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I've got a box very much like (a) and am very happy with it. If (c) is like (a) on t he top, that would give you a place to mount the amp so you wouldn't have to remove the seat to mount it on the rear wall and you'd just have to run the wiring to the dash...a much simpler installation., plus it's only $132.00 more and includes the amp, woofers and wiring. (b) seems a little pricey for what you would be getting.
 

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You can also consider a Powered Bazooka Sub, that will fit under the rear seat, and even with the seats up, the seats still stick out from the back, quit a bit, so the Subwoofer doesn't stick out any more than the seats do, in the up position.

The Powered subs also have an amp built in, so it wil run off of the OEM deck, or an aftermarket deck. They also make passive subs (no amp).

Great Bass from the tube!:act035:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looking at the Kicker box, its just the best bang for the buck. Unfortunately it doesn't have an amp mount location on it. Where's the best place to mount the amp? One installer said under the seat. Any issues with doing that?
 

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I'm not arguing that the kicker box is great value, but if you have to add an amp, then it will cost much more than a "Powered" Bazooka Tube setup, and it is soooooo much more convenient having the amp built in the Sub. One plug runs all the wires in the Sub.

Just saying......:act035:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Got my box. Sorry guys I didn't go with the Bazooka. I'm trying to determine which amp to get. My box has two Kicker CVTs 2-4 ohm 400w RMS speakers. Unfortunately its amost impossible in Canada to find a decently priced 800w RMS 2 or 4 OHM amplifier. So I'm looking at the following because I can get them locally:

MTX JH600 (300w @ 2 ohms per speaker)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236JH600/MTX-JackHammer-JH600.html?tp=115

or

Alpine M1000 (500w @ 2 ohms per speaker)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRP....html?search=Mono+Amplifier&tp=115&tab=review

I really want to go with the M1000, but read it sucks a lotta power to the point lights start to flicker in cars. I still have the stock battery in the truck. Also, I'm running a Kenwood 7160 headunit.

1. Could the stock battery and the alternator handle the pull off of an amp like this with out any fancy rewiring?
2. Is the m1000 worth it? Is the additional wattage really going to make that much difference?
3. What size amps are you all running in the ridgelines? any issues?

Thanks in advance!
 

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I am running 2 pioneer 10" dual voice coil subs with a 800 watt pioneer mono amp. I am also running a 4 channel amp to my front component and rear 3 way's. That amp is around 700 watts I think. I have had zero problems with lights fading or anything like that. I'm sure there are other people who would say the same thing. I am using a 4 gauge amp kit for wiring. As far as power requirements, I would go with the cheaper amp. Unless you are doing sound comp's or just like to go boom boom boom down the road, the bass will be a little overkill for the RL. I believe my amp is only turned up about half way and it hits really hard. The only reason I would reccomend getting the M1000 is if you are going to expand to more subs later on down the road or if you are going to show the amp off (I think it looks better than the MTX). Also for what its worth, I had a MTX mono amp for 9 years running everything from a single 8" sub to two 12"' subs. That amp was rock solid. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I finally got my ebay box installed with an MTX RFL 600D last weekend. I'm pretty blown away by it and all the tutorials here really helped out!! The amp is only at 1/4 of its power and its pounding, no rattling. I didn't add any sound deadening material. I definitely recommend it. I hated cutting through the grommet in the firewall cause I couldn't get the wire through the cut without ripping it a bit more, thus loosing the air tight seal, Car manufacturers should really leave a separate rubber plug in the firewall for aftermarket stuff. C'mon my 1985 cressida had had one. :p
Any ideas how to seal it back up? Silicone or something? does it matter?
 

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Well I finally got my ebay box installed with an MTX RFL 600D last weekend. I'm pretty blown away by it and all the tutorials here really helped out!! The amp is only at 1/4 of its power and its pounding, no rattling. I didn't add any sound deadening material. I definitely recommend it. I hated cutting through the grommet in the firewall cause I couldn't get the wire through the cut without ripping it a bit more, thus loosing the air tight seal, Car manufacturers should really leave a separate rubber plug in the firewall for aftermarket stuff. C'mon my 1985 cressida had had one. :p
Any ideas how to seal it back up? Silicone or something? does it matter?
if you can make a clean cut around the existing hole, I would get one these
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i694_grommets-and-firewall-bushings.html
and try to snap it tight, then feed the wire through.

Many just leave it the way you have it, you could also clean around it with alcohol then put some good tape, like vinyl bundling tape and it will seal it very good.
 

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Pics please! Take pics of the sounds too............:act030:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey Laserguy thanks for the link! Those grommets are pretty neat, I have my fuse tied pretty close to the firewall so I can just onhook it and try to slip the grommet through. I'll try to see if I can find them locally, if it works I'll post a pic.
 
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