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Discussion Starter #401 (Edited)
I would just give them at least 20 hrs to break them in, listening at high vol levels when new is not a good idea, you start low and never max volume the first 15 hours at least.

I tend to disagree, if you spend over $300 on a set of components that can handle up to 150watts per speaker, like rainbows, jbl like a gti 608 mkIi or even hertz hsk series or better and power them with 80watts rms, you would have a hard time complaining about their sound quality. Quality recordings is the key, and quality well tuned instruments. Some issues you come across with certain types of music, but there are exceptions, you can't blame the music, blame the sound engineer producer or use of crappy quality or bad tuned instruments, and sometimes the low skills playing the instrument combined or not and you will get a bad result.
 

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with regard to break in, I'll wait and see. I think it is just a system limitation. All of the recordings I mentioned are stellar. While not a fair comparison, all of those recordings sounded amazing on my old trucks system which had an Alpine head unit, MRP-F450 amp and Diamond comps. The Diamonds were very neutral and everything sounded good on them, even old mediocre recordings. I think the stock Honda system w/ the Infinity tweeters sounds good when not pushed too hard. For the extra $40, I am happy with the improvement that the tweeters offer. They will hold me over until I can afford a better head unit, more power and better drivers... I'm debating between the Pioneer AVH-P4400BH and the Kenwood DDX-419. I see lots of love for the Pioneer on the ROC, anyone have experience with the Kenwood? Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #403
The factory HU has a volume limiter, once you start going over 33 you will have to lower the bass and terbble to hear it louder without distortion and still not get the best sound from it.
 

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That is good to know. I noticed that sq starts to deteriorate around 25. You are a fountain of knowledge LG. Where did you find that info? Don't say the owers manual :homer: doh!
 

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Discussion Starter #405
Thanks! That has been discussed here before Archi, in fact there was a member that said he was able to fix it or correct it and had a thread about it, I asked him to post the link or share how he did it but he never did.

I think your tweeters will sound better and will open up more after more use.

The RL has a big space inside and needs good tweeters and power to fill the larger than average cabin with sound that is loud and gives more headroom and range.
 

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My JBL GTO18T's arrived. I took out the old tweeters but the wires are clipped in below the dash. I don't want to pull too hard in case I break something. Should I just cut the wires at the old tweeters and leave the old crossovers in place (discard the JBL crossovers), or should I pull a little harded to get the wires free?
 

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My JBL GTO18T's arrived. I took out the old tweeters but the wires are clipped in below the dash. I don't want to pull too hard in case I break something. Should I just cut the wires at the old tweeters and leave the old crossovers in place (discard the JBL crossovers), or should I pull a little harded to get the wires free?

The JBL's have a red and black wire. Is the red + and the Black - ?
If so would this be correct?

Red from tweeters to Blue of RL Pax side +
Black to Red -

Red from Tweeters to Light Green Driver side +
Black to Purple -

Can I do damage if I mix up the + and - ?
 

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What I did was replace the stock caps (xovers) with a couple a larger ones from Parts Express, but the same 'value' as the Honda OEM.

I did this for three reasons:
1) The replacement cap is of better quality (non-polarized caps)
2) The OEM were too small and leads to short to get an adequate connection without soldering additional wires.
3. Replacement caps were still small enough to fit under the tweeter grill.

I just soldered the cap in series with the lead for the + terminal of the tweeter, (like the stock).

I think it is important (but not critical) to use the same value so the stock door speaker crosses over at the same frequency. Although I do doubt this is a difference you would readily hear.
Nonetheless, it was not that hard for me to do it that way.

Now, if you eventually plan to replace the door speakers would you use the same xover again or select a different one? If you could get the same driver designed to pair up with the JBL tweeters you are using, then by all means use the JBL crossover.
There may be different opinions on this, I say gather as much info as you can then select the best option for yourself.

Keep the polarities (+ / -) the same as the original wiring (on both tweeters of course).
 

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So I started the install of the JBL GTO18T's. Tried pulling the wires out through the tweeter opening on the dash but the wires were tied down.
Removed the glovebox and can see the wires but it seems there is no crossover. I followed the wires till they disappeared into a larger bundle and from there who knows. Should I just add the crossovers that came with the JBL's and assume there has been a change in the 2011's. Or if the oem crossovers are hidden will it hurt to add more?

The pics shows the view with the glovebox removed. The orange handled screwdriver on the right is touching the tweeter wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #410
So I started the install of the JBL GTO18T's. Tried pulling the wires out through the tweeter opening on the dash but the wires were tied down.
Removed the glovebox and can see the wires but it seems there is no crossover. I followed the wires till they disappeared into a larger bundle and from there who knows. Should I just add the crossovers that came with the JBL's and assume there has been a change in the 2011's. Or if the oem crossovers are hidden will it hurt to add more?

The pics shows the view with the glovebox removed. The orange handled screwdriver on the right is touching the tweeter wires.
Blue and green are +, red and black on aftermarket speakers are always + red and neg black. The xovers for the factory tweets are built in each tweeter, no need to find them just connect them with the new drivers and xovers in the dash, you may want to use a paper clip to go in the connectors or similar idea then solder or crimp a bullet or butt connector to extend and have more room to work with.
 

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Paying for lifetime membership in this club is definately on the cheap side when one considers all the valuable advice redily available by such great guys as LaserGuy and RollinHonda. I seem to be saying thanks alot to these guys lately. When I removed my glovebox I found when the antennae is stuck inside the window in front of the pax tweet, so it wasn't a dead loss. :)
Thanks again guys!
 

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Either use the existing or the JBL crossovers..one or the other, not both!
 

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Discussion Starter #413
What I meant to say was that once you remove the factory tweeter, you remove the xover since it is built in it.

Purchased tweeters should come with their own capacitor/crossover/highpass/bass blocker. Here is the pic of the factory one showing the cap on the bottom.
 

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Here's how I installed my JBL GTO18T's...

I removed the center piece from one of the supplied mounting rings. The tweeter is held in this mount with a quarter turn. I then super glued it in place to the factory grills. (At $6 each these grills are cheap to replace if needed in the future). Huge improvement in sound quality. Definitely a 15 minute job if I had to do it again, and didn't spend 30 minutes looking for the old crossovers, which were attached to the stock tweets :)

Tools needed: Credit card to remove grills, Super Glue, Wire strippers, Pliers, insulation tape, and 16 gauge Butt Connectors.

Attached the wires like this....

Driver side: RL Green + to Tweeter Red +, RL Purple - to Tweeter Black -

Pax side: RL Blue + to Tweeter Red +, RL Red - to Tweeter Black -
 

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Great job! Everyone has a little different twist, with all the same good results. So did you use the JBL crossovers? You realize you just raised the value of your Ridgeline by having JBL components.
 

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Great job! Everyone has a little different twist, with all the same good results. So did you use the JBL crossovers? You realize you just raised the value of your Ridgeline by having JBL components.
Yes added the crossovers and ordered some JBL GT6-6 speakers for the F+R doors. So my RL is worth $49 more today than it was yesterday...that's cool :act006:
 

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And the improvement in listening pleasure is priceless!
 

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Discussion Starter #418
Yes added the crossovers and ordered some JBL GT6-6 speakers for the F+R doors. So my RL is worth $49 more today than it was yesterday...that's cool :act006:
Great :cheerleader: thanks for sharing your pictures, give us an update and opinion on the JBL speaker upgrade, those are very efficient and should deliver louder volume.

Did you end up cutting the tweeter factory connectors?
 

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Great :cheerleader: thanks for sharing your pictures, give us an update and opinion on the JBL speaker upgrade, those are very efficient and should deliver louder volume.

Did you end up cutting the tweeter factory connectors?

When I first installed the JBL's I had them wired incorrectly (+ - opposite what it should have been), and without the crossovers. They sounded like bad radio reception. So yes all factory connectors were cut, and connections are butt connectors now.

After taking your advice I added the crossovers and fixed my wiring mistake. The clarity is amazing. I'm hearing percussion instruments I hadn't heard before in my RL. I use a Zune MP3 player through the Aux input for my jazz collection. And to think it will improve over time.

I plan a head unit upgrade in the future for HD radio and Nav.
 

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WOW, what a difference $41.73 can make. Ordered the Infinity 1031t's. Received them and installed yesterday. Took less than 30 minutes. Mounted the speakers using the foam/tie-wrap method previously pictured. Snipped the OEM wiring clip off, stripped back the wires and twisted/taped to the new wiring with crossovers installed. Tucked in the wiring and popped the covers back down. VERY simple. Van Halen pops again. So does Pink Floyd. Can turn it up to enjoy the bass and still have the highs shine through. Going to let them break in before really testing them, but this mod makes a noticeable and undeniable improvement over the OEM tweeters. Thanks to laseguy for the GREAT tip!
 
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