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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't for the life of me get my oil drain plug loose.

Tried using a breaker bar, won't budge, and I cant get the front end high enough to really use the breaker bar, got maybe 2 inches before I got the ground.
 

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If you have a well built and fitting socket or wrench you could always use the hammer or rubber mallet technique. Just start slow to make sure you aren't going to strip or break anything.

You could also use a topsider or something similar to pull the oil out. I've been using one recently on my wife's vehicle and I thought it worked very well. Her vehicle uses almost exactly 5 quarts, and adding in the oil I could retrieve from the filter that's almost exactly what I got out.
 

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2019 Sport Lunar Silver AWD
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Drain plug is supposed to be torqued to 30 ft-lbs and always use a new crush washer. I would take it back to the shop that over torqued the drain plug. You may find damaged threads in the oil pan once the plug is removed.
 
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2021 Radiant Red RTL
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Same thing happened to my brother on his Jeep Grand Cherokee after the shop over tightened the bolt. The threaded part of the nut inside the oil pan cracked loose and would just spin. He ended up installing a new oil pan. Hopefully, your nut breaks loose without issue.
 

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Probably not the time for the 'This is why I always change my own oil' discussion...and usually with my MityVac (thus no crush washers are harmed...)
 

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2017 Honda Ridgeline RTL AWD
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I installed a Valvomax valve. I did it mainly because I didn't like the fact that the oil pan was made of aluminum. No more worries about stripping the aluminum threads.
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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Restrictions with traditional breaker bars is that you get only 4 ways to orient the bar and typically none of them work best in tight spaces as wrenches/ratchets have multiple positions of locking, but lack the torque handling. Using a 1/2" drive ratchet could help, esp hitting it with a rubber mallet.

After you go through this exercise, invest in a valve (fumoto, Valvomax, etc etc) to replace the OEM bolt and never have to worry about people over torquing the bolt.
FYI, Even the oil filter is torqued excessively off the assembly line. My G1 was like that and so was my G5 Odyssey from two years ago. So doing oil changes at home has fixed all the issues.
 

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+1 on Fumoto Valve!!

( Hate to be a Richard but are you SURE you are on the Oil Drain Plug?)

I had the welds break inside the oil pan on my 2000 4Runner on the 3rd oil change, I sucked the oil out through the dipstick tube for 11 years!

Fumotos on EVERYTHING now!
Cheers,
Tru...ar
 
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Something tells me the crush washer is missing... don't ask
I just changed my own oil in my 2019 BE. After finishing the task, when I went to dispose of the oil filter, I saw the crush ring in the pan. Oops. Been watching for leaks, so far no leaks. I did not use a torque wrench, so hopefully Honda can get the plug out. I think I will leave it to them to change from now on. Filter is a pain. "just turn wheels to the right for easy access" Right! I am glad I didn't crush the filter trying to get it out. Got new one hand tight. That is all the tighter I used to get filters?
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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I find OCI intervals to coincide with tire rotations, so I always have the Ridgeline up on 4 jackstands when I do an oil change. Makes it easier to do the tire rotations and guide pin checks too. And the oil filter is easy to get to as well with the tire out of the way.

I am envious of the filter location as found on the Subaru WRX. Up top on the engine within easy reach.
 
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