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I just did an oil change on my Ridge at 25K miles. I plan to start running syn at 30K. For some reason today I purged all my previous oil change experience and started to unscrew the filter befor draining the pan. Brain fart, but it got me to wondering.

There was a bit of oil coming out when I started to unscrew the filter. When I go to syn I plan to let the oil run for 10K but continue to change the filter at 5K. Has anyone tried that? I assume you can change the filter withour draining the oil first and not lose any significant amount of oil but would like some confirmation.

I assume this may havbe been discussed in a previous post but when I tried a search it came up with a butt load of unrelated posts. Anyway, I tried.
 

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You're doing the opposite of what the book calls for. According to the manual, you change filter every other oil change. Your plan is to change the filter twice during the same oil fill. I have never tried what you propose as I change oil when the oil life monitor tells me to (around every 6500 miles). I have changed the filter each of the two times I've changed oil; however, I might change the filter every other time from now on, as the manual suggests.

There will be no problem changing oil and filter sooner than the OLM says but it will be wasteful, both in resource and money. In your case, you are using more filters but saving on oil so I guess it is a wash. It should be pointed out that the OLM will never go to 10,000 miles without an oil change notice flashing, no matter how you drive, as it is calibrated for regular oil, not synthetic. Using synthetic will probably allow for this extended drain interval but I would never go 10,000 miles on plain dino oil.

If you plan on going this route you should do a UOA (used oil analysis) by a respected lab such as Blackstone Labs. This will tell you for sure if the oil you use and the oil change interval you choose is working for your particular motor.

Having said all this, it still seems to me that the easiest (and safest) way to lubricate your motor is to just follow the maintenance minder.
 

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Yes you can change your oil filter without draining the oil pan. Just be sure to wait 10 minutes or so after shutting off the motor to allow oil in the motor to drain down as much as it is going to. Then your'e gold.:D
 

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I just did an oil change on my Ridge at 25K miles. I plan to start running syn at 30K. For some reason today I purged all my previous oil change experience and started to unscrew the filter befor draining the pan. Brain fart, but it got me to wondering.

There was a bit of oil coming out when I started to unscrew the filter. When I go to syn I plan to let the oil run for 10K but continue to change the filter at 5K. Has anyone tried that? I assume you can change the filter withour draining the oil first and not lose any significant amount of oil but would like some confirmation.

I assume this may havbe been discussed in a previous post but when I tried a search it came up with a butt load of unrelated posts. Anyway, I tried.
Absolutely nothing wrong with taking the filter off first, especially if you follow the advice of the responder abover reminding you to let the engine sit for a few minutes to drain oil down to the pan. I personally always take the filter off first because it is the least sloppy way for me to do a change on my RL. I change my oil by leaving the RL on the ground and do the work by crawling in from in front of the right tire. I put a large oil waste bin under the filter area and then unscrew and let the first oil come out and then take the filter all the way off. If the filter drops in the pan by accident and this happens because it is difficult to work in this tight place, then the filter falls into the waste bin and does not make such a splash as it would if the bin was full of the pan's oil first. I then install the new filter and clean up any drips on the frame and then move on to the pan oil removal step and then to the refill.
 

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theLine said:
I just did an oil change on my Ridge at 25K miles. I plan to start running syn at 30K. For some reason today I purged all my previous oil change experience and started to unscrew the filter befor draining the pan. Brain fart, but it got me to wondering.

There was a bit of oil coming out when I started to unscrew the filter. When I go to syn I plan to let the oil run for 10K but continue to change the filter at 5K. Has anyone tried that? I assume you can change the filter withour draining the oil first and not lose any significant amount of oil but would like some confirmation.

I assume this may havbe been discussed in a previous post but when I tried a search it came up with a butt load of unrelated posts. Anyway, I tried.



WHY WHY WHY ????

First I don't understand why you would want to go 10k with out an oil change
Second why change the filter, it will out last the oil
During combustion there is a lot of acidic build up in the oil, not to mention sulfer, carbon, so on and so forth. Needless to say there is some nasty stuff floating around in there. Changing your oil 3000 miles is your best defense, and rather cheap insurance. just my 2 cents
 

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I knew a man who changed filters every 2k and rarely changed oil.He did it for years.He said the engine loved it and had zero problems.
 

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First I don't understand why you would want to go 10k with out an oil change
Second why change the filter, it will out last the oil
During combustion there is a lot of acidic build up in the oil, not to mention sulfer, carbon, so on and so forth. Needless to say there is some nasty stuff floating around in there. Changing your oil 3000 miles is your best defense, and rather cheap insurance. just my 2 cents
While the guy who didn't change his oil frequently enough was tempting fate, your statement above about doing it every 3,000 miles is tempting a different kind of fate - the ROC Oil Life Duration Police coming to visit you in this thread. Well, I am not a member of that police, and I believe there is some truth to the "cheap insurance" mentality. I myself have gone to a full synthetic in my RL to trick myself into believing that the Maintenance Minder is not lying when it only reads 50% at the 3,000 mile mark after an oil change and minder reset. I am now thorughly tricked and enjoying not having to do the oil change at 3,000 and going easily to 6000 +. My time is worth more to me then the $ spent on the oil changes, always was.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
rossi46 said:
WHY WHY WHY ????

First I don't understand why you would want to go 10k with out an oil change
Second why change the filter, it will out last the oil
During combustion there is a lot of acidic build up in the oil, not to mention sulfer, carbon, so on and so forth. Needless to say there is some nasty stuff floating around in there. Changing your oil 3000 miles is your best defense, and rather cheap insurance. just my 2 cents
BECAUSE! BACAUSE! BECAUSE!

First. There is nothing magic about a number! Depending on your driving style and conditions and the lubricant used you may change at 2K or 10K or 20K. The only way to truly know is to have the oil analyzed. I picked 10K because, with syn it seems to be a nice safe number. I''ll have it analyzed and let you know what the results are.
Secondly. I believe the oil will outlast the filter. The oil remains clean until the filter becomes too loaded with particulates to keep the oil clean. As far as filtering is concerned, the filter fails and then the oil does.
Lastly. I refer to my first comment. You say there is "nasty stuff floating around in there". But, it is only a factor when it overcomes the lubricating properties of whatever you use. Hence, the need for analysis. It's no doubt safer to change at 3K. It would be even safer to change every 1K. Or, after every drive to the convenience store. It's a question of economics vs peace of mind. I would chose to trust experts to tell me the real world situation with my chosen lubricant and then make my decision as to whether I include margin of error or a fudge factor when I drain and fill.
 
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Not being old school on the oil changes. I'd go 6-7K on dino Wal-Mart and might push 10k on synthetic. That 3k oil changes are in the past IMO. Oils are allot better than in the '60's and '70's. One thing to note is, the Ridgeline holds about 4.5qts with filter. My 4cyl Mazda 6 holds about 5.3qts and my RX350 holds about 6qts. So more oil and and it seems to help the vehicles go longer. The RX350 is 10k with synthetic. I'm gonna run the Mazda close to 10 also. I'll keep and eye on the level. The Honda, since I just bought it used, next time will be synthetic and I'll let it go to maybe 7500. With that said, I might not let it go over a year because I don't drive it that much. It's Monday Night Football....."You make the call" :grin:
 

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There are only a few reasons to do that.

1. if you are using filters rated to 5K and the MM is telling you aren't yet halfway through the OCI - then one may deem it prudent swap the filter. This makes little to no sense to buy and install these cheapies - but i see it done a lot.

2. If you are de sluding an engine and getting gunk after you cut one open you may want to swap out early - once sludge starts moving you can plug a filter up pretty quick.



In a clean running engine, there is absolutely no need to be bothering to change a filter early - you can buy a filter rated to 20K for and leave it in for 2 or 3 OCI's and it still won't be used up upon removal.

UD
 

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BECAUSE! BACAUSE! BECAUSE!

Secondly. I believe the oil will outlast the filter. The oil remains clean until the filter becomes too loaded with particulates to keep the oil clean.
You are on a pretty good track here until you got here- it goes both ways.

In a sludger vehicle you are correct - as the sludge moves to the filter, it ultimately plugs it and then bypasses it right by.


It happens more often the opposite way and you see it in a multi patch iso chart in a nice expensive UOA.
The contaminant size below the threshold of the filter are the source of lubricant condemnation point- not the holding capacity of the filter.
A particle count will reveal huge PPM below say 10 microns increasing exponentially down to 1 or 2 microns - the filter never even see these but continues catching the big rocks.
it is counterintuitive but its the smallest particle that do the most damage.

top line filters are good for 20K or more - very few oil sumps are good out to that point.

You are 100% correct about a filter failure the most important thing any filter can do is simply not fail.

UD
 

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At first I was asking myself "why would you do this?" Then I went on Amazon and priced OEM oil filters, and they're $8-$9 bucks, cheaper if purchased in bulk. That being said, "To each their own." FWIW I use the MM for the past 112k.
 

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Congrats on raising a nearly 12 year old thread from the dead!
 
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Congrats on raising a nearly 12 year old thread from the dead!
My sentiments exactly. Nonetheless, synthetic oil can easily go 10,000 highway miles without sacrificing protection characteristics. Good quality filters can do the same, but why risk it? If I were driving 1000 miles a week on the highway, I would consider stretching the OCI for cost and convenience purposes, but I wouldn't consider changing the filter halfway through it. As it is, I drive about 5000 miles per year with many short trips in stop and go traffic. My oil and filter gets changed once every 10-12 months and my MM has been averaging about 4500 miles per oil cycle. I've followed the MM to a "T" with my oil changes and have been even more proactive with other fluid and filter changes. 07 is still going very strong at 170k miles with no signs of letting up. Don't overthink it. Let the MM do its job.
 
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Not being old school on the oil changes. I'd go 6-7K on dino Wal-Mart and might push 10k on synthetic. That 3k oil changes are in the past IMO. Oils are allot better than in the '60's and '70's. One thing to note is, the Ridgeline holds about 4.5qts with filter. My 4cyl Mazda 6 holds about 5.3qts and my RX350 holds about 6qts. So more oil and and it seems to help the vehicles go longer. The RX350 is 10k with synthetic. I'm gonna run the Mazda close to 10 also. I'll keep and eye on the level. The Honda, since I just bought it used, next time will be synthetic and I'll let it go to maybe 7500. With that said, I might not let it go over a year because I don't drive it that much. It's Monday Night Football....."You make the call" :grin:
How did you possibly find this thread, it’s been nearly 12 years since someone was posting here!
You are on a pretty good track here until you got here- it goes both ways.

In a sludger vehicle you are correct - as the sludge moves to the filter, it ultimately plugs it and then bypasses it right by.

It happens more often the opposite way and you see it in a multi patch iso chart in a nice expensive UOA.
The contaminant size below the threshold of the filter are the source of lubricant condemnation point- not the holding capacity of the filter.
A particle count will reveal huge PPM below say 10 microns increasing exponentially down to 1 or 2 microns - the filter never even see these but continues catching the big rocks.
it is counterintuitive but its the smallest particle that do the most damage.

top line filters are good for 20K or more - very few oil sumps are good out to that point.

You are 100% correct about a filter failure the most important thing any filter can do is simply not fail.

UD
Nice Job “Uncle Dave” @theLine hasn’t been on the forum since 6/7/12!

But it’s still a good post ;)

:grin: Now when you gonna let me start sending you used oil filters for examination? >:). Maybe we could meet and I could hand them to you?

And yes I could buy the tools but then I would need to know what the heck I am looking at?
 
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Ok, I admit, I'm old school. Well driving for over 60 years makes me old school. In that time I have owned 3 other vehicles that accumulated over 300,000 miles, driving them since new. Every one of those vehicles went that kind of miles without an engine problem. Not one! Long ago, a client of mine got me to try his formula and it has stuck with me all these years. (I know this Ridgeline will easily be the 4th to go over 300,000 with no engine problems).
 

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HAHA I saw EA6BMECHs thread and the headline and I just answered the question! didn't see how old it was.

Happy to cut open a filter if you wish to send it and I'll show you what to look at and for.
Been doing it since the late 60's with grandpa. You can learn a lot by looking at them.

On high miles - just about any car engine can attain high miles. It doenst mean a whole lot.

What matters is how tight and fresh that engine is at those miles.

I've seen half million-mile engines that should have been rebuilt at 100K that are gross polluters the owners always claim the same thing - Runs great!

The only way to tell how well she's wearing is with a leak down test - then you'll know what you really have.


In terms of Hondas decision to use a low-efficiency filter one can draw a conclusion about how long it will stay tight.
Here what the SAE J1858 study concludes the micron vs lifespan to be.

The honda OEM filter would be close to the lowest one.


UD
 

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HAHA I saw EA6BMECHs thread and the headline and I just answered the question! didn't see how old it was.

Happy to cut open a filter if you wish to send it and I'll show you what to look at and for.
Been doing it since the late 60's with grandpa. You can learn a lot by looking at them.

On high miles - just about any car engine can attain high miles. It doenst mean a whole lot.

What matters is how tight and fresh that engine is at those miles.

I've seen half million-mile engines that should have been rebuilt at 100K that are gross polluters the owners always claim the same thing - Runs great!

The only way to tell how well she's wearing is with a leak down test - then you'll know what you really have.


In terms of Hondas decision to use a low-efficiency filter one can draw a conclusion about how long it will stay tight.
Here what the SAE J1858 study concludes the micron vs lifespan to be.

The honda OEM filter would be close to the lowest one.


UD

Agreed on high mileage. Just not the case with mine though. Passes emissions test every year, doesn't use oil or have any leaks, get kudos from the dealer when it comes in for service, and I'll run a drag race against any other 08. I'm really into passing those oil burners you see on the road every so often. So if you see me out there, let's test Ridge to Ridge.
 

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One of the reasons I use the Purolator PureOne filter is for its quality construction, superior filtering capability and relative affordable price. I usually pick up a few at a time as an add-on item on Amazon for around $6 each. It holds up as one of the best filters in most head to head comparisons being that it's over 99% efficient at 20 microns when using synthetic oil. Based on the chart above, I should have no problem getting to 250k miles before even batting an eyelash over the thought of an engine overhaul. With my driving habits and yearly mileage, the body and structure will rust away before the internal engine ever needs touched.
 
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