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Persisting P0305 Misfire No. 5 Cylinder Issue

458 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Mattintosh
My 2007 Honda Ridgeline (208k miles) has been having a repeated check engine light for Cylinder Misfire.

First occurrence I started my car and put into reverse, which the car began to shake pretty hard. Put it into park and this stopped. Put back into reverse and issue re-occurred. Turned off car. Turned on car and vibration stopped.

First Trip to Mechanic (5/1/2023):
x6 Spark Plugs Replaced
No. 5 Ignition Coil

After the first trip, shortly after the engine light came back on the VTM 4 light intermittently occurring as well.

Second Trip to Mechanic (5/5/2023)
No. 4 Ignition Coil

Drove 300mi for a weekend road trip, engine light came on shortly into the trip. However, seemed to drive fine. Went to AutoZone and ran fix finder which gave the code P0305 for No. 5 cylinder misfire.

Third Trip to Mechanic (5/10/2023)
Valve Cover Gaskets Replaced
Intake Gaskets Replaced

Today (5/12/2023) engine light came back on after starting car and putting into reverse. Went to AutoZone once again and code showing P0305. VTM 4 light also has been intermittently illuminating.

Not sure what else it could be. Researching the forums sounds like maybe fuel injectors, but the guy at AutoZone thought that might be a longshot. Could it be something with the transmission since the VTM 4 light randomly comes on?

Going to call my mechanic again on Monday but wanted to see if anyone else has had similar experiences.
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What coils did they use? If ngk they had a bad batch
i am the misfire expert..read this…
worst case head gasket..still fixable..
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Exhaust Valves adjusted every 75k ? Last checked with the gasket and plug replacement(s) ?
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3
What coils did they use? If ngk they had a bad batch
i am the misfire expert..read this…
worst case head gasket..still fixable..
Alright have an update this morning.

Wanted to pull the ignition coils and swap positions to verify there wasn't an issue with the No. 5 coil which was already replaced. However, didn't get very far.

When I pulled the No. 5 ignition coil there was signs of oil, which I imagine is not a great sign. Where as the No. 6 had no signs of oil.

Any thoughts of what this means?

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O ring leaking around cover? Probably loosened up when mechanic replaced valve cver gasket…
carry on…
what brand coils do you have?
did you read my thread and great advice i got?
O ring leaking around cover? Probably loosened up when mechanic replaced valve cver gasket…
carry on…
what brand coils do you have?
did you read my thread and great advice i got?
Will have to check with my mechanic on Monday. Doesn't appear to be any part number listed or any brand markings.

Read most of it, a lot to unpack as I am still a rookie at most of this stuff. Planning to re-read it all again. But saw one of the main causes for your issue was bad coils from NGK. Doing some google searching it looks like NGK ignition coils have the brand markings, where as the ones I currently have don't appear to have any markings.
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That does not look like an excessive amount of oil to me. At 200K+ miles have your mechanic do a compression and leak down test - if those go well, you will have confidence that the internals of the engine are still solid... Then you can concentrate on any minor issues that may be causing the problem (e.g. "O" ring, etc)
Before you do anything else, check to make sure the spark plug is torque down.
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Continue to try movng coils and see if it follows misfire.
when you open your radiator, is the coolantall theway to the cap or 0.5 to 1 inch or so below tippytop?
any coolant loss?
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Continue to try movng coils and see if it follows misfire.
when you open your radiator, is the coolantall theway to the cap or 0.5 to 1 inch or so below tippytop?
any coolant loss?
Compression and leak down may not show anything with leaking head gasket.
On a car with 200K+ miles showing oil on the plugs; it could be valve guides/seals, oil cylinder ring or the like - these quick and simple tests can eliminate those as issues, takes all of 40 minutes.

THEN the owner can move on to other causes... I've been doing mechanical work since the 60's.
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Update: Bad Spark Plug on cylinder No. 5 resolved the issue for now.

Been about a week and a few hundred miles since the mechanic replaced the No.5 cylinder spark plug again. Said the tip was damaged, and after the replacement everything was looking good hooked up to the computer. He wasn't concerned about the trace amounts of oil in the ignition coil tube. Since the replacement there hasn't been any misfires and running like new. The spark plugs were not NGK.

Appreciate all the help. Before the 4th trip I did switch the ignition coils and the misfire did not follow to the No. 6 cylinder and remained in the No. 5.

Summary what was done:
All Spark Plugs Replaced (1st Trip)
No. 4 and No. 5 Coils Replaced (2nd Trip)
No. 5 Valve Cover Gasket and Intake Gasket Replaced (3rd Trip)
No. 5 Spark Plug Replaced again due to damaged tip (4th Trip)

Hopefully this resolves this issue once and for all.
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Thank you for following through to resolution!
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Update: Bad Spark Plug on cylinder No. 5 resolved the issue for now.

Been about a week and a few hundred miles since the mechanic replaced the No.5 cylinder spark plug again. Said the tip was damaged, and after the replacement everything was looking good hooked up to the computer. He wasn't concerned about the trace amounts of oil in the ignition coil tube. Since the replacement there hasn't been any misfires and running like new. The spark plugs were not NGK.

Appreciate all the help. Before the 4th trip I did switch the ignition coils and the misfire did not follow to the No. 6 cylinder and remained in the No. 5.

Summary what was done:
All Spark Plugs Replaced (1st Trip)
No. 4 and No. 5 Coils Replaced (2nd Trip)
No. 5 Valve Cover Gasket and Intake Gasket Replaced (3rd Trip)
No. 5 Spark Plug Replaced again due to damaged tip (4th Trip)

Hopefully this resolves this issue once and for all.
one easy old timer trick would be to have someone crank/start while observing the engine compartment in pitch black conditions (as close as possible)
those ignition sparks are high voltage, and will find ground.
good way to locate bad/loose cables, or other things grounding your spark.
i had a problem once where the vehicle wouldn't start after it rains . it was gunk around the coil that was only conductive after a rain .
but you could sure see where the spark was going
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Keep an eye on that #5 spark plug. And listen for the "tick of doom". That ticking is a death knell for your engine.

A few years ago, with right around 90k miles on my 2008 Ridgeline, I was driving down the highway in rush-hour traffic. I juiced the accelerator to pass someone, and the engine responded with "fwup-fwup-fwup" sounds and no power. I pulled over as all of the dummy-lights came on. Once stopped, steam rolled out from under the hood. But according to the dash instruments, the engine wasn't overheated.

I popped the hood, watched the radiator leak its contents onto the pavement, and then started looking into the chaos under the hood. It took me a while to realize that the hole in the front of the engine was where the #5 spark plug used to be. The plug was dangling by its wiring, tangled up in the remains of the radiator fan. The radiator had a hole in it where the spark plug hit it. The radiator fan was missing 3 blades. The #5 plug had stripped out and ejected from the engine, and the radiator fan had cut into its wires and shorted out a bunch of stuff.

$2500 to get the engine torn down, re-machined, and put back together with a full change of plugs. Another $1500 for the radiator. The shop only had it for 3 days and prioritized the repairs, since it's my daily driver. (It's a dealer shop, but not the dealer I bought the truck from.) The "tick of doom" was gone. It hasn't returned, and my mileage is now over 148k.

All of the advice I found on these forums at the time was that you had about a 50/50 chance of this happening to the 6-cylinder Honda engines in the Ridgeline, Accord, and various other vehicles, and that the engine design has had this flaw since the late 1990's.

From what I can tell, it's a heat-related issue. The (hot) exhaust runs directly under cylinder 5, causing hot and cold regions near each other in the engine block, in turn causing deformations. The most common case seems to be that spark plug #5 wiggles loose (which is that "tick of doom" sound... the plug is jumping around in its threads and pressure is escaping past it), but it can cause all kinds of other problems in that part of the engine.

Another nasty surprise I learned from these forums all those years ago: Honda will void your warranty and/or blame you for the engine damage if you do anything to try to fix the issue beforehand (E.g. you tighten your spark plugs), and most Honda dealers will usually refuse to touch spark plugs or do tune ups before the scheduled maintenance interval (90k miles) for this exact reason.
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