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Went with the Infinity Reference 1031t's from Amazon.
Thanks Deuce!

I was leaning towards the JBL but was interested in how the Infinity tweeters sound? One member stated that the JBLs sound "bright". How do you like yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #242 (Edited)
Its always good to know what brand and model was used and the initial reaction of the SQ, our ears may react different, my guess is that there might not be much difference between the infinity and the jbl they are made by the same company one thing titanium tweeters are famous for is reproducing metal sounds like cymbals and similar way better than dome type tweeters
 

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laserguy,

thanks for your input. I'm a total dunce about auto stereo so your explanation helps clarify things for me.
 

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The sound is an amazing improvement. It sounds like a different system. They are also very bright, like the JBL's and the crisps of the music really show what was missing.

I did use everything that was included. Read that someone here didn't use the crossovers and it still was an improvement. There is lots of room to fit them into the dash, I just cut the leads down to make things more managable.

There are highs in all music so whatever your listening preferences, these replacements should be a real improvement. I wonder what the woofer replacements would sound like??
 

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My JBLs have been broken in for a while now. They sound even better now with my new hearing aid........:act035:
 

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Discussion Starter #246
:cheerleader::cheerleader::cheerleader:

Bass also improves with the upgrade since the sub and speakers no longer compete with the awful factory tweeters. It is a complete change just like if all speakers were upgraded, all the boomy dull sound is gone, better highs and lows.

Mine also sound much better compared to when I first install them. +1+2 is the usually the max treble adjustment for some material
 

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I just installed the Cadence ZRS75T tweeters. They definitely improve the sound quality, even with the stock HU.

I didn't bother with a crossover because Cadence didn't include any in the package. They still sound better than the factory tweeters.
 

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Discussion Starter #248
I just installed the Cadence ZRS75T tweeters. They definitely improve the sound quality, even with the stock HU.

I didn't bother with a crossover because Cadence didn't include any in the package. They still sound better than the factory tweeters.

Great thanks for sharing! :cheerleader:
Is it possible that the cap is housed behind the unit?

Any pics
 

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I wonder what the woofer replacements would sound like??
As cheap as these OEM (door woofers) speakers are, they are probably tuned to the truck, so changing them might not work out as hoped for, like the tweeter change does.

Technically you should get better bass, but you may not be able to play them as loud!

At least with the OEM Sub, it's not too bad.
 

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Hey Gooch12 - my Cadence tweeters will be here today. How did they fit and how did you stick 'em to the grill?

I just bought my brand-new '06 RTS with 76k miles on it ten days ago (it really is in mint condition). As I was driving it home, I called my wife and told her that I thought something was wrong with the stereo!

By the way, if anyone is looking for the Hertz components, there are two DSK165s and one DSK130 on eBay.
 

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As cheap as these OEM (door woofers) speakers are, they are probably tuned to the truck, so changing them might not work out as hoped for, like the tweeter change does.

Technically you should get better bass, but you may not be able to play them as loud!

At least with the OEM Sub, it's not too bad.
Makes sense.. Thanks, I'll save some coin then.
 

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Hey Gooch12 - my Cadence tweeters will be here today. How did they fit and how did you stick 'em to the grill?

I just bought my brand-new '06 RTS with 76k miles on it ten days ago (it really is in mint condition). As I was driving it home, I called my wife and told her that I thought something was wrong with the stereo!

By the way, if anyone is looking for the Hertz components, there are two DSK165s and one DSK130 on eBay.
Don't know how the Cadence units work, however the Infinity's fit rather snugly into the existing housing and I simply used electrical tape to ensure that they wouldn't fall out. Doesn't get easier than that!
 

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Discussion Starter #253 (Edited)
As cheap as these OEM (door woofers) speakers are, they are probably tuned to the truck, so changing them might not work out as hoped for, like the tweeter change does.

Technically you should get better bass, but you may not be able to play them as loud!

At least with the OEM Sub, it's not too bad.
You may be right, but I got the original drivers to rattle with some material at high volumes.

I could not say for sure because I already installed my hertz mid drivers on the F doors and Polk db 651 on rear, but I put sound deadening material on 4 doors and did not have a chance to listen to them until I put the deadening material and the difference is huge, I would say the Polks sound slightly better than the factory ones but not a lot, my hertz front drivers have way better clean and responsive bass if I put my hand on the grill I get a massage on my hand and even my arm on the arm rest I feel the bass strong and fast, while the Polks have not impress me at all, perhaps the sound deadening limitations the rear doors have or maybe the speakers need more time to open, but I think I gave them a good run, I will try to give an update if I notice changes, I even put my head down to have my ears at that level, I noticed higher volume with the rear seats up, but the fronts just deliver way better punchy bass and louder music than the rears.

12/22 Update I think that since the front speakers are wired in parallel with the tweeters from the factory, the front draw more power from the HU, not to say Polk speakers are very inferior than the Hertz. The big difference is made by 3 factors. 1. One db higher in spl. 2. Sound deadening limitations on the rear doors keeping them from being able to get a good seal. And 3. The parallel wiring in the front speakers draw more power making them much louder, and also the rears being lower and the seats blocking more sound.
 

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Don't know how the Cadence units work, however the Infinity's fit rather snugly into the existing housing and I simply used electrical tape to ensure that they wouldn't fall out. Doesn't get easier than that!
The Cadence speakers fit loosely in the factory grills. I added a strip of rubbery tape that is about 1/8" thick and then they fit snugly. I used electrical tape to hold everything in place.
 

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Great thanks for sharing! :cheerleader:
Is it possible that the cap is housed behind the unit?

Any pics
The stock speakers have the crossover circuit attached to the speakers themselves. Take a look at the pictures posted by HoldenS6: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=599738&postcount=204

It looks like HoldenS6 broke off the crossovers from the stock speakers and then wired them into the circuit with the Cadence speakers. I considered doing that but I ran out of motivation. I was going to do it if the resulting sound quality was bad.

As for pictures, mine looked almost exactly like the pictures posted by Rambunctious here, except that mine are Cadence speakers and I added electrical tape: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=603089&postcount=216

Riding around listening to them today, they are quite bright and I had to reduce the treble setting to a comfortable level. Overall, it's much better than the stock speakers. It was a good upgrade for $30.
 

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Discussion Starter #256
The stock speakers have the crossover circuit attached to the speakers themselves. Take a look at the pictures posted by HoldenS6: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=599738&postcount=204

It looks like HoldenS6 broke off the crossovers from the stock speakers and then wired them into the circuit with the Cadence speakers. I considered doing that but I ran out of motivation. I was going to do it if the resulting sound quality was bad.

As for pictures, mine looked almost exactly like the pictures posted by Rambunctious here, except that mine are Cadence speakers and I added electrical tape: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=603089&postcount=216

Riding around listening to them today, they are quite bright and I had to reduce the treble setting to a comfortable level. Overall, it's much better than the stock speakers. It was a good upgrade for $30.

Is it possible that those cadence tweeters come apart and a small cap can be found inside the little speaker, maybe I asked this question again and I am being too lazy to remember it if it was answered pages before this one.
 

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Is it possible that those cadence tweeters come apart and a small cap can be found inside the little speaker, maybe I asked this question again and I am being too lazy to remember it if it was answered pages before this one.
I don't think they come apart, at least not easily. If there is a capacitor in there, I wouldn't want to bust open a tweeter to look for it.

However, I'm looking at the instruction sheet that came with them. They show three wiring configurations. For systems that produce up to 100W per channel, the tweeter should be wired in parallel with the main speaker for the channel. For systems that produce up to 140W per channel, the instructions say to add a 15 ohm 20 watt resistor in series with the tweeter. For systems that produce up to 200W per channel, the instructions say to install a pair of tweeters in series and then put the pair in parallel with the main speaker.

The instructions don't mention the addition of a crossover filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #258
I don't think they come apart, at least not easily. If there is a capacitor in there, I wouldn't want to bust open a tweeter to look for it.

However, I'm looking at the instruction sheet that came with them. They show three wiring configurations. For systems that produce up to 100W per channel, the tweeter should be wired in parallel with the main speaker for the channel. For systems that produce up to 140W per channel, the instructions say to add a 15 ohm 20 watt resistor in series with the tweeter. For systems that produce up to 200W per channel, the instructions say to install a pair of tweeters in series and then put the pair in parallel with the main speaker.

The instructions don't mention the addition of a crossover filter.
Great info thanks for sharing it.
 

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I finished my Cadence $29 tweeter install yesterday. My wife, who claims to be tone-deaf, noticed the difference immediately.

Here are the specs from the Cadence website for the ZRS-75T, which mentions the passive crossover:
• RMS Power: 100 Watts
• PEAK Power: 200 Watts
• Frequency Response: 5 kHz – 22 kHz
• Sound Pressure Level: 97dB @ 1w/1m
• Mounting Depth: 0.75”
• Built-In Diffuser and Step Up Transformer Coil for High Power and Extreme SPL
• Complete Pair with Built-In 6dB Crossovers, Flush, Surface, and Angle Mounts

As for the install itself, I found that 10 wraps of electrical tape around the body of the tweeter made a perfect press-fit. To make sure they stayed in, I added a couple of turns of tape overlapping the grill receptacle and speaker.

The connection was the biggest pain because I didn't want to cut my factory connectors off or tap into the wires. I eventually found a ten-pack of crimp-on .10 male circuit board pins for less than $2 at Fry's electronics. I crimped and soldered a pin onto each tweeter wire and covered the connection with shrink tubing. They fit the factory tweeter connector perfectly.

After I get my rear set leg "at ease" and my homemade trunk dividers and floor installed, my next project will be to figure out what mid-range speakers will go into the front doors. I wonder if there is one from Cadence with a mid-band crossover that will complement the Cadence tweeter?

If anyone is interested in making your own passive crossovers, here is one of several very helpful websites, complete with illustrations and calculators: http:http://www.bcae1.com/passxovr.htm.

Thanks to the prior 25+ pages of previous posts for the inspiration to make this cheap, simple and quick improvement!
 

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Discussion Starter #260
I finished my Cadence $29 tweeter install yesterday. My wife, who claims to be tone-deaf, noticed the difference immediately.

Here are the specs from the Cadence website for the ZRS-75T, which mentions the passive crossover:
• RMS Power: 100 Watts
• PEAK Power: 200 Watts
• Frequency Response: 5 kHz – 22 kHz
• Sound Pressure Level: 97dB @ 1w/1m
• Mounting Depth: 0.75”
• Built-In Diffuser and Step Up Transformer Coil for High Power and Extreme SPL
• Complete Pair with Built-In 6dB Crossovers, Flush, Surface, and Angle Mounts



As for the install itself, I found that 10 wraps of electrical tape around the body of the tweeter made a perfect press-fit. To make sure they stayed in, I added a couple of turns of tape overlapping the grill receptacle and speaker.

The connection was the biggest pain because I didn't want to cut my factory connectors off or tap into the wires. I eventually found a ten-pack of crimp-on .10 male circuit board pins for less than $2 at Fry's electronics. I crimped and soldered a pin onto each tweeter wire and covered the connection with shrink tubing. They fit the factory tweeter connector perfectly.

After I get my rear set leg "at ease" and my homemade trunk dividers and floor installed, my next project will be to figure out what mid-range speakers will go into the front doors. I wonder if there is one from Cadence with a mid-band crossover that will complement the Cadence tweeter?

If anyone is interested in making your own passive crossovers, here is one of several very helpful websites, complete with illustrations and calculators: http:http://www.bcae1.com/passxovr.htm.

Thanks to the prior 25+ pages of previous posts for the inspiration to make this cheap, simple and quick improvement!
Good to know and thanks for sharing the info and the link. :cheerleader:
 
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