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I am looking for a bit more performance (increased throttle response and improved MPG). Can anyone recommend some simple mods that are worth the investment?

Thanks,
Mitch

2007 RTX - 81K miles
Mods: Pioneer Navi, Alea Leather seats and heaters, window tint, bedmat
 

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A potatoe chip on the throttle pedal will help with fuel mileage. Seriously the only proven thing to improve fuel mileage is your right foot.
 

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Well, i got me some bfg km2 tires, that really slowed my truck down so i needed more power.I ended up getting a k&n 77 air intake system and a throttle body spacer ( taylor helix power tower) which gave it more power, but individually, idk how much power each contributes... with the k&n, obviously letting more air in, it needs to get more air out, so i got rid of my oem muffler and got a flow master (40 i think),and yes more power was added :) u may or may not have a drop in mpg(k&n, helix, and ,flow master claim better mpg) like i said, the km2 tires rly kills gas, i got these all after the tires so idk if it improves mpg. the only thing u can do is, like the last guy said, be light on ur throttle... but damn my truck sound BALLSY, u might like that :) but u decide if mpg or power is more important
 

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Anything that slows your truck down will also hurt mileage. Everything you did to offset it will help a little.

Now you would have to spend a lot more to get more power. The only thing that will really help with mileage is taking weight off. Sounds like a standoff to me.

You have the truck looking and sounding how you like it, but some of the price for that is a truck that's slower and gets worse mileage.
 

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Anything that slows your truck down will also hurt mileage. Everything you did to offset it will help a little.

Now you would have to spend a lot more to get more power. The only thing that will really help with mileage is taking weight off. Sounds like a standoff to me.

You have the truck looking and sounding how you like it, but some of the price for that is a truck that's slower and gets worse mileage.
yea i know /: i found that out the hard way... i didnt think the tires would hurt the mileage, my dads old dakota took bigger tires than that like a boss.... o well, anyway i still got my steel rims with stock tires, ill paint it black and use those to save gas, ill switch back to the aluminum and bfg set wen i feel like a douchbag lol... but thx for the info anyway :)
 

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Everything we add to our truck robs both power and mileage. It's all about priorities. A few decorative items is not really going hurt more than paying a few cents more at fillup, or maybe increase 0 to 60 time by less than a tenth longer.
But things that create friction with the ground or air (tires, wider fenders, racks, steps, etc.) will also cost us something more, not to mention the upfront purchase price. And of course anything that adds significant weight.
 

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If you're looking for throttle responce, I installed a K&N intake and noticed a significant improvement in responce. Milage.....minimal......power.....yes. (many poopoo on the K&N system, I personally like it and notice the improvement).
 

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My only problem with K&N specifically is the initial cost including the cleaning kit. Plus, the maintenance involved. If you add all that up it really does not save you that much (with what little gain it does give you) over swapping a $10 Purolator or Wix dry filter every 15K or so at least over the first 80-100K miles. So it's kind of a wash, cost-wise IMO.
The one that would save if they ever make it for the RL would be the Asmoil EA filter. It uses nanofibers that accomplish the same thing. No cleaner and no oil. Just tap it easy, blow it out lightly with shop air from the inside or vacuum the outside every 25K or so.
FRAM makes a washable filter that uses regular soap and water and takes up to 20 cleanings. Can't find much info on it.

http://fram.com/products/air_filters/product_list?select_region=1
 

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The K&N kit comes with the cleaning kit.....at least mine did....as such, it's cost free for going on 5 years. And the maintenance is negligable....clean it once per year. Thats it. Still on the cleaning kit it came with and it's probably good for another year or so.
 

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The K&N kit comes with the cleaning kit.....at least mine did....as such, it's cost free for going on 5 years. And the maintenance is negligable....clean it once per year. Thats it. Still on the cleaning kit it came with and it's probably good for another year or so.
omg wtf?!?! that aint fair! i didn't get a cleaning kit! which set did u get? metal or plastic? i got ripped off!!! sonofabitch!!! :(
 

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If you're looking for throttle responce, I installed a K&N intake and noticed a significant improvement in responce. Milage.....minimal......power.....yes. (many poopoo on the K&N system, I personally like it and notice the improvement).
If you're a short term owner not interested in engine longevity, and you want a louder intake sound then the K&N is for you. Increased performance is not part of the issue... you give up low end performance for a very small possibility of high RPM performance under very limited circumstances.

Junk.

PS: Don't ever buy a used car with a K&N filter. You know the previous owner was either misinformed or just didn't care (or both).
 

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Most intakes including the K&N only show gains at the upper end of the power range. In fact most of the time you will feel a loss of low end torque. They are not really ideal for driving around town where you really need torque for the stop and go driving in the lower end of the powerband.

So unless you do alot of 5k+ rpm driving, then the stock intake is really a better choice.
 

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If you're a short term owner not interested in engine longevity, and you want a louder intake sound then the K&N is for you.
PS: Don't ever buy a used car with a K&N filter. You know the previous owner was either misinformed or just didn't care (or both).
I've had a K&N Filter (not a CAI) in my CRV for over 7 years, and never had any problems with it. It paid for itself within a couple of years, since I didn't have to keep replacing the paper filters.

I never noticed any performance gains or loss, but certainly have no regrets buying one, and have put one in my RL!
 

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I think it has more to do with how effective the filter really is at filtering. Also, if the use of oil will contaminate the air temp sensor. Overuse of oil most certainly might.
In the end it leaves more questions than actual problems, I think. Not my filter of choice because I think there are (or will be) better choices, but I've known others who use them on all their cars and put on tons of trouble-free miles on their vehicles like many others do that don't use a K&N.
 

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I've seen too many instances where a K&N or other oiled gauze filter contaminates the MAF sensor and causes engine performance problems. Besides, OEM intakes have improved since the 1980's. The factory paper filter flows more air than the engine can ingest.
 

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It is true that any filter flows more air than necessary for it's size. You only have to look at the dark circle visible on an older paper filter to see the concentration of dirt that is funneled down to the size of the throttle body opening.

The only negative of paper is that it fouls up quicker (partly because it's filtering better) and can choke the engine if not replaced regularly. But a rare problem except in the dustiest environments. This is best solved by more frequent changes, moving to a different area, or using a very large (ie; Baja Ridgeline) cone filter with a huge surface area.

As to the MAF sensor getting fouled, I've only heard it being a problem on some BMW models. It has a lot do with where the sensor is located, and how much oil is present.
Everyone's experience is different I guess.

I still think the Amsoil Ea filter is the best of both worlds. It will handle more dirt while allowing a good air flow compared to paper. It does not need to be washed or oiled.
And will last about 4X the life of a paper filter with little maintenance other than blowing out some dust. They make them for just about every Honda except the RL.
 

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My K&N fouled the MAF on my '02 Astro. I finally reinstalled the OEM filter and never had the problem again.

'Got used to oil bath air filtering with farm equipment years ago. 'Thought the K&N would be the "cats meow" but it didn't work well for my Astro.
 

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The first three cars I owned had factory installed oil bath air cleaners. That's one of the reasons those motors were worn out in less than 100K miles. Never again for me.
 

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If you're a short term owner not interested in engine longevity, and you want a louder intake sound then the K&N is for you. Increased performance is not part of the issue... you give up low end performance for a very small possibility of high RPM performance under very limited circumstances.

Junk.

PS: Don't ever buy a used car with a K&N filter. You know the previous owner was either misinformed or just didn't care (or both).
I strongly disagree with your statement. My last truck was a 1994 S-10 that I installed a K&N CAI at less than 20k miles and sold it with 222,000 miles on the odometer that I accumulated in a 14 year timespan. During that time, I NEVER had ANY engine problem whatsoever, including the fact it did not burn ANY oil! NONE, ZERO, ZILCH! And I lived on a DIRT ROAD for the more than the majority of that time and drove on DIRT ROADS for the entirity of the time. Your claim hold no water my friend.
 

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It's true that a gauze type filter will let more dirt pass than a paper type. That being said, the only application where I've ever heard of or even seen issues with the gauze filters is either over oiling (maf issues) or applications where the filter or intake is located very low in a vehicle and in the open and can suck up excessive amounts of dirt (mostly atvs and bikes)

IMHO, after building and racing vehicles in the last 30yrs. If your mod does not require a re-tune, then the gains are so minimal that your money is better spent elsewhere.

Its a fact that your butt dyno and your wallet are directly linked, the new mod affect will produce larger gains the more money you spend. If you buy enough bolt ons, one day you'll stumble on one that actually frees up real power..lol
 
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