When's the last time you changed fluid . And are you using Honda tranny fluid?
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
noise help needed
2011 ridgeline 22,000 miles making noise when its at highest shift point, highest rpms before shift.
Noise is made just before the tranny shifts gears upon acceleration. goes away once shifted until just before next gear shift
its kind of a whine noiuse I guess any ideas what to look for?
tranny fluid good full.
Noise is made just before the tranny shifts gears upon acceleration. goes away once shifted until just before next gear shift
its kind of a whine noiuse I guess any ideas what to look for?
tranny fluid good full.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Are you sure it's a transmission noise, and not an air leak caused by the air cleaner housing or inlet from the air cleaner to the throttle body being left loose? Check to see if it makes the noise when raising the RPMs when in park or neutral.
sorry I wasnt getting notice of posts to my question.
It does not do it in park or neutral. I am not sure if its tranny or not.
Tranny fluid hasnt been changed yet 23,000 miles on it.
changed vtm4 fluid with honda fluid.
It does not do it in park or neutral. I am not sure if its tranny or not.
Tranny fluid hasnt been changed yet 23,000 miles on it.
changed vtm4 fluid with honda fluid.
Any other ideas to look for ?
Also smell anti freeze from front end. No leaks on ground and oil not overfull. Not sure if this is the same issue or different
Also smell anti freeze from front end. No leaks on ground and oil not overfull. Not sure if this is the same issue or different
Smelling antifreeze. check radiator.
All over, plus Hoses.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
All over, plus Hoses.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I have checked all hoses and radiator. See no leaks. Fluid is just slightly low in reservoir. Only thing I see a possibility of one hose clamp is rusted but no wetness around it
What's a good type of anti-freeze to put in it ?
What's a good type of anti-freeze to put in it ?
Possible resonance of something vibrating? I get that when my foot is to the floor and around shift point. But I do have a custom exhaust so I do blame that.
Everything is original.
I crawled under truck yesterday to see if heat shield of something was loose but found nothing.
I crawled under truck yesterday to see if heat shield of something was loose but found nothing.
Use Honda antifreeze. Honda DW1 transmission fluid. Honda VTM4 rear differential fluid.I have checked all hoses and radiator. See no leaks. Fluid is just slightly low in reservoir. Only thing I see a possibility of one hose clamp is rusted but no wetness around it
What's a good type of anti-freeze to put in it ?
You might want to have someone check that your transfer assembly has gear oil in it (has it, and the transmission fluid been changed recently?).
changed one time tranny fluid today, still same noise. gear lube also changed, and oil changed which was 40% good still on dash.
also changed clamp on bottom hose that was rusty and added antifreeze. CHecked for loose guards, covers etc. nothing.
I still have noise when just before shifting. cant quit make sounds like sort of a whine. on avg acceleration it will do it approx 15 mph and then again at 30mph there is higher speed it does it also but dont remember speed.
shift points right after this.
also changed clamp on bottom hose that was rusty and added antifreeze. CHecked for loose guards, covers etc. nothing.
I still have noise when just before shifting. cant quit make sounds like sort of a whine. on avg acceleration it will do it approx 15 mph and then again at 30mph there is higher speed it does it also but dont remember speed.
shift points right after this.
any ideas to check next?
Check if the noise is at a certain rpm under load. Or is it only when transmission is changing gear. Best way to test it is to put transmission in 2nd and acceleration to 5000rpm. If you hear the noise at the top of 2nd it may not be the transmission shifting making the noise. It maybe a noisy pully bearing that only makes noise at a certain rpm under load.
ok, might be on to something, I ran truck in 2nd gear, heard noise at 3000rpms and stopped shortly after that.
I ran truck in drive, accelerated real slow not to hit 3000rpms and no noise at shift points.
now to try to figure out which pully
any ideas of common one to go bad ?
I ran truck in drive, accelerated real slow not to hit 3000rpms and no noise at shift points.
now to try to figure out which pully
any ideas of common one to go bad ?
OK so it shouldn't be the transmission. Maybe try spraying the alternator belt and pulleys with a lubricant and test for the noise again. If the noise persists try test after turning on and off the ac and listen for a change in the noise. If there is a noise change chances are the problem is something connected to alternator belt. So a pulley or belt. Let us know your results.
No offense intended Gerthebear, but... it is not a good idea to spray "lubricant" onto the serpentine belt (perhaps you just meant water).OK so it shouldn't be the transmission. Maybe try spraying the alternator belt and pulleys with a lubricant and test for the noise again. If the noise persists try test after turning on and off the ac and listen for a change in the noise. If there is a noise change chances are the problem is something connected to alternator belt. So a pulley or belt. Let us know your results.
To the OP... This is a last resort thing to check. I have had noises caused by small stones, etc., collecting on the heat shields of the catalytic converters. Crawl under there and reach up (with gloves on) and try to scrape the inside of the heat shields. You might also have a weld that has gone bad on one of the heat shields, which will cause noise from vibration at the right RPM.
I have also had noises caused by the backing plates on the brakes (rust). I just gently tapped them with a rubber hammer, and you wouldn't believe the crud that fell off. You might try tapping the heat shields with a rubber hammer too (gently).
reaching for straws here...
I checked all the heat shields and found nothing loose. I am going to check pulleys and belts better this weekend.
It dont seem to make noise when I ease thru gears. but if I accelerate mid accelerate it will do on first shift around 3000rpm and again when hits 3000 rpm which at approx 30 mph it makes noise and if still under mid heavy acceleration it will make noise again at approx 3000rpm but not sure speed on this one.
thinking not tranny but need to check belts and pulleys to be sure.
It dont seem to make noise when I ease thru gears. but if I accelerate mid accelerate it will do on first shift around 3000rpm and again when hits 3000 rpm which at approx 30 mph it makes noise and if still under mid heavy acceleration it will make noise again at approx 3000rpm but not sure speed on this one.
thinking not tranny but need to check belts and pulleys to be sure.
Try this.
On your next refuel, refuel with the highest Octane you can find (not afford/pay for). See if the noise comes up. My '10 RL always has this 'ping', which is attributed to 'spontaneous ignition/detonation' as the engine is under high load, but is running lean & hot for fuel to combust before the piston reaching its TDC. If that is the case, there is nothing much to do, but to stay off sudden accelerations whereby putting the engine under load and winding it up to its redline.
If the problem still exists, then it is wise to take it to a trusted mechanic/dealer to get an expert advice. I would advise strongly against spraying anything anywhere without proper diagnosis. Belt dressing is not a good item to use on any modern consumer/non-commercial type vehicles.
At 22K miles, the truck is still a baby. I have 188K miles on my truck and about 70K miles ago, I changed the timing belt along with the drive belts. At that point, it is also advised to change the water-pump and rightfully, you should change it out. I would go to a dealer to do it, as they do warranty the work they do and sometimes, with sales and deals, you may end up paying a lot less than what you may pay elsewhere. They will also change out the idler pulley at that point, which you need to do as well. Mind you, water pump and idler pulley are extra and not part of the timing belt change, but it is wise to change them up.
Have the mechanics inspect the belts for any premature wear, which can happen on the age of the trunk (even though the mileage is less).
On your next refuel, refuel with the highest Octane you can find (not afford/pay for). See if the noise comes up. My '10 RL always has this 'ping', which is attributed to 'spontaneous ignition/detonation' as the engine is under high load, but is running lean & hot for fuel to combust before the piston reaching its TDC. If that is the case, there is nothing much to do, but to stay off sudden accelerations whereby putting the engine under load and winding it up to its redline.
If the problem still exists, then it is wise to take it to a trusted mechanic/dealer to get an expert advice. I would advise strongly against spraying anything anywhere without proper diagnosis. Belt dressing is not a good item to use on any modern consumer/non-commercial type vehicles.
At 22K miles, the truck is still a baby. I have 188K miles on my truck and about 70K miles ago, I changed the timing belt along with the drive belts. At that point, it is also advised to change the water-pump and rightfully, you should change it out. I would go to a dealer to do it, as they do warranty the work they do and sometimes, with sales and deals, you may end up paying a lot less than what you may pay elsewhere. They will also change out the idler pulley at that point, which you need to do as well. Mind you, water pump and idler pulley are extra and not part of the timing belt change, but it is wise to change them up.
Have the mechanics inspect the belts for any premature wear, which can happen on the age of the trunk (even though the mileage is less).
Do you deal with rust at all?
Ok, so with only 22k on the truck you should not have any rusted cat shields, but it's easy enough to check. Rubber mallet, tap your cat shields lightly. If the are loose or have a broken weld they well rattle. If you have a rattle somewhere it well make different noises at different speeds. Make sure all your exhaust hangers are good. One that is broken can make the exhaust resonate strangely. Make sure all fluids are full. I'm a strong advocate for using ALL OEM fluids. The Honda antifreeze keeps the cooling systems much cleaner then even the best aftermarket. (I was building a 1980 Accord engine to install in a 79 Civic hatch. With the help of a Honda tech. Had engine in car everything done except antifreeze, he asked me if I had any, I said yes Prestone. He said no. After being a Honda tech for years he said every Honda he worked on the cooling system maintained with Honda antifreeze was just that much cleaner then ones that had any other brand fluid in it.) And yes that was MANY years ago.) To this day I just use Honda fluids. Especially with my 2010 RTL.
I've got about 75k on it now and she runs like a sewing machine. I have changed ALL fluids twice now, way before Honda wants them changed .
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I've got about 75k on it now and she runs like a sewing machine. I have changed ALL fluids twice now, way before Honda wants them changed .
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums
Honda Ridgeline Owners Club, forum community to discuss reviews, accessories, performance, care, mods, and more.
Full Forum Listing
