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After doing a lot of research I went with the MDX front rotors pads and calipers. Definitely an improvement over the Ridgeline’s... but still far from perfect. I went with oem pads and rotors though, so I may go with a more aggressive pad next time.


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I did the 2010 Pilot brake rotors and calipers, stock pads, (Rotors are same as '08 MDX)... and Hawk LTX pads in rear. Technafit SS-braided lines all around, DOT4 fluid, and crossdrilled+slotted rotors.

Actually made a noticeable difference. Stopping feels completely adequate and never lacking now.
I also have 265 tires, so that helps as well.

I was going to do MDX calipers, but the piston sizes of the Pilot calipers are closer matched to the Ridgeline. Unless I do a big Brembo caliper brake swap... I'm quite happy with it now.
 

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I was going to do MDX calipers, but the piston sizes of the Pilot calipers are closer matched to the Ridgeline. Unless I do a big Brembo caliper brake swap... I'm quite happy with it now.
Unfortunately there are no off the shelf Brembo BBK. However, there is one from Rotora ;).
 

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FYI. Tesla S has Brembos... and also happens to have the same wheel bolt pattern, and hub bore (seems like a few Honda engineers went to Tesla...)

Just leaving this on the table. :eek:)
 

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FYI. Tesla S has Brembos... and also happens to have the same wheel bolt pattern, and hub bore (seems like a few Honda engineers went to Tesla...)

Just leaving this on the table. :eek:)
I wish it was just that easy my friend. Botl pattern and hub size does not say much about the brakes, only the wheel.
FYI,
- The stud size on the Tesla S is 16.6mm while the Ridgeline is 14.4mm. Means, your rotor will be wobbling around.
- The Tesla S uses a 355mm rotor, vs the Ridgeline's 320mm.
- Tesla S rotor is 32mm thick, which the Ridgeline is 28mm.
- The hat height on the Tesla is 70.7mm while the Ridgeline is 47.4mm.

Every physical dimension on just the front rotor is off. On the Tesla's Brembo caliper, does anyone know the mount hole? because if it is not 140mm like our Ridgeline, it is not going to fit. Let alone the flex line needing to be longer. Though the Tesla S' caliper is trailing and the Ridgeline is leading, we can always work around it as the cross over tubes are outboard.

There are many 4-piston calipers in the market than can be adapted to work with the Ridgeline with a lot of R&D, but it all takes time. Trust me, I have tried and due to lack of resources and support, I went the Rotora way.
 

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If I’m not mistaken. 09+ had the factory engine upgrade. They did intervals. Like bigger valves and better manifold, etc…
 

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If I’m not mistaken. 09+ had the factory engine upgrade. They did intervals. Like bigger valves and better manifold, etc…
I dont consider variation of an engine as an upgrade.
The exhaust and intake valves, for instance are the same for both Ridgelines and the '06 fits the '20. You can find these in anything from the accords to Odysseys. Same applies to the intake manifold.
The later generation of the J series; the ones prior to the J35Ys, shared many parts across all J engines and also the time when basically all engines were 3.5L.
 

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In saying that, the 2010+ J35Z series of engine had a completely different camshaft and rocker assembly then previous J series engines. Not sure if Honda did it for performance reasons, but they are the heads that are used in HPD's turbo AR35TT V6 racing engines.
 

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Also same cylinder heads as used in HPD Baja Ridgeline and LMP2 race cars.... ;)
I believe that may have had to do with the engine homologation rule, though the Le Mans proptotype 2 class does not require any production minimum.
For Baja 500, class 7 (which the BAJA ridgeline raced under) was also something similar. 3.5L max for forced induction and the engine must be of the same mfg with a sealed unit. Though the cylinder heads are virtually the same, our Acura cousins did include Vtec on the exhaust on some models.
I imagine that for the sake of simplicity and already existing R&D units, the same heads were used on both the DPi, class that the ARX-05 raced in, and Baja trucks.

The point is that the J series is a stout unit and the HMA has proved it, including the use of a Ridgeline short block in its G4 Odyssey track car, many times over. It is truly sad that due to packaging constraints, there is no 'off the shelf' dedicated forced induction units for the truck. Looking at the G3 TL and my G1 Ridgeline, the Rotrex SC would also be a very tight fit for us.
 

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Only real room we have to move is up in our engine bay. Hence why I am going to try a top mount roots style SC. I thought about doing a 3 core 1/2 rad to allow for mounting of a turbo on the front bank. However there still isn't anything to allow for more room on the rear bank. Not keen on making a completely custom and elaborate over trans single turbo exhaust setup. Using a 3 core 1/2 rad might allow for the installation of a Rotrex SC?????
 

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The only turbo setup that may work is a remote mount, but it comes with its own packaging challenges.
I really wish CT sold it's patent to someone so we can have our hands on that one off top mount SC designed for the G1 from the start. Effin shame.
 

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The only turbo setup that may work is a remote mount, but it comes with its own packaging challenges.
I really wish CT sold it's patent to someone so we can have our hands on that one off top mount SC designed for the G1 from the start. Effin shame.
Be nice to have my hands on one of them right now. Oh well, I am going to try and fabricate an adapter plate using the OEM intake manifold cover mated to a ZZPerformance 3800 (M90) intercooler plate. Should be showing up this week. 🤞
 

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I cant seem to locate the plate you are referring to on their website. Is it cheaper and better alternative to the prank parts M90 adapter with methanol injection to lower the IAT?
 

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The ZZPerformance intercooler kit comes with pretty much everything you need for $800.


Where the Prank Adapter kit @ $600, doesn't come with the water/meth injection kit @ $200-$500. Prank kit + Water meth would be a bit more expensive to do it properly. All be it, it would be a pretty much bolt on kit, vs me having to fabricate the lower plate myself..... just my time really. I already have the aluminum plate left from other projects. Also, I have a gen3 blower freshly bult, not sure if that is a big deal but the Prank kit says it is for a gen5. I don't know the particulars of maiting surfaces or bolt patterns.

I am not going to say that the air to water intercooler setup is a better option vs water/meth. I think water meth is actually better at cooling and adding power. It's more that I would rather use an air to water setup just for the tuning simplicity. I only have to worry about extending the IAT wires and add a second IAT sensor under the heat exchanger in the intake manifold. No messing with a seperate injection and timing controller, I can do everything with KTuner.
 

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From a packaging and risk standpoint, water to air is the way to go and after much thought about it, I concluded that if I ever use forced induction, I would go that route few years back.
I agree that the PrankParts kit is ungodly expensive I am sure using the gaskets for the IC side and probably some creativeness on the plenum side, you can have an adapter plate done.

Now the new challenge is the belt size. With the IC and adapter plate, hope there is a belt that is longer than the ones used with the PrankParts kit.

On a different note, I think you need to breakdown the KTuner for me. I am very interested to see pictures, videos and just some basic write up of how you use it.
 

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From a packaging and risk standpoint, water to air is the way to go and after much thought about it, I concluded that if I ever use forced induction, I would go that route few years back.
I agree that the PrankParts kit is ungodly expensive I am sure using the gaskets for the IC side and probably some creativeness on the plenum side, you can have an adapter plate done.
100% it is really expensive for 2 pieces of aluminum plate. I understand that it is CNC but making the little guy pay for your overpriced machine is getting old now. I'd rather take the extra time to do it old school with a jig or band saw FFS.

Now the new challenge is the belt size. With the IC and adapter plate, hope there is a belt that is longer than the ones used with the PrankParts kit.
That is where I lay in wait. I need to get my final measurements and see whether or not I may have to run a secondary belt off a double pulley somewhere on the existing accessory assembly. If I look to run it off the existing accessory assembly it is going to be much longer.

On a different note, I think you need to breakdown the KTuner for me. I am very interested to see pictures, videos and just some basic write up of how you use it.
KTuner is like any of the other ECU/PCM GUI based Honda tuning software. I have to be honest I am no pro tuner, I am learning this shyte from reading books and watching vids myself. There isn't anything I am doing that is above and beyond what is already out there. If you have any specific questions I would be more than happy to try and help out. I am not much of a tutorial/video guy.Although I have seen some Youtube guys that make money and I have to shake my head...... I just don't have the time. ;)
 
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