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Discussion Starter #1
a couple of months ago, my oil pressure light started coming on at low speeds or idle, after reading the posts on here, I bought an aftermarket oil pressure switch and swapped it out. The problem went away for a month or so, then resurfaced. this time I bought an OEM switch and installed it. Two weeks later, this morning while at a light, it came on again, clearing as soon as I accelerated. At the last install, I tried to install my oil pressure gauge into the opening, but couldn't get it threaded, but may have to try again tomorrow. The truck uses no oil, regular changes with synthetic, not low on oil. any ideas?

I should have mentioned that I have a 2009 RTLwith 62,000 miles on it.
 

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a couple of months ago, my oil pressure light started coming on at low speeds or idle, after reading the posts on here, I bought an aftermarket oil pressure switch and swapped it out. The problem went away for a month or so, then resurfaced. this time I bought an OEM switch and installed it. Two weeks later, this morning while at a light, it came on again, clearing as soon as I accelerated. At the last install, I tried to install my oil pressure gauge into the opening, but couldn't get it threaded, but may have to try again tomorrow. The truck uses no oil, regular changes with synthetic, not low on oil. any ideas?

I should have mentioned that I have a 2009 RTLwith 62,000 miles on it.
I would say it might be a faulty oil pressure switch as indicated by the following thread.

 

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I have to agree with @zroger73, although you could have damaged the replacement OEM if you threaded it incorrectly or damaged the threads.
I would have to see if the FSM if there’s anything you can check wiring wise for troubleshooting tips/codes and while there I would closely inspect any wiring that is near the Oil Pressure switch. There’s also possibly some testing that you can do to the switch. Should also inspect the engine grounds and all possible wiring which is easily inspected.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've ordered an oil pressure checker, this morning I pulled the pressure switch again, cleaned it well and tefloned the threads. Put some Seafoam in the crankcase and when the gauge comes in, I'll change the oil and filter and check the pressure. Hoping a screen is fouled, but that's a long shot.I have noticed this, the light only comes on when I brake stiffly to stop and then when the rpm's drop below 1,000 rpm. If I slow to a stop it doesn't come on, never comes on when rpm's are above 1,000. Guess I am having trouble accepting that a babied vehicle that I have been so careful with could have a bad oil pump at such low miles.if the gauge shows low pressure, I will bring it to the shop. Never had a bad oil pump or know someone who has, but don't want to ruin an engine.
 

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anyone have an idea what replacement cost would be?
Trusty Google says the replacement cost, with labor and part (before taxes and other BS fees) is $1100 to $1350. This is because they do have to rip apart the entire side of the engine to get to the pump.

I do not know what viscosity of oil you run, but running them at high temps or having additives, or your combustion just having a lot of hydrocarbons migrating to the oil, can cause weird effects on the oiling system. Also, it can just purely be something is blocking the port where your oil pressure switch is going into. I would invest in a Oil filter sandwich to run an oil pressure sensor and gauge to.
 

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Just got a call from the shop. Metal shavings in the oil, he feels the engine is bad. Going to pick it up in a while, don't understand how this could happen. Bought the truck with 23,000 miles on it, put another 40,000 miles on it, always took care of the vehicle.
 

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I am sorry to hear that. Since you bought the vehicle used, the 23K miles of service history is not your 'first hand'. Regardless of what the seller may have said or implied, there is always that sense of ambiguity behind the sale.
Metal shavings could be a multitude of things, but it is a mute point. Regardless of where it came from, the possibility is that it could have gone anywhere.
Now you have to make a call on an engine repair, engine replacement, or a replacement vehicle.
 

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Just got a call from the shop. Metal shavings in the oil, he feels the engine is bad. Going to pick it up in a while, don't understand how this could happen. Bought the truck with 23,000 miles on it, put another 40,000 miles on it, always took care of the vehicle.
I wonder if an oil analysis would be beneficial at this point?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, I may do that. They said they only drained out a cup of oil, so I brought the truck home, changed the oil and filter, strained the oil through a t shirt, stuck a pencil magnet into the oil pan. No sign of any shavings!!! hard to believe they lied to me and to what gain? going to run it a couple of days and get another shop to look at it. Will check into an oil analysis, thanks. the oil pressure light has only been coming on at idle when the engine is warm so I'll be sure to bring the rpms up a bit if that happens.
 

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I’m sorry to hear the news.

Opinion: If the engine still runs well and is not using or losing large quantities of oil, it may not be “bad.”

Here’s another thing you can try: Run a 10w30 or a 0- or 5w40 for a bit and see whether that prevents the low oil pressure light coming on. If it does, then you may indeed have quite a bit of wear, but can still get good useful life out of it by simply running a slightly thicker grade like that.
 

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When you take of your oil fill cap, is there a thick black goo on it or down inside the cylinder head? What is your typical oil change interval, what oil do you run and do you add anything to your oil? Your oil pickup could be partially blocked and would cost nothing more than a lower oil pan reseal to verify. I'll get back with AllData time on that once I get to work. Do NOT flush it if it's sludged. But I would verify the pickup isn't blocked first if at all possible.
 

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Oil pan labor time is only 1.8 hours per AllData. Plus gasket and oil, completely worth it to check oil pump pickup for blockage. If your engine is sludged, I'd recommend 1000 mile oil change intervals with a good cleaning high mileage oil to slowly and safely remove deposits, after you've inspected the pickup
 

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Yes, I may do that. They said they only drained out a cup of oil, so I brought the truck home, changed the oil and filter, strained the oil through a t shirt, stuck a pencil magnet into the oil pan. No sign of any shavings!!! hard to believe they lied to me and to what gain? going to run it a couple of days and get another shop to look at it. Will check into an oil analysis, thanks. the oil pressure light has only been coming on at idle when the engine is warm so I'll be sure to bring the rpms up a bit if that happens.
You can also cut open the oil filter to see if you find anything glistening. You are probably not going to find any big chunks
Below is the image of what our G1 oil pan looks like and you can also see where the drain hole is. Given how the crevices are located, without proper amount of oil in the pan, it is hard to see what particles are in there. Small particles will exit with no issue, but the big ones cannot.
397004


You can assess what is in the pan by dropping the pan to get a closer look. If you want to 'flush' whatever is in there, then using a higher viscosity oil/heavier weight oil, would be fine.

Below are examples of a worst case scenario.

397005
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If you determine that an internal engine cleaning is in order, I strongly recommend Auto-RX rather than any other strategy. It works safely, effectively, and slowly. I’ve used it many times over the years, and have experienced everything from cleanup or varnish to in-sticking of rings and attendant restoration of compression and proper cylinder firing & function.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just got my truck back from another shop, repaired. Two issues, 1. That vehicle has 2 oil pressure sensors, not shown in my repair manual, I was replacing the wrong one. 2. I had received 2 pressure switches from different suppliers, both were supposed to work with the Ridgeline. When I researched further, I was getting a switch #37250 which according to the Honda site is actually a 'valve timing oil pressure switch". I notified both vendors. The correct number, according to the Honda dealer is a #37240. Thanks for all the help, so relieved. For the record, I have changed the oil at 75% use with 5-20w synthetic oil. No trace of sludge anywhere. that's why I was so mystified Thanks for all the input, still waiting on the oil analysis. will post if there is any problem.
 

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Just got my truck back from another shop, repaired. Two issues, 1. That vehicle has 2 oil pressure sensors, not shown in my repair manual, I was replacing the wrong one. 2. I had received 2 pressure switches from different suppliers, both were supposed to work with the Ridgeline. When I researched further, I was getting a switch #37250 which according to the Honda site is actually a 'valve timing oil pressure switch". I notified both vendors. The correct number, according to the Honda dealer is a #37240. Thanks for all the help, so relieved. For the record, I have changed the oil at 75% use with 5-20w synthetic oil. No trace of sludge anywhere. that's why I was so mystified Thanks for all the input, still waiting on the oil analysis. will post if there is any problem.
That's interesting. Where are the sensors? I only show an oil pressure switch in the 2009-13 FSM.

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RL 2009-13 lubrication system.png
 

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Let us not be overly pedantic. The switches sense pressure, and open or close accordingly.
 
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