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Let us not be overly pedantic. The switches sense pressure, and open or close accordingly.
I don't believe using the manufacturer's terminology to describe a component is being "overly pedantic" - I believe it's simply being accurate.

There are oil pressure switches and there are oil pressure sensors. Oil pressure switches are binary devices that complete a circuit above a specific pressure and open the circuit below a specific pressure. Oil pressure sensors are analog devices that vary their resistance infinitely based on pressure. Oil pressure switches and sensors are not interchangeable.

At my day job, our products use air pressure switches as safety interlocks to monitor blowers. I cringe when I hear others refer to them as "air flow switches" (they respond to pressure, not flow) or "air cells" (that wildly incorrect description descends from the use of "sail switches" that respond to flow, not pressure).
 

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Discussion Starter #23
that's what I found in my manual, but they charged me for an oil pressure switch and less than an hour's labor and the problem has cleared up. I'm very happy! the work order read that the owner had replaced the wrong switch which was the one in the diagram.
 

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There are oil pressure switches and there are oil pressure sensors. Oil pressure switches are binary...
Well, since you want to be accurate

Oil pressure switches are a type of oil pressure sensor. All pressure switches are pressure sensors, but not all pressure sensors are pressure switches.
 

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Well, since you want to be accurate

Oil pressure switches are a type of oil pressure sensor. All pressure switches are pressure sensors, but not all pressure sensors are pressure switches.
Yes, but the industry uses the terms switch and sensor to describe devices that are either on or off or output an analog value, respectively. Clearly, there is enough confusion between an oil pressure switch and an oil pressure sensor without replacing the former term with binary oil pressure sensor. :)
 

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There's just neither accuracy nor utility gained in this discussion by attempting to 'correct' OP on his completely proper and accurate use of the term "sensor." Whether the sensor is binary or not is irrelevant to his issue and the discussion.
(-:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yes, but the industry uses the terms switch and sensor to describe devices that are either on or off or output an analog value, respectively. Clearly, there is enough confusion between an oil pressure switch and an oil pressure sensor without replacing the former term with binary oil pressure sensor. :)
There's just neither accuracy nor utility gained in this discussion by attempting to 'correct' OP on his completely proper and accurate use of the term "sensor." Whether the sensor is binary or not is irrelevant to his issue and the discussion.
(-:
thanks to all for the input, truck is fine, just got back an oil analysis which reports all readings are within normal range.
 

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Glad to hear it. If, God forbid, you get an oil pressure light in the future, inspect your control wiring. Different brand but we went to techline after a 3rd oil pressure switch failed in the same vehicle in a 60 day period. Didn't believe it but inspection revealed the first internal failure of one actually forced oil through the wiring itself all the way to the main connector causing intermittent shorts.
 

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Yes, when I went back and confronted the shop manager, he said that the material was not "shavings" but looked like silver paint, so the filter would not have picked it up. the oil analysis proves to me he was lying.
So the "metal shavings in oil" report from one of the shops was just utter nonsense?
So the "metal shavings in oil" report from one of the shops was just utter nonsense?
 

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He may have been. OTOH, a routine oil analysis can’t detect anything larger than a very few microns, so anything you can see with your eyes is invisible to a UOA. I’ve had engine fail catastrophically yet a UOA of what was left in the sump was merely not-great.
 

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Just got my truck back from another shop, repaired. Two issues, 1. That vehicle has 2 oil pressure sensors, not shown in my repair manual, I was replacing the wrong one. 2. I had received 2 pressure switches from different suppliers, both were supposed to work with the Ridgeline. When I researched further, I was getting a switch #37250 which according to the Honda site is actually a 'valve timing oil pressure switch". I notified both vendors. The correct number, according to the Honda dealer is a #37240. Thanks for all the help, so relieved. For the record, I have changed the oil at 75% use with 5-20w synthetic oil. No trace of sludge anywhere. that's why I was so mystified Thanks for all the input, still waiting on the oil analysis. will post if there is any problem.
I am having the exact same issue with my 2009 RTL. It started around 115000 miles. Low rpm, oil light and check engine oil flash then go off. I would like to know exactly where the switch that you had replaced is located.
I found another discussion here that might be it. Oil Pressure Switch TBS ?
 

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If you are getting this intermittent check oil warning, replace the sensor. Just did mine after 2 years of letting the annoying light flicker once or twice per day. Part 37240-r72-a01. Been a full week since replacing and no more issues. The switch is close to the oil filter. While looking at the filter from the wheel wheel, right behind the filter is a sensor with a green connector. Directly behind that is another sensor with a black connector. The black connector sensor is the one you replace, like $35 on ebay for the part and replace the O-ring at the same time since not included, part 91319-r70-a01
 

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I am having the exact same issue with my 2009 RTL. It started around 115000 miles. Low rpm, oil light and check engine oil flash then go off. I would like to know exactly where the switch that you had replaced is located.
I found another discussion here that might be it. Oil Pressure Switch TBS ?
Ok here is an update... I replaced the sensor a month ago an no more light flickers. The one to replace is the one behind the one on the filter when looking at them threw the wheel well. Dzorn21 is right on the money.
 

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I've got a 2013 Sport with 170k on it.

Oil light has been lighting briefly. Seemed to be related to curves and inclines. Shop I use suggested that going to 5w oil would solve the problem. It didn't, well at least not completely. Now just less frequently.

Second visit and they told me oil pressure is low. To find the cause they want to drop the oil pan and check for sludge at the intake, at about $350.

Does this seem like a reasonable next step?
 

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Read this thread all the way to the end. . .
 
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