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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Purchased December 2005. On June 5, 2020, 135,000 miles Overdue for oil change (but used full synthetic) and overdue for differential and transfer case fluid changed. Most neglected the truck has ever been in its life. Headliner is sagging even though I got a $350 quote and found the matching material at a local upholstery shop. Life’s been busy.

Last night, June 5, it was very very wet. My step mother’s condo AC unit was leaking into her carpet and she needed a shop vac. So I drove over, shop vac’d for about an hour. Rainy. Humid. Steamy really. It’s been 90 degrees every day with evening thunderstorms. It was after 10 pm when I left home (no issue) and a little before midnight when I attempted to depart. Turn the key. Crank with zero combustion. WTF? I’ve had situations where I thought maybe it’s time for new plugs because the car starts a little bumpier than it used to, like a stumble, but never a zero combustion scenario. So I turned the key and it was a LONG crank before I finally got some combustion and off I went. It has been ok since.

I wonder if it’s time for new wires. Perhaps the moisture is helping the spark find another way to ground. Then again, I’m thinking in distributor cap thoughts. This truck has cool packs. So ... I guess I better use my code reader. That would be smart. Right?
 

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Keep is simple, I would start with the battery, cables, ground straps, all with exception of the battery are visual checks. We have coil packs, so no wires, and I don’t think there’s a distributor, but it might be time for plugs, they are either at 105k or 120k, either and you are over, thinking it’s 120k. Hard to research on iPhone and not home.

Lots of issues with non OEM plugs, they are either NGK or DENSO, again can’t recall.

I know you beat on your Ridgeline, but it obviously handles it, time to give it some love.

?Did you get it in Dec ‘05 or ‘15, little confused on that?

EDIT: wanted to add this, just forgot to...

403419
 

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Discussion Starter #3
December 2005. Did I write 2015? Sorry.

I checked the codes and got nothing. Tried two apps with my $12 obd2 reader.











I also took a video with water over the motor, and it doesn’t run so smooth anymore. I will post.


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The plugs were supposed to be changed with the timing belt when they rocked the motor forward to do so at my brother in law’s shop. I will look up to see if I can figure out what type of plugs he used, but I guess I could also just pull one of the front ones out. Right?




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Discussion Starter #5
Keep is simple, I would start with the battery, cables, ground straps, all with exception of the battery are visual checks. We have coil packs, so no wires, and I don’t think there’s a distributor, but it might be time for plugs, they are either at 105k or 120k, either and you are over, thinking it’s 120k. Hard to research on iPhone and not home.

Lots of issues with non OEM plugs, they are either NGK or DENSO, again can’t recall.

I know you beat on your Ridgeline, but it obviously handles it, time to give it some love.

?Did you get it in Dec ‘05 or ‘15, little confused on that?
Thank you! I updated the purchase date. I appreciate the spark plug type comment. Never crossed my mind. I was thinking more along the lines of the motor wearing or something stupid.
 

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The plugs were supposed to be changed with the timing belt when they rocked the motor forward to do so at my brother in law’s shop. I will look up to see if I can figure out what type of plugs he used, but I guess I could also just pull one of the front ones out. Right?

That looks a little rough, but how are the motor mounts, it one goes, the others will be working harder and fail too, on the OBD II do you have an RPM Gauge, I know we have it on the dash, but small fluctuations might not be displayed, remember Honda “Normalizes” the temp

Personally I would grab a torque wrench, pull the front middle and then re-torque to 13 ft-lb or 156 in-lb, the Common Maintenance Items thread says: Spark Plugs NGK (iridium): IZFR5K11 2006-2008.

That is the one which occasionally loosens, and fails. Something related to the radiator, or fan is in the way, you might need like 1 or 2 universal joint extensions or something, I can’t recall exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I do a lot of work on older Mercedes (like anything older than the 80’s) yet still don’t own a good torque wrench. I believe I’ve got a good enough “feel” for the right amount of torque for most situations, but admit I should probably have a good torque wrench (and don’t).

Thank you for the suggestions. I didn’t even think about the motor mounts, but still feel those are a more likely effect than cause for what I’m concerned about at the moment.

Thank you for helping me to understand my beater!
 

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behind the rear seats, you should have a small relay looking thing which is the iMOES control unit. Black plastic body with pink sticker reading Omron. If they go bad, then you would have similar starting issues (I Had it before). Easy fix, but hard to diagnose by knuckle heads at the dealership. If the unit gets wet or damaged, then the starting issue occurs.

Start with sparkplugs from Autozone or RockAuto, swap them out and move from there. I dont think its your fuel pump or ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
behind the rear seats, you should have a small relay looking thing which is the iMOES control unit. Black plastic body with pink sticker reading Omron. If they go bad, then you would have similar starting issues (I Had it before). Easy fix, but hard to diagnose by knuckle heads at the dealership. If the unit gets wet or damaged, then the starting issue occurs.

Start with sparkplugs from Autozone or RockAuto, swap them out and move from there. I dont think its your fuel pump or ignition switch.
Thank you! (I’m still rocking those general grabbed tires, only replaced one of your four tires so far, but am about to do a round of tire swapping and elimination...


This repair by my crafty friend seems to have at least tossed off the balance and doesn’t look like something I should expect to make it through summer heat...





Anyway, back to the topic. The non-smooth running is an ongoing issue, but in dry weather it’s been starting up just fine.

The fact is that it’s time for me to stop considering this truck as a reliable, go-anywhere vehicle.

I do keep a jump box plugged into one of the front outlets almost all the time to make sure I’ve got a little extra juice for starting if I kill the battery. So, sort of like “total consciousness on my deathbed”, “I’ve got that going for me.”
 

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Since you are handy, pull the rear seats' backrest and locate that control unit and inspect it. Mine was 'submerged' in water and caused the electronics to corrode and though it was hard to start, let alone start, in wet weather, the dry climate had no issues.

On mine: The water intrusion, or its possibility, was due to a screw that I drilled into the body panel to anchor my sub. I failed to seal that screw. However, I noticed no water in the truck prior or since, the repair by the dealer.

BTW: Those grabbers are some stout tires. Sad that it has a rip in it. The ones I have on now are too burly for my use nowadays. My next set would be to get all season tires. Enjoy and stay safe my friend.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Since you are handy, pull the rear seats' backrest and locate that control unit and inspect it. Mine was 'submerged' in water and caused the electronics to corrode and though it was hard to start, let alone start, in wet weather, the dry climate had no issues.

On mine: The water intrusion, or its possibility, was due to a screw that I drilled into the body panel to anchor my sub. I failed to seal that screw. However, I noticed no water in the truck prior or since, the repair by the dealer.

BTW: Those grabbers are some stout tires. Sad that it has a rip in it. The ones I have on now are too burly for my use nowadays. My next set would be to get all season tires. Enjoy and stay safe my friend.
Interesting. I couldn’t imagine having water behind the seat back, but will have to put this on the list of things to do. I guess my sliding rear window could possibly be leaking. It’s seal is all rippled and not tight on the glass.
 

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If you hadnt moved it or relocated the sensor, then it probably never got wet. Unless there is a crack on its body. Just like a typical relay, they are a cube with the bottom being open where the electronics slide in and out. So even if water was to drip on top of them, it never enters the inside (as long as the body is intact). Maybe yours just got old. Anyway, worth a shot from another unit from a junkyard, as it does cost $80+ from a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you hadnt moved it or relocated the sensor, then it probably never got wet. Unless there is a crack on its body. Just like a typical relay, they are a cube with the bottom being open where the electronics slide in and out. So even if water was to drip on top of them, it never enters the inside (as long as the body is intact). Maybe yours just got old. Anyway, worth a shot from another unit from a junkyard, as it does cost $80+ from a dealer.
I don’t know what I’m looking for, but was surprised to see how dirty this looks on this dry day today. Could the be getting wet from below?




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That is the fuel pump access port. Since it is open from the bottom up and the lid is supposed to seal, I can see why its dusty and dirty. I cant even imagine changing out the fuel pump on these, when the time comes.

  • Peel the black felt insulator back and expose the cross brace and pressure release valves.
  • Locate the Dr side pressure release valve and cross brace
  • You will find the iMOES unit mounted on it (circled in below image).
(Pardon the image as it was a test fit for my amp and subs back in 2011).

Inked2011-07-30_18-35-24_579_LI.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That is the fuel pump access port. Since it is open from the bottom up and the lid is supposed to seal, I can see why its dusty and dirty. I cant even imagine changing out the fuel pump on these, when the time comes.

  • Peel the black felt insulator back and expose the cross brace and pressure release valves.
  • Locate the Dr side pressure release valve and cross brace
  • You will find the iMOES unit mounted on it (circled in below image).
(Pardon the image as it was a test fit for my amp and subs back in 2011).

View attachment 403252
Thank you!

I was cleaning the truck to transition from beating on it with work for several months to having hopefully a clean truck for a while (taking clothes and food and stuff to the beach), and thought while the truck was empty and I had the time I’d pull the back seat. I thought everything looked dry behind the felt. So I didn’t pull it out. At least now I remember how to pull the back seat.

I thought everything up there looked pretty dry.

So do you suggest I get a new iMOES unit as preventative maintenance?

Thanks!
Mike
 

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Purchased December 2005. On June 5, 2020, 135,000 miles Overdue for oil change (but used full synthetic) and overdue for differential and transfer case fluid changed. Most neglected the truck has ever been in its life. Headliner is sagging even though I got a $350 quote and found the matching material at a local upholstery shop. Life’s been busy.

Last night, June 5, it was very very wet. My step mother’s condo AC unit was leaking into her carpet and she needed a shop vac. So I drove over, shop vac’d for about an hour. Rainy. Humid. Steamy really. It’s been 90 degrees every day with evening thunderstorms. It was after 10 pm when I left home (no issue) and a little before midnight when I attempted to depart. Turn the key. Crank with zero combustion. WTF? I’ve had situations where I thought maybe it’s time for new plugs because the car starts a little bumpier than it used to, like a stumble, but never a zero combustion scenario. So I turned the key and it was a LONG crank before I finally got some combustion and off I went. It has been ok since.

I wonder if it’s time for new wires. Perhaps the moisture is helping the spark find another way to ground. Then again, I’m thinking in distributor cap thoughts. This truck has cool packs. So ... I guess I better use my code reader. That would be smart. Right?
I had a 03 pilot that ever now and then would turn over but not start. Every time it did that I would stop let it sit for about 1 minute and she would fire right up. Don’t know if related but it was an old car as is yours. Are you using a fuel system cleaner with a water evaporator? Other than that it ran perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had a 03 pilot that ever now and then would turn over but not start. Every time it did that I would stop let it sit for about 1 minute and she would fire right up. Don’t know if related but it was an old car as is yours. Are you using a fuel system cleaner with a water evaporator? Other than that it ran perfectly.
Nope. Just putting in the cheapest regular gas I can find and filling up when the gauge gets low. I’m probably over 2000 miles overdue for an oil change but used full synthetic last time and the oil looks good still. I’m also overdue for transfer case and differential oil replacement. Otherwise, just regular maintenance schedule. I’m at 133,000 Miles’s. Still just breaking it in.
 
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