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I understand its the rear bank cant which is between the engine and the firewall.

If I am correct there are 4 O2 sensors

on the front bank one at the top of the cat and bottom

on the rear bank one at the top of the cat and at the bottom near the J pipe?

which one is giving the P0420 code so I can swap that out?

thanks !
 

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Our engines actually have two heated oxygen sensors and two air/fuel ratio sensors. The A/F ratio sensors are the ones upstream of the catalytic converters (right next to the cylinder head) and the heated O2 sensors are the ones downstream of the catalytic converters.

P0420 is for Bank 1 which, yes, is the "rear" cylinder bank of our engines. I wouldn't necessarily start swapping parts like O2 sensors until I really diagnosed the problem, though. P0420 could be caused by a bad O2 sensor, but it could also be caused by a misfiring cylinder, a leaky injector, etc. Basically, anything that could cause the computer to think the Bank 1 catalytic converter is not functioning as it should.

If you have a scan tool that can display live data, I would drive around and watch the Bank 1 O2 sensor data stream as well as the short and long term fuel trims on Bank 1 to see if there is another issue that you need to address before swapping O2 sensors.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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A P0420 code is pretty general and leaves a lot to be checked.
I was helping someone else with O2 sensor problems so I'm going to post some of this info here to give you a general idea of trouble shooting.

Just some things I like to do for me and for informational purposes are:
(I always make sure battery/body hots & grounds are good; clean and never-seized)
1. Check resistance and continuity of the sensor/s in question.
2. Check power going to the sensor.
3. Check for good clean connection at the sensor and PCM
4. Check the relays and fuses for the sensors.

These pics are from the 09'-12' FSM, but should help you and others.
Each sensor should have a set resistance between 2 terminals and no shorts to ground.
Pics to get the thinking fluids rollin', I need more coffee atm....lol.
.
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Here's a video that may help understanding fuel trims (I need to watch it myself).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WnM_NsOtd8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cARQ0jZZ4Qc
I painfully watched his vids, sorta long and drawn out, but he does cover some trouble shooting steps using just a OBD scan tool.
I have never used one, but I think it could be useful. I will have to do some research on them in the near future I think.
The only issue I see is even the stupid Haynes manual tells you to verify the O2 sensor with a multimeter and they even give specific ohms for your particular vehicle.
This just seems like a quick and easy check.
Maybe the scan tool could show a weak or failing state, I dunno.

I was a Electronic Tech so I think a OBD scan tool would be fun and getting live data does intrigue me.
Two minutes with a can of carburetor cleaner and you can pinpoint a vacuum leak.
I still like using the KISS method in most of my applications I guess.
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(Keep It Simple Stupid).....lol.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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For whatever reason, my OBD adapter connections to my Torque app have failed. The only one I can get to work is the one on my old Civic. I'm stumped at the moment trying to get my ELM 327 adapters (all identical on all 3 vehicles AFAIK) to work on the Pilot and RL. This happened after I connected the Civic to Torque.

I may have to reinstall the Torque app and see if that will fix the issue.

But this is the subject of another thread.
 

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Yeah speed I would want a stand alone unit. I see that several phone types are big sellers though.
I will be looking at units in the $100-$150 range probably to get some of the functions/reliability that I want it looks like.
 
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