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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
By removing the dash tweeters in the steps below as pictured and install the after market tweeters, you will improve the sound of your factory system, you may notice not only clearer more defined sound but also find the bass even better once you complete these installation. You may have to splice wires or cut the connector, in my situation I did not need to do that, I would use bullet or spade connectors if needed leaving males on the wires and females on the factory tweeter connector assuming you will want to save them to install them if later you decide to sell your truck. The same thing for the new tweeter crossover wires I would crimp a female connector to each wire and plug them the to the factory wiring. You can find these connectors on Ebay or at your local Home Depot or Lowe's.


Factory Wiring Color Code for the front speakers and tweeters

BLUE Front passenger door speaker (+) Right tweeter (+)
RED Front passenger door speaker (-) Right tweeter (-)

LT GREEN Driver’s door speaker (+) Left tweeter (+)
PURPLE Driver’s door speaker (-) Left tweeter (-)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
More pictures here, and on the one above shows the the size of tweeter that will fit on the cover. Pictured are the Hertz Tweeters that are part of the Hertz DSK165 component system. Some tweeters can be modified, by removing the grill, by removing the grill there will be less obstruction and more sound. Most components speaker systems come with a single crossover for both bass and highs. These Hertz Speakers have a separate crossover for the bass driver and and tweeter and since it was small I was able to install them in the dash. Most purchased separate tweeters will not have a crossover/box as big to prevent it from fitting in this area.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The wire supplied by Hertz is about 18 or 20 gauge, thin enough to just snap it in the factory connector, I used tape to hold it felt secured enough inside each plug, I put tape to keep moisture out and secure it a bit more, if you feel you need to use spades, use them. The wire and the crossover small box (pictured) fits in the hole and I just put it in there as the picture shows.

I am sure almost any after market set of tweeters will be a huge improvement once installed, and most if bought separately will have a small enough crossover or capacitor to fit in that area. You may also use glue to bond the tweeter or some sort of double sided tape, I just used electrical tape and even it comes off the tweeter will not fall in the other whole where the wiring is. My advice is, use your judgement in your installation process.

Enjoy! I hope this info helped it is easy and simple. Ask questions here or PM me if you want to. :act035:
 

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excellent, I'm getting ready to do this myself. Looks pretty straight forward. Did you secure the small crossover to anything? concerned it will rattle.
 

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I still have the parts waiting for install. By the way, if you have other tweeters and fit is a concern, you can order 2 more plastic Honda grills for about $5 online. Modify them as needed and still keep the stock one if you screw up or want to put it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
excellent, I'm getting ready to do this myself. Looks pretty straight forward. Did you secure the small crossover to anything? concerned it will rattle.
Good observation!
I have not heard anything yet, maybe because the bundled extra wire works as a hook in the path to keep the small box from moving, and since it needs to go in the hole, it maybe hard to secure it inside the hole due to the extra space needed

I think it is hanging or sitting on the bottom, i just pushed it down in the hole, just make sure the insulated spade connectors are tight and secured.

The factory wiring is stiff and wrapped with tape, and it helps to keep the whole thing from moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I still have the parts waiting for install. By the way, if you have other tweeters and fit is a concern, you can order 2 more plastic Honda grills for about $5 online. Modify them as needed and still keep the stock one if you screw up or want to put it back.
Good to know, just in case a good deal is found on some tweeters that wiil not fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What brand/model tweeters did you use?
I bought the hertz dieci dsk165 component speakers with separate tweeters and 6 1/2 bass drivers that I still need to install.

What made it possible was that each driver comes with its own small crossover, unlike most other brands or models. I think these tweeters can be purchased separately the model is DT16

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/
 

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Good to know, just in case a good deal is found on some tweeters that wiil not fit.
It's nothing to Dremel off the plastic to make other Tweeters fit, and then just glue them into place! :act035:
 

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I have an extra set of tweeters sitting in a box right now that I never installed in any vehicle. They came as a free accessory when a buddy of mine purchased a set of speakers for his Dodge last spring. He didn't want them and just gave them to me. I'm not sure of the brand, but I do know the specs are likely MUCH better than what the stock tweeters have. They also have an inline passive crossover "box" like these Hertz's. I'm planning on getting a true component set sometime in the near future, but just putting in a new set of tweeters might be better in the interim. Thanks for the detailed instructions and pics, laserguy!
 

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Good to know, just in case a good deal is found on some tweeters that wiil not fit.
Also, I've noticed the ones I have will just fit but the tweeter is below the top surface of the grille. I am thinking of opening it on top so the dome of tweeter can stick up above the grille. Not sure it that will make any real difference, since the sound likely just bounces of the windshield anyway, but if it radiates in all directions it might help some.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Also, I've noticed the ones I have will just fit but the tweeter is below the top surface of the grille. I am thinking of opening it on top so the dome of tweeter can stick up above the grille. Not sure it that will make any real difference, since the sound likely just bounces of the windshield anyway, but if it radiates in all directions it might help some.
It really depends on the manufacturer, I would just try them just as I have mine and if You do not hear enough highs or significant improvement, maybe driil a hole and top mount them, many manufactureres include different plates for flush or top mount and angle mounting also, mine came with all those options and plates.

DONT FORGET THAT THEY NEED TIME TO BREAK-IN OR LOOSEN UP FOR BETTER SOUND!
 

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You know, I'm actually thinking of mounting some tweeters in or on the sail panels. I think I'll mainly be looking to do this when I replace the fronts with a component set, but I'm just trying to figure out a good way to mount them. I've seen that there really isn't enough room between the back of the panel and the door frame to flush mount them, and I think surface "stick on" mounting would look sort of dumb. What sort of options do I have other than maybe fiberglassing them into the stock sails?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
You know, I'm actually thinking of mounting some tweeters in or on the sail panels. I think I'll mainly be looking to do this when I replace the fronts with a component set, but I'm just trying to figure out a good way to mount them. I've seen that there really isn't enough room between the back of the panel and the door frame to flush mount them, and I think surface "stick on" mounting would look sort of dumb. What sort of options do I have other than maybe fiberglassing them into the stock sails?
Me too Ian, when I add a new HU, I will end up mounting them on the window sail or plastic triangle, because it is a lot of work to fish new wire or also remove the dash to tap into the factory wire just to mount them on the dash.

Most of the RL members with component speakers mount them on the top of the sail plastic triangle and just drill a hole to feed the wires and screw the back plate to hold it and do not look bad at all, just more noticable. usually better response but it can be too bright for some and like I mentioned before it depends on the brand.
 

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If you use the window sails, many tweets come with screw on bezels.. the bezel is just a big plastic nut that holds the tweeter in place. Probably looks like factory fit after they are together. You just need a hole in the sail big enough for the body of the tweeter to go through. As lg said, many come with adapters for various types of mounting. You want it to look good, but make it easy on yourself too.
 
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