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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just finished putting in a Kicker ZX700.5 amp in a 2011 Honda Ridgeline RTL with Nav. The amp is a 5 channel powering a JL Audio Stealthsub for a Honda Ridgeline and the stock speakers. I ran out of funds after Purchasing the sub, amp, an MTX Req5, capacitor, street wires, and installation cost, I had to wait on the front and rear stock speakers, but this was not a problem. I thought the problem was the speakers, but this setup is jamming and the amp was all I needed to bring the stock speakers alive. This setup sounded so good, that when I went and purchased a set of Polk Dxi6500 components for the front and some Dxi650 coaxials for the rear the installer at Best Buy, said leave it alone until the stocks blow, because it sounded so good. I then took back my speakers and I'm now saving up for some Polk Audio SR6500 so that I can really have a great starter system. Buy this amp and a sub, remove the bass from the front and rears and enjoy a nice system until you can afford more! Pictures to follow soon.
 

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Great info, thanks!
 

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I've got the OEM separate Tweeters & door speakers and after just replacing the Tweeters, the sound field was 100% better, and I found the OEM door speakers acceptable like you did.:act035:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update 12-6-2010 couldn't find the Polk Audio SR6500 anywhere, so I settled on a pair of Polk Audio MM6501 components up front and the Polk Audio MM651 coaxials in the back. Waiting on the 6501s to make it here so I can have them installed. The JL Stealthsub with it's 10 inch is more than enough for me. Now I trying to balance it with some good quality speakers. By next week everything will be installed and I will let you know how it sounds. I am definitely considering putting the tweeters in the sail panels, a little extra, but after spending close to 2 grand on this setup, why stop now!
 

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MMMMM, 5 star thread already! I do not know if I would give a star to this thread but maybe honda finally got the hint for the 2011 models, and put better speakers or different tweeters from China.

Just keep in mind that just by changing the amp and wiring kit would cost $300.00 just for parts for decent brands this is twice the cost of 2 sets of quality popular speakers and if you push them you may over power and blow the factory ones.
 

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maybe the 5 star rating is for the pictures of the box in the backseat :act002:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
maybe the 5 star rating is for the pictures of the box in the backseat :act002:
Upadte 12-8-2010 Sorry for pictures of just boxes, but I've been enjoying the sound I forgot to post pictures. Still rocking the stock speakers, the Polk Audio MM651 are here but waiting on the Polk Audio MM6501 to arrive to install.
 

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I would have just sold the cap.

What is the small box in front of the amp? it that the LOC you used? what kind is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would have just sold the cap.

What is the small box in front of the amp? it that the LOC you used? what kind is it?
That is an MTX reQ5, it is a 5-channel bass restoration signal processor so that you can get full bass response when adding amps to a factory system. No need to upgrade the $2000 Navigation system, its like a clean sweep but cheaper and it adds bass, No Bass roll off!
 

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That is an MTX reQ5, it is a 5-channel bass restoration signal processor so that you can get full bass response when adding amps to a factory system. No need to upgrade the $2000 Navigation system, its like a clean sweep but cheaper and it adds bass, No Bass roll off!
That kicker amp you have has speaker level inputs already, great amp, you just needed to make or get the speaker rca cables. Did you try it without the MTX box?
 

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Hey tryme, Are you still out there? I realize this is an old thread but I find it really interesting since most people replace the speakers first when changing out a system in steps. So, did you ever install the polks? How did they compare to the amped stock speakers? I came across this thread searching for someone who had installed the mm's in this fashion. I'm considering them for my RL and would love to hear your review. Did you have any difficulty fitting them? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I most definitely replaced the stocks with Polk Audio. I used Polk Audio components upfront (MM6501) and in the rear I chose (MM651). The difference is night and day. I do find that the tweeters are very bright even after a year of use. I really wanted to get the SR6500, because everyone agreed that they were the best sounding all around, but that model had been discontinued. Overall the system is very nice, the bass is nice, and I'm not inclined to do anything else to the system except add Dynamat. I will say the only thing that I may eventually do, is change out the amp, which after two hours of straight use, it gets very hot and will cut off, while it needs to cool off. This is not good on road trips, leaving too much time to think or having to talk to the wife.
 

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Mmm, that JL sub is making the kicker amp work hard and sweat
a lot huh?
That is strange. Maybe something to do with that cap or the mtx LOC hook up because that kicker amp should not have those issues.
 

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I think that amp doesn't have enough space around the sides for cooling. Although it is class D, it still warms up. The heat sinks are on the long sides, and it is too close to the plastic floor trim. The cap is also darn close to the amp's heat sinks on the other side. I suggest remounting the amp so there is better air flow where it needs it.
 

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Thanks Tryme. The MM series run at 2.7 ohms, could that be contributing to the heat build up?

Did you end up putting the tweeters in the sail panels? Do you think they would fit in the stock dash locations without significant modification? I'm planning on a stealth install. Where did you mount the crossovers? What did you use for spacers front and back?

I like that your sub only takes the space under the small seat. If I mount my amps to the rear wall, most of the underseat storage would still be clear... I have been planning to build a behind the seat sub box with either the Bang or the Pioneer shallow sub. (ED is out of the SQ-10 and they couldn't say when they will get more). Obviously, the JL would provide a lot more Umph...

Nice setup, thanks for your help!
 

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I have the exact same amp (I think). Great amp! 1) I've driven 13 hrs straight (except for gas stops) with music on and it's been fine, no cutting out. 2) I mounted mine behind the drivers side of the back seat. It's a tight squeeze, but it does fit, and it's right in front of the airflow ducts for the cabin. So if you take out the cap, you have way more room under your seats.

I also recommend adding tweets to your sail panels. They fit in very nicely and cleanly and it's a great location for them.
 

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I keep debating sail panels vs dash. I'd love to get some pros and cons.

The shop I talked to seemed to think the sails were a PITA because they'd have to fabricate something.
I had them in the sails in my 2000 CRV, because it was an easy sail plate to remove (clip) and drill into and glue my tweeters on, but in my RL, it's sooo much easier to just put them in the stock location, and because they sound great there, I never bothered with the sail panel location.
 
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