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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased 2007 Ridgeline with about 60K miles. About 2 years ago, we let it sit for a few days and needed to jump it to get it started. It continued to do this and finally drained the battery so dead you couldn't open the doors. I'm now on my third or fourth battery. I already changed the AC relay. I love the truck, but at this point I'm sick of it dying all the time. Looking for some cables I can attach to battery that I can access with hood closed so I can open door. Also have a 2015 TLX and it does same thing, but you can unlock and open doors when it dies.
 

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I had the same thing - only on a new RL when I installed an aftermarket horn and the wiring was bad. I'm far from a mechanic but I would start with any aftermarket alterations, like the horn, lights, etc.
 

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Disconnect the negative battery cable and using a multi-meter, connect one end to the loose cable, the other end to the battery terminal. A constant draw of 0.03-0.075 amps is acceptable. If the constant draw is higher than 0.03-0.075, using a test light, tape one end of the light to the loose battery cable, tape the other end to the battery. If the key is off and the doors are closed (dome lights off) the test light should not be on (or it might be on but very dim due to components that require constant memory power). A bright test light obviously indicates a high draw.

To locate which system is creating the draw, remove one fuse at a time until the test light turns off (or drops to a very dim glow). The 1st fuse you need to remove is the one that controls the dome lights. From there, go one circuit at a time. Better to do this test with a muti-meter, but it's easier to see the light change from a distance as you're removing fuses than it is to read a meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Excellent. Assume same approach with Acura? You have any hunches on what it is?
Thanks
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Here's a collection of info I have on parasitic draw:





 

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Discussion Starter #7
This should do it for now. I found my multi-meter and was going to ask how to set it. Question answered!
Thanks to everyone for quick feedback.
BR5
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Finally got around to doing the test donuteater306 & speedlever referred to. Test was fairly simple, but takes a while depending on how many fuses you need to pull. The main fuse box under the hood is where I started. the system was pulling .39 amps when I started. When I pulled the 40 amp ACC Backup fuse the amperage dropped to .02. Since that particular fuse runs multiple other things in the truck I needed to keep pulling secondary fuses to find the source fuse. It ended up being from the fuse box under the dash on the drivers side. It was the 7.5 backup fuse. I researched this fuse and can't find anything specifically for the Ridgeline. What do I do next?
Thanks
BR5
 

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Soo... got into the Ridgeline yesterday and it was dead after sitting overnight. I called Honda dealer and told them I'd isolated the circuit hoping this would accelerate process and or they'd say yes we're familiar with that and can get it fixed for you. Instead they said they have two technicians with 100 years experience between them and they'd first need to do a diagnostic on it. I asked about cost and it was pushing $360. Ouch!!! He then asked if I wanted to schedule it, to which I said I'd just keep changing batteries. If you have this issue, you understand the frustration with jumping into a vehicle and hearing the starter solenoid clicking. I own two Honda products, the second one being a 2015 TLX and it does the same thing. I was visiting the Acura dealership and they had battery tenders on the cars in their showroom. I told them about my problem and they said they'd never heard of that so I obviously asked about the numerous extension chords on the floor going to several vehicles. They said it was due to customers opening the doors which caused the light to come on. I then got a notice from them earlier this year that said during COVID I may not have driven my TLX enough to keep the battery charged and that I should bring it in for a systems check. It would have been better if they'd said we'll come tow it in for you. As you can tell I'm very frustrated with this issue. It seems short of trading my Ridgeline in, my only choice at this point is to add pig tails to my battery so I can easily plug a battery tender into it each night. Wow!
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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That 7.5A fuse you're referring to (#7) that lives in the underdash fuse box looks like it protects multiple systems..

Here's a list of circuits protected by that fuse box. Maybe that will help.

406067


406066
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Speedlever. It's interesting that my drivers side door can't be opened from the inside. This did happen after the battery drain issue though. My problem is that it's a 08 and batteries are relatively inexpensive as compared to chasing down wire harness shorts for the areas number 7 goes to. Has anyone else attempted this?
 

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I don't know if anyone has or not. Good luck chasing it down. Electrical gremlins are not fun.
 

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Thanks Speedlever. It's interesting that my drivers side door can't be opened from the inside. This did happen after the battery drain issue though. My problem is that it's a 08 and batteries are relatively inexpensive as compared to chasing down wire harness shorts for the areas number 7 goes to. Has anyone else attempted this?
Those are some critical systems. I don't suppose that the truck functions with the fuse pulled? Would be curious if it really stops the drain. If you can't pull the fuse, can you unplug some of the items that are powered by that circuit like the navigation stuff, XM, etc? Wondering if you could isolate the culprit that way.
 
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