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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Took a look at the old radiator (battery on my phone had died so no pictures). Glad I swapped it when I did. While the connection "looked" ok before it was removed, it didn't take much of an effort to have these connections pull out of the housing.
And this makes the issue sound like dis-similar metal corrosion. Or did you note any corrosion at all?
 

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There was definitely galvanic corrosion occurring. Scary part was prior to removal (while it was installed) the corrosion was not that visible.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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Between the 1/8" of threads, and that the corrosion "looks" minor to non-existent, the whole issue can sneak up on uninformed owners
 

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Agreed. And since I got the radiator (and cap) plus the upper and lower hoses for about what Honda charges for a set of spark plugs...I'm thinking cheap insurance.
 
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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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And therein lies the false sense of security from eyeballing the external connection. Good lesson here. Just change out the radiator at the first TB/WP service, regardless what that connection looks like.
 

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About to replace mine with Denso.

any suggestions for hose brand. Right now was thinking AC Delco.

ordering from RockAuto.


thanks
 

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'08 leftover RTL loaded with 140K. Meticulously maintained. Most of threads I read dealers are blaming one of the connectors to the base of radiator as the root cause. I say BS. I will be ripping into the tanks of mine to see what ruptured inside this poor design. If you have a bad fitting you get a bad leak plain and simple. If you rupture an internal transmission line that is preheating trans fluid via engine coolant then you will get a Mixing of fluids. This needs to be a factory recall there is no doubt in my mind. My Dealer sold only 7 radiators in 10 years, but if your thinking like me why would I buy the same radiator that caused the problem. Hopefully the OEM one I put in has made one better. The dealer didn't even have a clue as to what to do to flush all this Crap out of the engine. The reddish milky substance has the consistency of greasy toothpaste. The best link so far was a diesel guy who used dishwasher detergent to emulsify this crap enough to flush it out. I spend 5 hours yesterday filling/ flushing gobs of goo out of the engine.
As a side note its a Miracle that 7 quarts of tranny fluid were being pushed into the system and thank god not being sucked back into the transmission.
After running it for 5 hours, I flushed the trans once again. A local mechanic says he has the ability to flush it the rest of the way. after adding the dishwasher detergent I will flush a few more times and then pass it off to him to give it the final flushing, to get the goop out of my heater core now.
If we were given at least the heads up that this was an issued I would have replaced the radiator, I am all about preventive maintenance. Beware HONDA A recall is gonna be haunting you.

So after taking the tanks apart, It was the faulty threads on the (Drivers side)fitting that gave way allowing coolant and the tank to not be compressed into the side of the tank. So this allowed transmission fluid to bypass the exchanger and push right through the system. I understand that this is no longer a "Feature" the new ones are equiped with.
 

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'08 leftover RTL loaded with 140K. Meticulously maintained. Most of threads I read dealers are blaming one of the connectors to the base of radiator as the root cause. I say BS. I will be ripping into the tanks of mine to see what ruptured inside this poor design. If you have a bad fitting you get a bad leak plain and simple. If you rupture an internal transmission line that is preheating trans fluid via engine coolant then you will get a Mixing of fluids. This needs to be a factory recall there is no doubt in my mind. My Dealer sold only 7 radiators in 10 years, but if your thinking like me why would I buy the same radiator that caused the problem. Hopefully the OEM one I put in has made one better. The dealer didn't even have a clue as to what to do to flush all this Crap out of the engine. The reddish milky substance has the consistency of greasy toothpaste. The best link so far was a diesel guy who used dishwasher detergent to emulsify this crap enough to flush it out. I spend 5 hours yesterday filling/ flushing gobs of goo out of the engine.
As a side note its a Miracle that 7 quarts of tranny fluid were being pushed into the system and thank god not being sucked back into the transmission.
After running it for 5 hours, I flushed the trans once again. A local mechanic says he has the ability to flush it the rest of the way. after adding the dishwasher detergent I will flush a few more times and then pass it off to him to give it the final flushing, to get the goop out of my heater core now.
If we were given at least the heads up that this was an issued I would have replaced the radiator, I am all about preventive maintenance. Beware HONDA A recall is gonna be haunting you.
Cause of failure is deeply debated. The bottom line here is the original Denso rad relies on 5 threads to clamp the heat exchanger to the bottom radiator tank.

OilToWaterExchangePort.jpg

More info here:

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/71-1g-problems-issues/123033-radiator-comparison-denso-spectra-osc-5.html
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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'08 leftover RTL loaded with 140K. Meticulously maintained. Most of threads I read dealers are blaming one of the connectors to the base of radiator as the root cause. I say BS. I will be ripping into the tanks of mine to see what ruptured inside this poor design. If you have a bad fitting you get a bad leak plain and simple. If you rupture an internal transmission line that is preheating trans fluid via engine coolant then you will get a Mixing of fluids. This needs to be a factory recall there is no doubt in my mind. My Dealer sold only 7 radiators in 10 years, but if your thinking like me why would I buy the same radiator that caused the problem. Hopefully the OEM one I put in has made one better. The dealer didn't even have a clue as to what to do to flush all this Crap out of the engine. The reddish milky substance has the consistency of greasy toothpaste. The best link so far was a diesel guy who used dishwasher detergent to emulsify this crap enough to flush it out. I spend 5 hours yesterday filling/ flushing gobs of goo out of the engine.
As a side note its a Miracle that 7 quarts of tranny fluid were being pushed into the system and thank god not being sucked back into the transmission.
After running it for 5 hours, I flushed the trans once again. A local mechanic says he has the ability to flush it the rest of the way. after adding the dishwasher detergent I will flush a few more times and then pass it off to him to give it the final flushing, to get the goop out of my heater core now.
If we were given at least the heads up that this was an issued I would have replaced the radiator, I am all about preventive maintenance. Beware HONDA A recall is gonna be haunting you.
This radiator design is not unique to Honda. Just fyi. Still a terrible design though. I believe the newer versions of the Denso radiator available from Rock Auto offer a superior design.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4722402&cc=1440502&jsn=361
 

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I have been smelling rad fluid lately when my truck is running warm. Is that consistent with what everyone else had for early warning signs? I am new to this forum but had my 2007 Ridgeline for about 2 years now. I am just sorting out some issues with the rear end after I smacked a curb but so far I love the truck. What all needs to be replaced? I like to do it myself.
THANKS
 

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Sheriff525 - denso radiator # 2213249 should be correct one for an 07 -will have new style stronger connectors and denso quality, also should change bottom hose clamp -when I did a friends 06 that bottom clamp was totally rusted out and not clamping at all. Also if your front motor mount is sloppy now would be an easy time to change it as when radiator is out you can get to bolts easy -only use oem mount -most others are junk -also need 1 gal honda blue coolent (just drain radiator not block -pretty easy job. If you are smelling antifeeze you might want to do this asap -at least look for signs of leakage near transmission cooler line connections and stop driving it if you see any -also check transmission fluid for signs of contamination& coolent overflow tank for same. Good Luck.
 

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I started smelling coolant last week after driving to work, too until the weekend to get the parts in.
2006, 155k, I live in Raleigh NC but the truck spent the first couple of years down at the coast so it isn't as rust free as I would like.

Got the radiator out tonight, when I went to remove the ATF line from it the connector broke right out of the radiator! I guess that could have easily been worse.
 

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I FINALLY MADE IT TO THE END OF THIS THREAD!!!!
Took me two days of reading, I just want to say thank you to all of you who have contributed to this forum to help those of us who are not as savvy as some of you, thank you for all of the time you have put in to diagnosing etc the problem with our possible radiator issues.
Fortunately I haven't had any issues but, at 145K miles, being the original owner and having moved to Washington State ( from Calif) recently I started to look at some of the possible things that could go wrong with the extra rain & snow. I will drive the truck less until it warms up some and will replace the radiator along with a few other items in need.
FYI most of the major things were done at the dealership when needed to include recalls.
Before I do this are there any requests for pictures of things that anyone may have missed?
Secondly roughy how long does it take to do the whole removal and install? I am a confident DIYer.

Thank you in advance!!

JASON
2006 RT
 

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I FINALLY MADE IT TO THE END OF THIS THREAD!!!!
Took me two days of reading, I just want to say thank you to all of you who have contributed to this forum to help those of us who are not as savvy as some of you, thank you for all of the time you have put in to diagnosing etc the problem with our possible radiator issues.
Fortunately I haven't had any issues but, at 145K miles, being the original owner and having moved to Washington State ( from Calif) recently I started to look at some of the possible things that could go wrong with the extra rain & snow. I will drive the truck less until it warms up some and will replace the radiator along with a few other items in need.
FYI most of the major things were done at the dealership when needed to include recalls.
Before I do this are there any requests for pictures of things that anyone may have missed?
Secondly roughy how long does it take to do the whole removal and install? I am a confident DIYer.

Thank you in advance!!

JASON
2006 RT
I just did mine last week with the help of friend, took us about hour and half but we also changed the thermostat and of course hoses as well, since we changed thermo you loose a little more fluid so used about gallon and quart for refill. Good luck with the change it's a small price to pay for something as important...
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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I did the first one with a friend, maybe 2hrs., didn't realize the radiator needed the foam for the top isolation/vibration protection, since I didn't have the part, I carefully cut the existing one off and rubber cemented it to the new radiator.

2nd one, about 4 hrs solo, but I also changed hoses for radiator, transmission fluid, both times did multiple DnF's on ATF and did other jobs when awaiting parts, ordered upper & lower hoses, got two uppers, didn't notice right away.

Soon I'll replace the heater hoses and thermostat, say in the next 25k or 3-4 years.
 

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Thank you Gentlemen, also on the other post too Carsmak!

Jason
 
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Bought this RL a month ago. Owner said the rad was changed which i see it was but i have rust on the actual line. Should i replace? I cant find what brand rad i have and if they sell this seperate!
 

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Those pics look like you have the double nut flare type connector which is the better/stronger type -rust on nuts is not necessarily a problem -best thing would be to try and determine radiator brand/part# to see if it is newer improved connections-looks like it-got to be a # on it somewhere.
 

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Thank you!


Those pics look like you have the double nut flare type connector which is the better/stronger type -rust on nuts is not necessarily a problem -best thing would be to try and determine radiator brand/part# to see if it is newer improved connections-looks like it-got to be a # on it somewhere.
 

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Orange/brown fluid on the garage floor under the radiator the last few days. At the dealer now. Changed the original radiator at 92k after the line failed while driving. 179k on it now. Moved to MN in 13 and they salt the **** out of roads here.
 
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