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Discussion Starter #1
I did an extensive search but didn't find any posts about my question ?
I currently running Penzoil Platinum / Walmart filter combo. My change interval is about 4-4500 mi.
I've been hearing a lot of positive comments about Motorcraft Syn. blend (5w20).
Would there be any issues changing "back" to the sny. blend ? The Motorcraft oil is much less expensive.

Thx. for the comments.
VTX
 

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couple of things. follow the maintenance minder system, that will jump your oil interval to ~7k miles. Then when you change to synthetic, I believe that also increases the mileage interval as it doesn't break down as quickly.
 

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couple of things. follow the maintenance minder system, that will jump your oil interval to ~7k miles. Then when you change to synthetic, I believe that also increases the mileage interval as it doesn't break down as quickly.
Keith,

Are you saying that the MM knows that you are using synthetic oil and will lengthen the change interval?
 

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Keith,

Are you saying that the MM knows that you are using synthetic oil and will lengthen the change interval?
The Maintenance Minder is calibrated for dino oil only. Running synthetic oil and using the MM will still result in oil change interval between 6K and 7K depending on driving style.
 

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Keith,

Are you saying that the MM knows that you are using synthetic oil and will lengthen the change interval?
The MM factors various driving characteristics such as RPM, driving interval distances and calculates the optimal time to perform certain maintenance activities.

It does not monitor engine oil characteristics, nor does it "know" what type oil is used.
 

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MikeT and Binky,

That's what I thought. But Keith's post seemed to indicate otherwise.

At 1000 miles, my MM was showing 80% remaining... so it looks like my preference and the MM will coincide at 5000 miles for the first change.
 

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couple of things. follow the maintenance minder system, that will jump your oil interval to ~7k miles. Then when you change to synthetic, I believe that also increases the mileage interval as it doesn't break down as quickly.
That's what I thought. But Keith's post seemed to indicate otherwise.
Sorry I wasn't clear on my meaning. By using the MM, 3-4k mile old-school oil changes are a thing of the past. I followed the MM and my oil changes were at ~7k miles. Also, don't listen to service advisors saying that the MM is not a good thing and you need 3k or 4k mi oil changes.. they are looking to scare you and increase their bottom line.

With Synthetic, the MM will not recalibrate to account for the extra life of the synthetic. To adjust for this, when you get to (say for example) 3k miles, reset the MM and then when it gets to talking to you again, then you know you'll be about right for the synthetic change.
 

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At 1000 miles, my MM was showing 80% remaining... so it looks like my preference and the MM will coincide at 5000 miles for the first change.
It won't and that is too soon anyway. The breakin oil especially needs to stay in till the MM says change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Perhaps I wasn't clear either....
Better stated forget the MM or even Honda for a second, just think of most "modern engines".
When you use a "pure" synthetic , can you switch back to a syn. blend or even dino ?
I wanted to try Motorcraft 5w20 syn. blend. I've been using Penzoil Platinum.

Thx, VTX
 

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As long as they're both API certified (they are), I don't see a problem, but my name is not Bob. I used the Motorcraft $11.50 semi-syn in my wife's Pilot with no issues.
 

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I use the Penz Platnium in my RL because I change according to the maintenance minder, which comes to the 15% notice about every 6500 miles or so. However, it takes about 9 months for me to get these miles. I use the Motorcraft Blend, also in 5w20 in my fiances' Sonata. The reason I do not use the Penz in her car is that it does not have an oil life monitor so I just change it out every 3,000 (which also takes her about 9 months to put on). Both the Penz and Motorcraft have achieved good, solid reputations at the oil garu forums such as Bobistheoilguy.

Everyone is correct that the oil life monitor is calibrated for dino oil and can not determine what kind of oil you use. It is very accurate as the TBN (the number that an oil analysis gives concerning the life left in the oil's properties) was in line with my oil life monitor percentage. By matching the results of the oil analysis, which was conducted by Blackstone Labs, with the percent of oil life remaining on the Ridgeline's monitor, I concluded that the monitor is a much better way of determining drain intervals than some arbitrary X number of miles or X number of months. Having said all that, you can never go wrong (although you might go broke) changing oil every 3,000 miles, it is just not necessary with modern oils, dino or synthetic.
 

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Petroleum oils and Synthetic Oils are fully compatible. You can change back and forth without any problems. Synthetics have extended drain interval capabilities. If you ad petroleum to synthetic then you must observe the recommended drain interval for the petroleum.
 

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Are you saying that the MM knows that you are using synthetic oil and will lengthen the change interval?
On an automotive engine with conventional filtering there's no difference in the change interval for conventional or synthetic oils.

The main reason we change our oil is because it's dirty. A good motor oil will hold the contaminants too small to filter in suspension. That's a good thing. A motor oil that stays looking like new for a long time is probably an inferior product (I'd much rather use one that turns black fast). We change our oil to get these contaminants out of the engine. Once the oil is saturated it cannot hold additional contaminants in suspension and the precipitate out as sludge. It doesn't matter if it's the cheapest dino oil or the best synthetic they both need to be changed. There is no miracle motor oil that can change physics.

Another reason we change the oil is that the additive package is exhausted. Motor oil is made up of base stock and additives. The more additives the less base stock. It's a fine line to walk. The oil doesn't wear out, the additives do (in general).

As for synthetic blends... I'm not a big fan. I would not expect these blends to outperform any high quality non-synthetic product. We don't know what the mixture of synthetic to non-synthetic base stock is. I know of no regulations that require any minimum blend so a product may have 1% synthetic base stock and call itself a synthetic blend.

I'm a big believer in synthetic oils. I like the added protection in the event of extreme operating conditions. It's unfortunate that many products that are permitted to call themselves synthetic are not really synthetic. This is due to a really stupid ruling several years ago. But in general a oil sold as synthetic will outperform a non-synthetic product.

Use a good quality API Certified motor oil and a good filter. I believe the filter you use is just as important as the oil you choose. Change it per the Maintenance Minder. There's no better plan.
 

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You guys... The MM does NOT test your oil, and is NOT hooked to your dipstick!!! It works with your odometer, PERIOD... If you filled your oil pan with water, would the MM say 0% oil?
 

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12-year-old thread.
 
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