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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I haven't looked at brake light switches in forever, but in the old days they were just a momentary pressure (plunger) switch located right behind the arm that holds the brake pedal. Push down on the pedal and the arm pushes the little plunger switch in to make contact, complete the circuit and light up the brake lights. That is where I would start looking.
I thought maybe if the switch is on the passenger side that our 13 week golden retriever had gotten under there without us noticing, but he definitely did not get to the driver's side.

The question is, what were they doing up under your dash that they broke the brake light switch? Maybe when they went to read the codes for their "inspection" report?
That's what I would like to know. They are quoting almost $150 to repair that.

The thing is, everything was fine until I took the Ridgeline to them. Now, after they've worked on it, there seems to be a domino effect of problems.
 

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That's what I would like to know. They are quoting almost $150 to repair that.

The thing is, everything was fine until I took the Ridgeline to them. Now, after they've worked on it, there seems to be a domino effect of problems.
Yes, it seems really odd that the brake switch would be physically damaged after you took it to them, causing warning lights that weren't there before. I would be talking to a manager/owner. That is crazy. Good luck, hope it gets sorted out quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I just visited the tire shop. They've replaced the broken brake switch, installed the new battery, and cleared the warning codes. The brake lights aren't constantly on now, but all the dash warnings from yesterday remain.

I had a conversation with the owner and asked how it's possible that the truck was fine until they swapped the tires and now there are piles of warnings and a broken brake switch. His answer: bad luck. And he wanted me to explain how they could have caused the problems. (I answered that I can answer that question about my areas of expertise, but he needs to answer it about his.) They want to run diagnostics but that will take time and I need the vehicle every day. He brought up that I could take it to a dealer for diagnostics.

Here's what the broken brake switch looks like. Can this really just be bad luck, together with the other warnings? It looks like it would take some force to break that plastic, and no one/nothing has been under the dash that would cause that.

I've had some poor experiences with this shop in the past, so I don't fully trust them. They've done things like quoting 2x-3x more than other shops for the same work, recommended work that other shops said weren't necessary -- that sort of thing.

Azure Material property Circuit component Electric blue Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The tire shop just called back. They took the Ridgeline for a road test and it's now doing other wonky things, like braking when it shouldn't. So the tech thinks the brake switch they just installed is defective OR this truck has major electrical issues. They've ordered an OEM switch from Honda that will arrive tomorrow. Fortunately, they've offered me the use of their shop truck until then.

If anyone has more thoughts on this situation, I'd appreciate hearing them. I'm not much of a car guy.

Who would have thought that putting on winter tires would turn into a whole thing?
 

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I've had some poor experiences with this shop in the past, so I don't fully trust them. They've done things like quoting 2x-3x more than other shops for the same work, recommended work that other shops said weren't necessary -- that sort of thing.
This tells me your a more patient person that I. Screw me once, that on you, SCREW ME TWICE, well that's on me!

At this point I'd just have it towed to the dealer and let them straighten it out, if it's a large bill, small claims to the local shop and go from there. But it's your vehicle so you choose!
 

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It locks in to a bracket near the brake pedal bracket, if I'm not mistaken.

I've seen other posts where it had become partially detached by the driver's foot when stretching or repositioning. This caused the switch to operate intermittently. If it fully detaches, it wouldn't operate at all.

Best to take a peek under there and see where it's mounted, so you will be conscious of how to avoid contacting it in the future.
 

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Hmmm, it seems like those guys might have stretched a wheel sensor wire or broken the actual sensor. It would explain the codes.
 

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Hi everyone,

I have a 2017 Honda Ridgeline Sport that's been very good. No issues whatsoever until today.

This morning I had winter tires installed by a large regional tire shop. The owner of the tire shop recommended installing 245/65R17 107S tires instead of the 245/60R18 105H that were installed and are recommended.

After less than 10 kilometers of driving (just a few minutes later), the Ridgeline started showing piles of errors.
  • Road Departure Mitigation System Problem
  • Adaptive Cruise Control Problem
  • Hill Start Assist Problem
  • Trailer Stability Assist Problem
  • Collision Mitigation System Problem
  • Power Steering System (EPS) Problem
  • Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) Problem
I called the tire shop right away. First they claimed that the warnings were already present when I dropped off the vehicle. (They were definitely not. I've never had an warning other than oil change reminders or low tire pressure. Fortunately, their own "inspection" report that they email automatically confirms that the warnings were not present.) They got back to me after the shop closed saying they will "scan the vehicle" if I take it back tomorrow.

How should I handle this?

Could these warnings be caused by the change in tire/wheel size?

Is it safe to continue driving the vehicle for now?

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Looks like low battery voltage. Common with 16+ Honda's. Once battery drops below 10.8v it sets off lights for most safety support systems. Signals a communication loss to gauge cluster, infotainment, vsa, eps, pgmfi. Test then charge or replace the battery. Drive the vehicle for a mile/km which ever you do. Then turn it off & restart. Everything should clear out once the voltage situation is fixed.
 

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I would seriously doubt that that brake light switch provides any feedback to the computers involved in the braking system. Basically all it is in charge of is turning on and off the brake lights. I would be really surprised if the switch is the culprit when it comes to wonky braking behavior.
 

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@FrostyOfTheNorth The unexpected braking could be a symptom of the malfunctioning emergency breaking system. One thing to look at if you haven't yet would be the fuses for affected systems. A blown or loose fuse could easily cause the issues that you've described (well, except for the broken brake light switch, that was probably caused by a clumsy, big-footed technician).

As others have mentioned, I really think you should take your truck to another reputable mechanic for a second opinion. This shop seems more interested in playing the blame game rather than actually diagnosing and fixing the problem.
 

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Hi everyone,

I have a 2017 Honda Ridgeline Sport that's been very good. No issues whatsoever until today.

This morning I had winter tires installed by a large regional tire shop. The owner of the tire shop recommended installing 245/65R17 107S tires instead of the 245/60R18 105H that were installed and are recommended.

After less than 10 kilometers of driving (just a few minutes later), the Ridgeline started showing piles of errors.
  • Road Departure Mitigation System Problem
  • Adaptive Cruise Control Problem
  • Hill Start Assist Problem
  • Trailer Stability Assist Problem
  • Collision Mitigation System Problem
  • Power Steering System (EPS) Problem
  • Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) Problem
I called the tire shop right away. First they claimed that the warnings were already present when I dropped off the vehicle. (They were definitely not. I've never had an warning other than oil change reminders or low tire pressure. Fortunately, their own "inspection" report that they email automatically confirms that the warnings were not present.) They got back to me after the shop closed saying they will "scan the vehicle" if I take it back tomorrow.

How should I handle this?

Could these warnings be caused by the change in tire/wheel size?

Is it safe to continue driving the vehicle for now?

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View attachment 419466

View attachment 419467

View attachment 419468

View attachment 419469

View attachment 419470
Try disconnecting the battery (be careful when doing so) and leave it off for about 5 minutes then reconnect it and try that, it should reset everything (including presets in your radio, etc)
 

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I wonder if, the brake switch caused the brake lights to stay on, this drained the battery, which set the codes. Monkeying around with my '21, I had this issue. I bought a Foxwell code reader (ugh! Amazon) and reset them. It has to be for hondas though. I would definitely go to a different shop though.
 

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I would seriously doubt that that brake light switch provides any feedback to the computers involved in the braking system. Basically all it is in charge of is turning on and off the brake lights. I would be really surprised if the switch is the culprit when it comes to wonky braking behavior.
The brake switch absolutely interfaces the car's computer system. Now is that what caused this problem, I don't know.

In my subaru, a recall was done for the brake switch. Failure of this part affected a wide variety of automotive subsystems.
 

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The brake switch absolutely interfaces the car's computer system. Now is that what caused this problem, I don't know.

In my subaru, a recall was done for the brake switch. Failure of this part affected a wide variety of automotive subsystems.
You could well be right but the Subaru analogy doesn't really prove your point.
I personally think that it is highly unlikely that the replaced brake switch caused his braking system problems. I think the two most plausible explanations are related to a drained battery (from the original brake light switch keeping the lights on) and damage to a sensor / wiring in the vicinity of the wheels that occurred while at the tire shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Only use a OEM switch, insure it's adjusted correctly. Try to clear all the codes. See if any return.

Some vehicles have two switches. If so make sure the other one is not damaged.
The shop is installing an OEM switch. Does anyone know if a 2017 Ridgeline has two brake switches?

This tells me your a more patient person that I. Screw me once, that on you, SCREW ME TWICE, well that's on me!

At this point I'd just have it towed to the dealer and let them straighten it out, if it's a large bill, small claims to the local shop and go from there. But it's your vehicle so you choose!
There is that. I'm not naturally a patient person, but I've been trying very hard to be patient about this situation. If I knew more about cars and mechanics I'd be in a better position to be less patient...

It locks in to a bracket near the brake pedal bracket, if I'm not mistaken.

I've seen other posts where it had become partially detached by the driver's foot when stretching or repositioning. This caused the switch to operate intermittently. If it fully detaches, it wouldn't operate at all.

Best to take a peek under there and see where it's mounted, so you will be conscious of how to avoid contacting it in the future.
Good idea. I'll have a look under there once I have the truck back. But I can't recall any instance of something making contact with the switch. (No stretching, repositioning, etc.)

Hmmm, it seems like those guys might have stretched a wheel sensor wire or broken the actual sensor. It would explain the codes.
Wouldn't they have to be very sloppy to break something when changing tires?

Tell them you want a refund for all labor and go pay to have it fixed a dealership, leave them a 1 star review because they screwed you man!!
That's tempting. I'm giving them until tomorrow to resolve this before deciding on my next steps.

@FrostyOfTheNorth The unexpected braking could be a symptom of the malfunctioning emergency breaking system. One thing to look at if you haven't yet would be the fuses for affected systems. A blown or loose fuse could easily cause the issues that you've described (well, except for the broken brake light switch, that was probably caused by a clumsy, big-footed technician).

As others have mentioned, I really think you should take your truck to another reputable mechanic for a second opinion. This shop seems more interested in playing the blame game rather than actually diagnosing and fixing the problem.
Shouldn't the shop running diagnostics quickly help pinpoint if the issue is simply a blown fuse?

Try disconnecting the battery (be careful when doing so) and leave it off for about 5 minutes then reconnect it and try that, it should reset everything (including presets in your radio, etc)
They've already replaced the battery and reset the codes.

I wonder if, the brake switch caused the brake lights to stay on, this drained the battery, which set the codes. Monkeying around with my '21, I had this issue. I bought a Foxwell code reader (ugh! Amazon) and reset them. It has to be for hondas though. I would definitely go to a different shop though.
The brake switch issue seemed to happen later in the day after the codes came on. (Or at least that's when I noticed it.) Otherwise what you're wondering could make sense.

No resolution yet?
Nope. When I spoke to them last on Friday they expected the OEM brake switch to arrive by noon on Saturday and the owner expected that to solve all the issues. I didn't hear from them yesterday, and they are closed on Sundays. So I suspect that either the OEM switch didn't arrive, or more likely that didn't solve the problems. I'll be following up with them again first thing in the morning.

The brake switch absolutely interfaces the car's computer system. Now is that what caused this problem, I don't know.

In my subaru, a recall was done for the brake switch. Failure of this part affected a wide variety of automotive subsystems.
Interesting. But would that also apply to a Honda Ridgeline?

You could well be right but the Subaru analogy doesn't really prove your point.
I personally think that it is highly unlikely that the replaced brake switch caused his braking system problems. I think the two most plausible explanations are related to a drained battery (from the original brake light switch keeping the lights on) and damage to a sensor / wiring in the vicinity of the wheels that occurred while at the tire shop.
The battery was the factory original and although it was still working, I was planning to replace it anyway in time for a harsh Canadian winter. So they installed a new battery on Friday. But with the error codes coming back after they were cleared, something else is clearly happening.

I'm waiting (impatiently) for an update from them tomorrow.
 

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Be aware that new batteries often need charging, also. Some new batteries sit on the shelf for a year. The new battery may have been at a low enough voltage to trigger the same event.

Whenever I get a new battery, the first thing I do is hook up a charger and top it off.
 
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