly as much (if not two-thirds as much, at a minimum). So it depends on your point of view.

A diamond-plate metal top looks gorgeous, but try removing it by yourself when you need to. Try carrying it home if your are out somewhere. Try riding with it in the raised position. If you love a Flip-Top and never need to remove it -- go for it.

A soft top can be sliced open with a simple knife. And I've seen friends curse snap-lock soft-tops for years as the weather changes, due to contraction of the cover. One advantage of a Soft-Top over the BAKflip? Perhaps it's easier to handle. Clearly its much lighter. But I do know I can lift the BAKflip sections and flip them all the way forward with one hand, standing on the ground. If that Soft-Top uses snaps or velcro, I think it would drive me crazy.

So I really hope you give the BAKflip an honest chance when you make your decision.
 

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I'm not sure about the BakFlip, but with the Retrax, the drain tubes go through the two drain plugs in the front of the bed. You have to drill holes in the plugs to insert the drain tubes. I would imagine the BakFlip does the same. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Just check your instructions and they'll show you where the drain tubes go.
.
So under those plastic plugs is where water drains out ? I must have a problem because when I pull those plugs out, the water is just laying in those little recesses like a little bathtub.

.
 

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I've had my RL for two weeks and have already installed (mostly) my BakFlip. Two things that cause some concern. The BakFlip was missing two star nuts when it arrived. I called last week and was told two more would go out the next day. Haven't shown up yet, but that is just minor inconvenience waiting for all of the parts to arrive. I chose BakFlip in big measure on what I was able to learn on this forum, including the $50 rebate for ROC members. I put "Ridgeline OC" in the message line, but I see that I was charged full price on my credit card ($795.64). For those that have purchased the BakFlip, could you tell me how you got the rebate? I was under the impression it would come off of my total before being charged to my credit card. Do I wait for a rebate check, or do I need to call the company?

I must say that I am impressed with the quality of the BakFlip. It looks like it will work very well for me. I will update with any developments. I will also "flesh out" my avatar and member info as I learn how - this is my first post. I've been too busy installing accessories to make the RL the perfect truck for me.

Thanks,
wi_q
 

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I came home last night and found the missing fasteners in a package by the front door. I was happy to get them put in, as I was refraining from highway driving until they were all properly installed. I still haven't seen the $50 rebate for ROC members. I'll give them a call on Monday to follow up. I'd still like to hear from someone else as to how they got the rebate. Check? credit?

I've gotten several more questions and comments about the BakFlip. It's a great looking cover and functions exactly as it should.
 

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Re: I'd like to add my praise, too...

I can sum it up for you...
Find T50 and T40 Torx Sockets.
Remove three bolts on each side of bed, and the brackets nearest the cab.
Replace bolt nearest the cab, just to fill that "hole".
Install side rails with the 4 new bolts.
Lay the bed cover on the rails and insert the 4 Locking Knobs.
Adjust for correct centering.
Add two small Self-Tapping screws at the Rail Ends near the tailgate -- Done!
All of 20 minutes, if you have the Torx adapters.
Two comments:
1. I left the top tie-downs on with the rails and the Bakflip G2 - it works, and I still have the tie-downs for hauling (which I do a lot).
2. I would like to find a better arrangement for the 4 bolts and washers - its tough for me to hold the forward bolt while underneath trying to place the washers and wing nut.

I'm glad I got the Bakflip!
 
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