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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to the ROC and new to doing my own RL (or any other vehicle) maintenance. The ROC has been a great reference to get me started so I thought I'd ask for some help. I just changed my plugs (105,000 miles) for the first time. When removing the coil plugs I found one had a moderate amount of oil on the plug and in the cylinder. And when I went to remove the old plug I found it wasn't fully threaded and loose. I cleaned the coil plug and cylinder and replaced the plug and everything seems to be running fine. My question is this...Is this a sign of a greater problem or was the oil likely from the old plug not being seated? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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There have been issues, which cylinder was it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I read through the other threads you posted. It is the #5 cylinder, center front bank. I had not noted any problems prior to changing the plugs, only did so as it was listed with the most recent MM service. So I only found it by luck and hopefully before there is any major issue. There was no odor, smoke, misfires, high idle and no check engine light. I'm averaging about 17mpg. I'll be replacing the coil pack in the coming days.
 

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Please read about the proper torque and NOT to use anti-seize on NGK plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Please read about the proper torque and NOT to use anti-seize on NGK plugs.
Ron thanks. I torqued the plugs to 13ft/lbs as noted in the manual, but I was a day late and dollar short with the anti-seize since the manual said to use it. It's already on there, would it do any good to pull the plugs and wipe the threads as best I can.

Bamf, that looks like my next project...
 

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Ron thanks. I torqued the plugs to 13ft/lbs as noted in the manual, but I was a day late and dollar short with the anti-seize since the manual said to use it. It's already on there, would it do any good to pull the plugs and wipe the threads as best I can.

Bamf, that looks like my next project...
Good question,

If I recall, IanRTL did his plugs last years sometime, then we discovered that NGK doesn't recommend anit-seize, so he checked them again and some were loose.

Did you use NGK's? The problem with anti-seize is over torquing, thus stretching the plug.
 

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Ron thanks. I torqued the plugs to 13ft/lbs as noted in the manual, but I was a day late and dollar short with the anti-seize since the manual said to use it. It's already on there, would it do any good to pull the plugs and wipe the threads as best I can.

Bamf, that looks like my next project...
The Anti seize on NGK plugs is still quite up in the air here from what I have read. Personally I am siding on the not using it, just because I never used it before and every 50,000km I pull my spark plugs to have a look to see how the engine is running especially on the RL where they are famous for loose plugs.

OP, I had a few loose spark plugs but no oil on the coil pack.... Does your RL "use" any oil between changes? If it doesnt, I wouldnt get to worked up about it, just keep an eye on that cylinder. Ive had old Hondas that did this for the entire time I owned them. Usually the valve cover gasket lettin a bit of oil through, doesn't mean the engine is bad, but on a newer vehicle you should get it fixed.
 

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I'm hoping you dodged a bullet there fnian101. That was a timely plug change you did.

And for the record, that is not a RL specific issue.. but a J35 issue (loose spark plugs).

Please keep us updated on your results. And check those plugs for the proper torque in 10k miles or so.
 

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I'm hoping you dodged a bullet there fnian101. That was a timely plug change you did.

And for the record, that is not a RL specific issue.. but a J35 issue (loose spark plugs).

Please keep us updated on your results. And check those plugs for the proper torque in 10k miles or so.
Speed,

The builder of the J35 has not addressed/fixed this issue in the newer engines? Is the only fix to regularly check the plugs?
 

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That's the only fix I know of 1154. I don't know if Honda has addressed the issue or not. But we've seen loose plug reports here at the ROC on 2006-2008 models. I don't recall if 2009 and up have been reported. I know this issue exists over at the Piloteers forum. That's where I first found out about the loose plug issue.

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/14-problems/27614-anyone-ever-hear-spark-plugs-backing-out.html

I don't follow the Odyssey or Accord forums so I don't know if those J35 applications have experienced this issue or not.

And I have to admit that with 95k on the 2006 Pilot and nearly 60k on the RL, I have yet to check my plugs. :act014:
 

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That's the only fix I know of 1154. I don't know if Honda has addressed the issue or not. But we've seen loose plug reports here at the ROC on 2006-2008 models. I don't recall if 2009 and up have been reported. I know this issue exists over at the Piloteers forum. That's where I first found out about the loose plug issue.

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/14-problems/27614-anyone-ever-hear-spark-plugs-backing-out.html

I don't follow the Odyssey or Accord forums so I don't know if those J35 applications have experienced this issue or not.

And I have to admit that with 95k on the 2006 Pilot and nearly 60k on the RL, I have yet to check my plugs. :act014:

Good info as always. Thanks.
 

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Good question,

If I recall, IanRTL did his plugs last years sometime, then we discovered that NGK doesn't recommend anit-seize, so he checked them again and some were loose.

Did you use NGK's? The problem with anti-seize is over torquing, thus stretching the plug.
I changed my plugs in the spring of 2012. The stock ones still looked great even after 110k miles. I replaced them with stock ngk plugs. I used anti seize because that's what I had always done and I just tightened them with a regular socket wrench until they were "snug". A few months later, there was a big discussion about the use of anti seize. I then read that ngk did not recommend using it because there was already an anti seize compound on the threads. I decided to check mine. To my disbelief, all but one of the plugs were very loose and the 4 and 5 cylinder ones were hand tight at best. I removed all of the plugs and wiped off the anti seize as best I could. I then used a torque wrench and re-torqued them to the proper 13 lb ft. I would recommend the OP does this too. I'm actually due to check the torque on mine again.


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I checked the torque on mine a few weeks ago and at 13 lb-ft they didn't budge at at all.

The NGK instructions are not to use anti seize because of a "break away" plating that serves that need.

Had I found a lose plug and removed it for inspection there would have been a question about re-installation. Is the anti seize plating a single or perhaps 2x use item? What happens to it when it breaks away?

The NGK website says that plugs with 14 mm thread diameter should be torqued from 18 to 21.6 lb-ft with an aluminum head.

Since Honda says 13 lb-ft... on a re-installation, Id probably use a very minimum amount of anti-seize and still torque to 13 lb-ft considering what seems to be a large amount of safety margin already present when comparing to NGK's recommended torque figures.

Ive seen recommended estimates that you should reduce torque %10 to 15% when using anti seize, so as long as you don't act like the 800lb gorilla I don't think that we have much risk of breaking anything with a small amount of anti seize @ 13 lb-ft, but I'm definitely keeping an eye on both our Odyssey and Ridgeline. my thoughts at least...

Perhaps this is worth an email directly to NGK?

Interesting that the Denso site says to install until the gasket touches and then a specific amount after that. That seems just as valid to me with new plug, but then if you have to reinstall with a compressed gasket, then you need to go back to the torque wrench.
 

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I used a little anti seize on 3 and none on 3. I'm going to check here and there and see what this bs is all about. :act006:
 

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I used a little anti seize on 3 and none on 3. I'm going to check here and there and see what this bs is all about. :act006:
That's an extremely good idea. Looking forward to seeing your results.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's now been 4 days and about 100m since I found this issue. I installed a new coil today and the cylinder and old coil was completely free of any new oil...phew for now.

After reading about potential issue with the break-away plating on the NGK plugs I decided not to take the plugs out to clean off the anti-seize. I'll check the torque in 1000-1200m and report back.

Thanks for the help.
 
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